Superior Models 
Their Operation 
and Care 



General Motors Export Company 
224 West 57th Street 

New York, New York 



















Superior Models 
Their Operation 
and Care 


Second Edition 


General Motors Export Company 
224 West 57th Street 

New York, New York 
U. S. A. 






















A WORD TO THE CAR OWNER 


T HE increasing use of motor vehicles in places far removed from 
repair shops, or even expert advice, has clearly demonstrated the 
great need for complete, carefully planned instruction books, 
books that adequately cover the routine matters of car operation and 
care, and also the more involved adjustments and repairs, ordinarily 
not discussed. The city motorist has also been demanding a book of 
this character; and in presenting this departure from the former type 
of instruction book it is hoped the wants of both classes of motorists 
are met. 

The degree of success encountered in the use of a motor car— 
regardless of price or kind—is a direct result of and in direct propor¬ 
tion to the thought and effort expended in caring for that car; it there¬ 
fore rests with the car owner to do the things recommended, or to see 
that they are done. In this respect, it is imperative that one fact be 
continually borne in mind: The motor car is essentially a piece of 
machinery; even more than this—it is a piece of very fine machinery, 
one that is often subjected to services for which it was not designed; 
it is only the great factors of safety incorporated in motor car design 
that save it from destruction. 

Like any other piece of machinery however crude or fine, the 
motor car requires certain care along certain well established lines at 
certain definitely fixed intervals; given this care, reliability at all 
times is assured. Nowhere is the adage a stitch in time saves nine 
more significant or pregnant with meaning than with respect to a 
motor car. So true is this that careful attention to the details of 
routine care is to a motor car what preventive medicine is to protec¬ 
tion against disease; in short, it is an absolute necessity. 

Fortunately, the amount of labor to care properly for a car is not 
great; it is in fact far less than one would think. Even so small a 
period as one hour a week of conscientious, intelligent effort by the 
owner-driver, or his chauffeur, will secure the results both he and the 
car manufacturer desire—and can have. 

In compiling this book and in placing it in the hands of the car 
owner it is not intended that it shall be regarded as a cure-all for, or 
an encyclopedia of, motor car ills. Rather should it be regarded as 
operating to prevent these ills by applying common sense methods to 
the care and operation of the car. 

It is suggested that the car owner first familiarize himself with 
the contents of the book and then make a careful study of the parts 
devoted to the driving of the car and its routine care. He will find a 
very serious attempt has been made to detail when and how and with 
what to carry out these operations. Let his efforts, then, be in keep¬ 
ing with what the manufacturer has done and thereby ensure his 
retaining what he buys—a satisfactory car. 

The manufacturer has already done his part; the distributor has 
shared the responsibility by delivering the car in first class condition 
and stands ready with expert service; the balance rests with the car 
owner, for in the final analysis it is he that is the master of his car’s 
fate. 




•V 


CONTENTS 


PART ONE 


SOME SUGGESTIONS ON DRIVING AND OTHER MATTERS 

CHAPTER I Things to do on receiving the car 

CHAPTER 11 Suggestions on driving 

CHAPTER 111 Notes on lubricants, fuels, water, soaps, polishes, etc. 


PART TWO 

ROUTINE CARE OPERATIONS 


CHAPTER I 

CHAPTER II 
CHAPTER III 
CHAPTER IV 
CHAPTER V 
CHAPTER VI 


Daily operations to be carried out before taking the car 
from the garage 

Operations to be carried out weekly 
Operations to be carried out fortnightly 
Operations to be carried out monthly 
Operations to be carried out quarter-yearly 
Operations to be carried out yearly 


PART THREE 


THE COMPONENTS OF THE CAR— 

THEIR CONSTRUCTION, FUNCTION, AND ADJUSTMENT 


CHAPTER I 

The engine 

CHAPTER II 

The clutch 

CHAPTER III 

The transmission 

CHAPTER IV 

The propeller shaft and universal joint 

CHAPTER V 

The rear axle and differential 

CHAPTER VI 

The brakes 

CHAPTER VII 

The front axle 

CHAPTER VIII 

The steering gear 

CHAPTER IX 

The springs 

CHAPTER X 

The frame 

CHAPTER XI 

The cooling system 

CHAPTER XII 

Lubrication 

CHAPTER XIII 

The carburetor and fuel system 

CHAPTER XIV 

The starting and lighting system 

CHAPTER XV 

The storage battery 

CHAPTER XVI 

The ignition system 

CHAPTER XVII 

The tyres 

CHAPTER XVIII 

Rims and wheels 

CHAPTER XIX 

The bodywork and car equipment 

CHAPTER XX 

The car in dead or winter storage; putting the car in 
commission 

PART FOUR 

CHAPTER I 

What good roads mean to the motorist 

CHAPTER II 

General specifications 

" 

INDEX 


PART ONE 

SOME SUGGESTIONS ON 
DRIVING and OTHER MATTERS 

IT IS USUALLY BOTH UNNECESSARY 
AND UNWISE TO DRIVE AT TOP SPEED. 
CAREFUL DRIVING IS ECONOMICAL, 

SAFE, COMFORTABLE DRIVING. 

REMEMBER YOUR FELLOW MOTOR¬ 
IST. HIS RIGHTS TO THE ROAD ARE 
EQUAL TO YOURS. AND DON’T EVER 
FORGET HE DOES NOT KNOW WHAT 
YOU ARE GOING TO DO; PROTECT 
YOURSELF BY NOT TAKING IT FOR 
GRANTED THAT HE WILL ALWAYS DO 
THE RIGHT THING. 

























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MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


7 


CHAPTER I 

THINGS TO DO ON RECEIVING THE CAR 

Most factories in preparing a motor car for shipment drain the cooling 
and fuel systems, and sometimes even the engine lubricating system, also. A 
final examination of the car and its equipment is also made, during which every 
care is taken to ensure each item being in accordance with specifications. 

Despite these efforts, however, many things happen to a car and its 
equipment in the course of a long journey from the factory It is necessary, 
therefore, that the buyer, to safeguard his own interests on receiving the car, 
observe certain precautions with respect to the above mentioned matters. 

It often happens that a car is delivered to the buyer ready for use. In 
such a case, matters are greatly simplified so far as personal labor of the buyer 
is concerned, but it is still highly desirable for him, for his own protection, 
thoroughly to inspect the car, its components, and equipment before putting 
it into service. If the car is to be run any distance—for example, from the 
distributors place of business to the owner’s residence, he may well go over 
the car personally with the distributor. 

Lest the buyer feel the manufacturer is emphasizing this period of a car’s 
life in a manner disproportionate to its true value, let him remember that the 
importance of this period, as well as that of the first 1,000 miles (1,500 km.) of 
use, can not be too strongly emphasized. The treatment and care a car 
receives during these two periods determine with unfailing accuracy its 
condition when it will have run 10,000 miles (15,000 km.) as no other things, or 
series of things, can. 

Equipment —First, examine the car and its equipment. See that the 
proper complement of tools is present; that the circulars pertaining to the 
various accessories are included; that the extra demountable rim or spare wire 
wheel, tyres, etc., are on hand; that the various lamps are complete and in 
working order; in short, that all specified equipment has been delivered. See 
that the car and engine numbers correspond to those in the distributor’s 
bill of sale or contract. 

Tyres —Examine the tyres and note whether the air pressure is at the 
required figure (see chapter XVII, part three); if a spare tyre is included in 
the car’s equipment, see that it, too, is fully inflated. 

Water, Fuel, Oil —Open the fuel shut-off cock between the vacuum tank 
and the carburetor; the cock is open when its handle is turned down—toward 
the ground. Fill the fuel tank. Fill the oil pan to the proper level, as shown 
on the oil level gauge (see fig. 5). Fill the radiator with clean water; after 
the engine has run a few minutes, it may be possible to add more water. (See 
chapter III, part one, for oil, grease, fuel, and water specifications.) 

Examine the gear box and rear axle to ascertain if the oil in these parts 
is at the level of the filler plug holes; if below this level, add sufficient oil to 
bring it to the proper height. 


8 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Grease —Fill all lubricators with grease (see fig. 4 for their locations). 
Remove the hub caps from the front wheels and see that there is sufficient 
grease present; the bearings should be well covered with grease and the hub 
caps quite full. Securely replace the hub caps. 

Storage Battery —Examine the storage battery to see that the electrolyte 
is at the right level and test the electrolyte with a hydrometer to determine if 
it is of the proper density, i. e., whether the battery is fully charged (see chapter 
XV, part three, for details). 

It is good practice at this time to give the storage battery a freshening 
charge—i. e., to charge it for a short time, so as to increase the specific gravity 
of the electrolyte to 1.280 to 1.300. 

It is important to make certain the storage battery is firmly clamped in 
place, as a loose battery is easily injured by the severe jolting it is subjected 
to when the car is in motion. 

Battery Cables —The battery cables (heavy wires) should be firmly 
attached to their respective terminals on the battery; if corrosion is noticed, 
in which case the terminals will be a bright green and covered with a whitish 
salt, disconnect the cables and thoroughly clean them and the terminals, and 
then securely reconnect them (see chapter XV, part three, for details). 

License Data —Data on horsepower, size of engine, wheelbase, etc., will 
be found in chapter II, part four. 

Before undertaking any operation on your car, be absolutely cer¬ 
tain you know how to handle that operation; if you are in any degree 
uncertain, study the details of that operation before attempting any 
part of it. 

Before lubricating any part of your car, thoroughly remove all 
dirt or other foreign matter from the lubricators, filler caps, or plugs, 
to prevent the lubricant from carrying such dirt or foreign matter 
into the part you wish to lubricate; clean the fuel tank filler cap 
before removing it when filling with fuel. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


9 


CHAPTER II 

SUGGESTIONS ON DRIVING 

Before attempting to start the engine of a new car, or one that has been 
out of service for any protracted period, see that fuel is in the carburetor. 

Starting the Engine—1. Before starting the engine, set the hand 
brake by pulling back on the hand lever as far as it will easily go. 
Next, see that the gearshift lever is in the neutral position, i. e., in 
that position in which it can be readily moved from side to side but 
not from front to rear. 

2. Move the spark and throttle hand levers to the starting position (Left, 

fig* 1). 



Left—Starting Position of Spark and Throttle Levers 
Right—Running Position of Spark and Throttle Levers 

A. Throttle hand lever B. Spark hand lever 

3. Pull the carburetor choke rod nearly all the way out (see page 11). 

4. Turn on the ignition by inserting the key into the ignition switch, 
pressing in on it and turning it one-quarter to the left or right. 

5. Firmly press down on the starting button with the foot, holding it 
thus for twenty to thirty seconds, when the engine should start. Immediately 
release the button, and do not again press it whilst the engine is in operation 

If the engine should not start, release the starting button and note whether 
the controls are in their proper position; if all appear in order, try again, 
using the starter as directed above. Should the engine still fail to start, see 
chapters I, XIII, XIV, XV, and XVI, part three, for causes and remedies. 















10 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 2. Driving Compartment 


1 Throttle hand lever 7 

2 Spark hand lever 8 

3 Instrument-lamp 9 

4 Ignition and lighting 10 

switch 11 

5 Speedometer 12 

6 Ammeter 13 


14 Brake hand lever 


Oil pressure gauge 
Clutch pedal 
Brake pedal 
Accelerator pedal 
Starter pedal 
Foot rest 
Gearshift lever 


Hand Cranking —In certain cases, as when there is no storage battery 
in the car or because the starter does not operate properly, it may be necessary 
to use the starting crank to start the engine. Set the carburetor choke, ignition 
switch, and spark and throttle levers as above. Insert the starting crank into 
the opening in the dust shield beneath the radiator, pushing in on it and turning 
it until the starter jaws engage, and then sharply pull up. Unless the person 















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


11 



1 Throttle hand lever 5 Ignition and lighting 

2 Spark hand lever switch 

3 Instrument-lamp 6 Speedometer 

4 Carburetor choke 7 Ammeter 

8 Oil pressure gauge 

carrying out this operation is thoroughly experienced in hand-cranking an 
engine, he should under no circumstances push down on the starting crank, 
as serious personal injury might result. Remove the starting crank after 
starting the engine. 

Cold Weather Starting—A cold engine requires a richer mixture, both 
for starting and running, than a warm or a hot one; moreover, an engine heats 
more rapidly with such a mixture. It is necessary, therefore, in starting a 
cold engine, to pull out the carburetor choke rod a distance proportionate to 
the degree of cold. Moderately low temperatures require that the choke rod 
be pulled out only part way, whilst a lower one is met by pulling the choke 
rod as far out as it will come. This latter position, however, must be most 
judiciously used, because then practically all the carburetor air supply is 
shut off; the choke rod should therefore be slightly pushed in after the engine 
has been cranked a few revolutions to obviate the possibility of too rich a 
mixture, which would prevent ready starting. It is best, when starting in 
very low temperatures, to keep moving the choke rod all the way out and 
partly in whilst the engine is being cranked, thus preventing the accu¬ 
mulation of unvaporized fuel in the inlet manifold and cylinders. 

A cold engine requires a rich mixture for starting; a hot engine, 
a lean one. 















12 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Carburetor Choke Running Position—As soon as the engine has 
started, push the choke rod in, though not enough to cause back-firing or 
materially to reduce its speed. Pushing the choke rod in produces a lean 
mixture and may cause the engine to stop running, or, at best, to run with 
but little power. The choke rod, therefore, should be pulled out a certain dis¬ 
tance and the engine run until it is well heated, when it should be pushed all 
the way in. See chapter XIII, part three—Carburetor Air Regulator, 
Adjustment of the Carburetor, and Formation of Carbon; and chapter 
XII, part three—Crankcase Dilution. 

Position of the Spark and Throttle Hand Levers—As soon as the 
engine has started, immediately remove the foot from the starting button and 
move the spark and throttle hand levers to the running position (Right, fig. 1) 
their normal positions when the engine is in operation. Do not let the engine 
race—run at a high rate of speed, as this is injurious to a degree. 

Accelerator and Throttle Hand Lever—Variations of the engine speed 
—and therefore of its power—are obtained by means of a throttle valve 
in the carburetor, the control of this valve being incorporated in both the 
accelerator and the throttle hand lever. The normal position of the accelera¬ 
tor is that of the closed throttle, being held in this position by a spring; 
hence, when the accelerator is relieved of foot pressure, the throttle auto¬ 
matically closes. 

The function of the throttle hand lever (A, fig. 1) is to limit the mini¬ 
mum speed of the engine and also to vary the engine-speed through its entire 
range. The car can be driven, that is, its speed controlled, by manipulation of 
either the throttle hand lever or the accelerator, but the driver will find use of 
the latter more convenient, as it leaves both hands free for steering and other 
things. During long and uninterrupted running on high gear, however, it may 
prove more comfortable to use the throttle hand lever and thus prevent tiring 
the foot and ankle; its use when passing over stretches of rough road, also, is 
advantageous in that it makes possible control of the engine speed, and hence 
of the car speed, at a steady rate. 

Spark Hand Lever—The spark hand lever’s (B, fig. 1) function is to 
vary the point at which ignition occurs in the cylinders; manipulation of this 
part advances or retards the ignition (makes it late or early) as may be desired 
by the driver. 

The best position for the spark hand lever is that point slightly beyond 
which the engine will pound or pink. As a general rule, the spark should at all 
times be kept as far advanced as possible—even when the engine is idling 
(throttled down), but not to the extent of causing the engine to pound or labor 
through the ignition being advanced too far. A well advanced spark makes for, 
in conjunction with the throttle, maximum speed and power and coolest 
running; a retarded spark makes for the least speed and power, an overheated 
engine, increased fuel consumption, rapid carbon formation—in short, high 
operating costs 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


13 


Oil Pump —As soon as the engine has started, slightly increase its speed 
to ascertain if the lubrication system is functioning properly, and then close 
the throttle to the idling position. If no or little pressure—not. less than 2 
pounds (0.14 kg.) is the correct figure—is shown on the oil pressure gauge, it 
may be taken as evidence of improper action of the lubrication system, and 
the engine should be immediately stopped to determine the cause. 

Driving —It is suggested that before attempting to drive the car on a 
road the novice study and practice the various movements involved in gear- 
shifting and in clutch and brake manipulation, as well as those of the spark 
and accelerator controls, with the engine running but the car at rest. 

This paradox is simple of accomplishment. Jack up one or both rear 
wheels of the car, taking care thoroughly to block both front and rear sides 
of each front wheel, using heavy stones or wooden blocks for the purpose; it is 
essential that the rear axle be prevented from slipping off the jack, as might 
happen when the rear wheels are rotating. Jacking up one or both rear 
wheels in this manner permits running the engine and driving the rear wheels 
and is therefore a simulation of conditions encountered whilst actually driving 
the car on a road. (The differential—a part of the rear axle mechanism—makes 
this possible; see chapter V, part three.) 

Shifting the Gears —The novice should .take his place in the driver’s 
seat and familiarize himself with the position and manipulation of the various 
control members, actuating them (with the engine at rest) until he has secured 
a certain degree of familiarity with their location and movement. At this 
period of his experience he should not work the controls with a view to his 
possible actions when confronted with any particular emergency he may have 
in mind, but rather in the light of merely acquainting himself with their 
positions and movements with relation to his own. 

See that the gearshift lever is in the neutral position. Start the 
engine and allow it to run until it is well heated. Do not forget to 
push in the choke rod as soon as possible. 

Release the hand brake by pulling back on the lever, at the same 
time pressing in the latch in its upper end, and then, holding the latch thus, 
pushing the brake lever as far forward as it will go. 

First Speed —Disengage the clutch—the large, left hand pedal—by 
pushing it forward with the left foot as far as it will go. Wait five or ten seconds 
and then, firmly and steadily, move the gearshift lever as far to the left and 
then to the rear as it will go—to the first or low speed position. 

If difficulty is experienced in moving the gearshift lever into first speed, 
shift it back to neutral and engage the clutch by gently releasing the pressure 
on it. This will cause the transmission gears to rotate and thus facilitate 
meshing the teeth of the gears you have been trying to shift. Disengage the 
clutch as before and shift to the first speed position—to the left and back; 
in all probability no difficulty will be experienced, due to the now changed 
positions of the gear teeth. 


14 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Slowly and gently engage the clutch, at the same time very slightly 
pressing on the accelerator with the right foot to increase the speed of the 
engine. Power is now being transmitted from the engine to the rear wheels; 
and were they on the ground instead of jacked up, the car would move ahead. 
Increase the speed of the engine by adding to the pressure on the accelerator. 



Gearshift Diagram 

A First speed C High speed 

B Second speed D Reverse 


Second Speed—The next step—that of shifting into second or inter¬ 
mediate speed—should be carried out firmly and without any hesitation. Re¬ 
lease the pressure on the accelerator, so that the engine will not race. Dis¬ 
engage the clutch and quickly move the gearshift lever from first speed to 
second: forward, to the right, and then as far forward as it will go. The move¬ 
ment should be positive and fairly quick, with no hesitation at any point, 
otherwise the gears will grind (a destructive condition, and one to be avoided 
whenever possible). 

As soon as the gearshift lever is in the second speed position, engage the 
clutch, letting it come back gently, but more quickly than in first speed, and 
then slightly speed up the engine by pressing down on the accelerator. 

Third Speed—Third speed (top gear) is obtained in the same manner 
as second. Release the accelerator; throw out the clutch; pull the gearshift 
lever straight back into third speed; gently but rapidly engage the clutch; 
then increase the speed of the engine to the desired amount, as shown on the 
speedometer, by pressing down on the accelerator—say, to fifteen miles (25 
km.) an hour. 





MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


15 


Shifting Down—Shifting down is accomplished in a similiar fashion, 
though the movements of the gearshift lever are reversed; moreover, the 
shifts are more rapidly made than when shifting up. Care must be taken, 
however, in shifting from third to second, and particularly from second to 
first, that the speed of the rear wheels (actually, the speed of the car) be 
reduced, otherwise the gears will be badly ground. 

APPROXIMATE CAR SPEEDS AT WHICH TO SHIFT GEARS 

Shifting up: First to second..5 miles an hour (8 km.) 

Second to third..8-12 miles an hour (12-18 km.) 

Shifting down: Third to second..15 miles an hour (25 km.) 

Second to first..4-2 miles an hour (7-3 km.) 

Reverse—Shifting into reverse is accomplished in precisely the same 
manner as shifting into first—to the left and then forward, but under no 
circumstances should this be attempted whilst the rear wheels are 
turning (the car moving ahead), or the transmission will be badly damaged. 

Practice—Practice shifting the gears—from first to second and second 
to third, and then back to neutral, not forgetting to try the reverse speed 
occasionally, also. Get accustomed to the interrelation of the clutch and 
gearshift lever movements and of the accelerator. 

Don’t look at the levers or pedals; in any event, you can’t see them on 
a dark night, so be guided only by the sense of touch. Let some one talk to 
you; carry on a conversation on a subject far removed from the one in hand; 
in this manner one can quickly learn to handle the various controls sub¬ 
consciously—the ideal to strive for. Then, when you feel equal to it, try out 
your driving ability on the road, but choose one comparatively free from traffic. 

IP Slipping the Clutch—Many people are prone to slip the clutch, par¬ 
ticularly when attempting to climb a steep hill on top gear. This practice 
should be avoided as much as possible because it promotes rapid wear of the 
clutch lining and causes it to become hard and glazed, resulting eventually 
in a harsh clutch; wear of the clutch release bearing occurs, also, thus aggravat¬ 
ing this disagreeable condition. Slipping the clutch to avoid changing into 
a lower gear is poor driving; better hill climbing and improved economy and 
longer life of all parts of the car are always possible through judicious use of 
the various gears. 

Riding the Clutch—The practice of riding the clutch—driving with the 
left foot resting on the clutch pedal—is likewise bad; see page 73 for further 
remarks on this subject. 

Stopping the Car—The car is stopped by application of the brakes, 
but it is possible to stop, or at least to retard its speed, by other means. The 
foot brake—the large right hand pedal—is most frequently used, not because 
it is more powerful but because it is more convenient; the hand brake is 
employed mainly when it is desired to hold the car for a long period at a 
standstill. 






CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


20 19 8 9 



1 Steering knuckle pivots. 

2 Water pump and fan 

shaft 

3 Valve rockers 

4 Front wheel bearings 

5 Steering gear connect¬ 

ing rod 


Fig. 4. Points 

6 Steering knuckle tie- 

rod pins 

7 Steering gear 

8 Spring leaves 

9 Spark and throttle con¬ 

trols 

10 Ignition distributor 
shaft 




























































































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


17 


14 13 12 9 8 7 6 5 A 1 



.3 17 16 15 11 10 8 6 5 4 


/ubricate 

11 Generator rear bearing. 

12 Engine oil filler 

13 Brake rod-ends 

14 Transmission oil filler 

15 Starter motor bearings 

16 Clutch release bearing 


17 Gearshift lever bearing 

18 Brake hand lever bear¬ 

ing 

19 Brake shaft bearings 

20 Rear spring bushings 

21 Rear wheel bearings 
Rear axle oil filler 
































































































18 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


It is best to use the brakes as little as possible, in order to reduce the 
wear to a minimum. In making any but an emergency stop, close the throttle 
—either accelerator or throttle hand lever, disengage the clutch, and let the 
car coast and thus lose its speed, using either the foot or the hand brake to bring 
it to a halt only if necessary. This practice is most advantageous in that it 
reduces wear of the tyres and the brake linings, as well as of certain other 
parts of the car’s mechanism. A quicker stop can be made by disengaging the 
clutch and, holding it thus, shutting the throttle and pressing forward on the 
foot brake, varying the degree of pressure to meet the needs of the case. 

Emergency Stops —Never bring the car to a standstill as quickly as 
possible except in an emergency, as this practice is very trying to its various 
parts. To stop in the minimum time, it is necessary merely to press the clutch 
and brake pedals as far forward as they will go and at the same time strongly 
to pull back on the hand brake lever. The maximum braking effort—both 
brakes being in use—is thus exerted; and as it is possible under these con¬ 
ditions to lock the wheels, due care must be taken to apply sufficient pressure 
to the brakes only to retard the motion of the wheels and not actually to stop 
them, otherwise the tyres will be injured by sliding along the road. A car can 
be stopped more quickly with the wheels rotating than with them 
locked. 

Always release the accelerator or shut the hand throttle before disengaging 
the clutch and applying the brakes. Just before the car comes to a complete 
halt, release the brakes to prevent the disagreeable jerking that would other¬ 
wise follow. Before taking the foot from the clutch, move the gear lever 
to the neutral position; if the stop is to be of any duration, set the hand 
brake; stop the engine, also, to save fuel and oil. 

Descending Hills and Braking with the Engine —It is not necessary 
nor is it good driving or conducive to long life of the brake linings exclusively 
to use the brakes in descending even a steep hill. When properly handled, 
the engine exerts a very powerful braking effort with no wear of the brake 
linings. 

In descending any ordinary grade, therefore, it suffices merely to close the 
throttle to ensure running at a moderate rate of speed, but in this case the 
clutch is not disengaged nor are the gears shifted to neutral or to a lower gear. 
This practice is sufficient for most hills; but if the slope is steep and the driver 
has any doubt about checking the speed of the car with third speed engaged, 
he should, before beginning the descent, shift to second or even to low; in 
the latter position he will find he has a very powerful brake. 

In running down a hill in this manner, the ignition should not be 
turned off, as such practice will very likely cause a destructive explosion in 
the muffler when the ignition is turned on again at the bottom of the hill. 

Coasting —In driving, one frequently encounters a hill not steep enough 
to use the engine as a brake and yet too long to coast down with the clutch 
held disengaged by the foot because of the personal discomfort attendant to 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


19 


such an operation. Furthermore, it 'is desirable to avoid holding the clutch 
disengaged when the car is in motion or the engine in operation for any longer 
period than is absolutely necessary, in order to minimize wear on the clutch 
release bearing. In such a case, move the gearshift lever to the neutral position 
and engage the clutch, the car coasting; if the speed becomes higher than 
desired, reduce it by a slight application of either the hand or foot brake, 
alternating in their use, if the descent is very long, to avoid undue heating of 
either. 

Gearshifting in Coasting —When the bottom of the hill has been 
reached, do not shift into high gear in the ordinary manner, for the gears would 
then be badly ground. Check the speed of the car to 10 to 12 miles (15-20 km.) 
an hour and then shift; if grinding then results, or if any difficulty is experienced, 
do not continue to attempt to make the shift, but reduce the speed of the car 
still more. 

If, when coasting down a hill with the clutch engaged and the gears in 
neutral, the engine should stop, do not under any circumstances attempt to 
shift into high or any other gear until the engine has been started or the car 
brought to a complete stop; violation of this precaution will seriously injure 
the gears. 

Stopping on a Hill —In stopping on a hill, a careful driver will, in addi" 
tion to setting the hand brake, turn the front wheels to the curb or to the 
side of the road, to prevent the car from rolling down the hill should the brake 
be inadvertently released; or he will block the wheels. Some drivers shift the 
gears into the first speed position after the brake has been applied and the 
engine stopped, thus further ensuring against the car rolling down the hill, but 
this practice is not altogether to be recommended; it is far too easy for one to 
forget, when starting the engine, that the gears are in first speed, and an 
accident might therefore result. Such practice is, however, a safeguard against 
movement of a car when it is halted for any period on a hill, but if it is 
resorted to it should be followed cautiously and carefully. 

Starting on a Hill —To start the car on an up-grade, shift into first 
gear. Gently engage the clutch, as in making an ordinary start, but increase 
the engine speed by means of the accelerator rather more than when starting 
on the level, at the.same time releasing the hand brake; simultaneously en¬ 
gaging the clutch whilst releasing the hand brake prevents the car from rolling 
backward, and if the operation is skilfully carried out the car should move 
forward gradually and smoothly. 

Another method is very similar. When disengaging the clutch, prepara¬ 
tory to shifting into first speed, apply the foot brake and then release the hand 
brake, holding the car from rolling backward by means of the former. Increase 
the engine speed by means of the throttle hand lever slightly more than when 
starting on the level. Gently engage the clutch, as in making an ordinary 
start, and at the same time gradually release the foot brake. 

In shifting into second speed, and then, if the hill is not too steep, into 


20 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


top, increase the speed of the car considerably more than when shifting from 
first to second on the level. The clutch should be more quickly engaged after 
shifting than when on the level; the throttle should be opened farther, as 
more power is needed to drive the car up hill than along a level road. 

Hill Climbing —On coming to a steep upgrade, speed up the car as much 
as road and traffic conditions permit, in order to rush the hill. Press the 
accelerator down to the floor board if necessary, so as to obtain the maximum 
power of the engine, but if a pounding—a distinct thumping—is heard in the 
engine, or a light pinking, it is an indication the spark is advanced too far 
and should be somewhat retarded; if the pounding persists after retarding 
the spark, shift into second speed, or even into first. Move the spark hand 
lever toward the retard position (front or top of sector) until the thumping 
or pinking ceases, retarding the spark to its limit if necessary. Do not forget 
to advance the spark again as soon as road conditions permit. 

It is wise, when approaching a hill which may prove too much for the car 
to climb on high gear, to shift into second speed at the bottom, or even into 
first, if any doubt is felt, rather than to be forced to make the shift into a 
lower gear whilst on the hill. 

Mud—Sand—Snow —It is advisable to drive the car in somewhat the 
same manner when negotiating deep mud or sand, rather than to risk being 
mired, as might easily happen whilst shifting to a lower gear in the middle 
of such a stretch. One should not, of course, speed through deep mud or 
sand, or even snow, as the result might be disastrous, due to uncertain steering 
under such conditions, but every effort should be made to keep the speed of the 
car at as high a rate as the bad stretch will permit in order to avoid the ever¬ 
present possibility of the speed decreasing—as it undoubtedly will—to such an 
extent that the car will come to a complete stop, when it might prove impossible 
to start it again without assistance. 

In any stretch of heavy going, the spark and throttle should be handled 
in the same manner as when climbing a steep hill. The throttle should be 
kept as wide open as road conditions permit and the spark gradually retarded 
when any pounding is heard. 

Steering —Most beginners are prone to steer too much; they move the 
wheel too far in steering. This is true of straight running as well as—and more 
particularly—when rounding a turn. Only a very slight movement is necessary 
to keep the car on a straightaway. When turning a corner, a greater movement 
of the steering wheel is required, but the beginner generally turns the wheel 
too far and experiences considerable difficulty in straightening out, after 
making the turn, as a result. Round the turn slowly and move the steering 
wheel just enough to follow it; little difficulty will then be encountered in 
resuming a straight course. 

Skidding —Skidding is one of the bugbears of motoring. Of course, 
skidding does occur and is frequently fraught with really serious conse¬ 
quences to a car and its occupants, but, on the whole, danger of skidding is 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


21 


overemphasized out of proportion to its importance because it is easily 
prevented. 

Modern non-skid tyres prevent skidding to a very high degree, but com¬ 
plete—or practically complete—insurance against it can be had through the 
use of non-skid chains. In bad weather or on slippery roads use chains on 
both rear wheels; it is a wise practice to use at least one chain on the front 
wheels, also, particularly when running in snow. Incorrectly adjusted chains 
damage tyres (see chapter XVII, part three). 

A car generally skids on the rear, although it sometimes happens that it 
skids on the front wheels, also; in addition to skidding on either front or rear 
wheels, a car may skid on all four. Skidding of the rear of the car is generally 
caused by too severe an application of the brakes or attempting to make too 
fast or too sharp a turn when on a slippery road surface; or skidding may result, 
even on a dry surface, by taking a turn at too high a speed. Brakes—especially 
unequalized brakes, that is, brakes holding more strongly on one wheel than on 
the other, are the most prolific cause of skidding. 

In attempting to stop quickly on a slippery road the rear of the car will 
tend to swing to the right or left and to the front. The remedy for this con¬ 
dition is immediately to release the brakes and to turn the steering wheel 
in the direction the car is skidding, checking the speed by very gently reapplying 
the brakes. Application of the brakes with the clutch engaged—very gently 
and carefully made—generally prevents skidding when stopping on a slippery 
road, but this should be most carefully done lest the transmission mechanism 
be injured; it should be resorted to only in an emergency. 

Skidding on the front of the car or on all four wheels is difficult or even 
impossible to correct. Only a highly skilled driver is capable of meeting such 
a situation. Fortunately, however, such skidding is rare and usually results 
from the driver’s rash handling of the car; a careful driver need never fear 
being forced to face such a possibility. 

The First 500 Miles —It is impossible too strongly to emphasize the 
importance of the first 500 miles (1,000 km.) of any car’s life, be that car of 
the cheapest and crudest or the most expensive and finest. The treatment a car 
receives and the character of the service it is subjected to during this period are 
the two basic factors that predetermine the condition of that car when it will 
have run 10,000 or 20,000 miles or more. 

Under a powerful microscope a beautifully polished metal surface will be 
found to consist of a series of minute irregularities. During the wearing-in proc¬ 
ess a car is subject to in the first 500 miles (1,000 km.) of use these irregularities 
are broken or worn down, so that finally an actually smooth surface is obtain¬ 
ed. Tiny particles of metal are broken or worn from the moving parts and 
accumulate in the oil which lubricates them, necessitating frequent changing of 
the oil. If the speed at which these surfaces move is unduly high for their condi¬ 
tion, excessive friction and, consequently, excessive wear must result; the life 
of the car is proportionately shortened and cost of upkeep likewise increased. 


22 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


There are but two things to guard against during this period; 
Excessive speed and careless or insufficient lubrication. 

Excessive Speed—The car owner is strongly urged not to drive his car 
at a higher rate of speed during the first 500 miles (1,000 km.) than the 
following: 

On high speed..25 miles an hour (40 km.) 

On second speed.. 15 miles an hour (25 km.) 

On first speed. 5 miles an hour (10 km.) 

Change the Oil —During the first 500 miles (1,000 km.) of use, drain 
the oil pan and refill it with fresh oil of the proper grade at the end of each 
250 mile (500 km.) period; change the oil in the transmission and rear axle, 
also, but only after the first 500 miles (1,000 km.) have been covered, and 
thereafter as recommended in chapter IV, part two. 

In carrying out these operations, the owner is referred to chapters I, III, 
V, and XII, part three, and is earnestly requested implicitly to adhere to 
these further instructions, as well as to those relative to routine care in part two. 





MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


23 


CHAPTER III 

NOTES ON LUBRICANTS, FUELS, 

WATER, SOAPS, POLISHES, ETC. 

Which Oil —Correct lubrication is not ensured merely by driving to a 
garage and asking for a quart (litre) of oil. When an oil or a grease is needed, 
the car owner or driver should ask for it by name, specifying the desired grade, 
and then make certain he gets what he asks for. The subject is far too im¬ 
portant, and, in the long run, too expensive if carelessly handled, to rely on 
another’s judgment, not because that person may be dishonest but because 
he may be careless and lacking in a proper conception of what the wrong 
lubricant may, and very likely will do, to some part of your car. 

It has been the policy of many factories in the past in recommending an 
oil for the engine or other parts of the car to designate that oil as light, medium, 
or heavy. Recommendations of this nature leave the car owner in total 
ignorance of just what is meant with respect to the proper lubricant. To meet 
these conditions, the Research Division of General Motors Corporation has 
devoted much time and effort and has gone to not a little expense to deter¬ 
mine the right lubricant necessary to meet any particular lubrication problem, 
their findings being given herein for the benefit of the car owner. 

Engine Oil —The following specifications are those of an engine oil the car 
manufacturer recommends for summer use: 

ENGINE OIL, MEDIUM 

(Spec. No. A-30, General Motors Corp.) 

1. GENERAL: The lubricant specified herein must be a properly 
refined and filtered petroleum oil, free from water, acid, sediment, 
resins, soaps, or other compounds not derived from petroleum. 

2. FLASH POINT: Shall not be below 385° F. (196° C.). 

3. FIRE POINT: Shall not be below 425° F. (218° C.). 

4. VISCOSITY: At 100° F. (37.8° C.) shall be between 270 and 330 
seconds Saybolt Universal. 

5. CARBON RESIDUE: Shall not be over 0.5% (Conradson). 

7. COLOR: No. 5 N. P. A. 

8. POUR TEST: Shall not be above 3 5 ° F. (1.67 °C.). 

9. CORROSION: The oil shall not corrode any metal used for machine 
construction. 

Transmission and Differential Oil— The following specifications are 
those of a transmission oil suitable for use in the transmission and differential 
in summer months: 

TRANSMISSION OIL 

(Spec. No. A-15, General Motors Corp.) 

1. GENERAL: The lubricant specified herein must be a properly 
refined and filtered petroleum oil, free from water, acid, sediment, 
resins, soaps, or other compounds not derived from petroleum. 


24 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


2. FLASH POINT: Shall not be below 460° F. (238° C.). 

3. VISCOSITY: At 210° F. (99° C.) shall be between 140 and 160 
seconds Saybolt Universal. 

4. POUR TEST: Shall not be over 60° F. (15.6° C.). 

5. PRECIPITATION NUMBER: 1.0 C.C. 

6. WATER AND SEDIMENT: 0.5%. 

7. CORROSION: The oil shall not corrode any metal used for machine 
construction. 

Winter Oil —The following specifications are those of a transmission oil 
suitable for use in the transmission and differential in winter months: 

TRANSMISSION OIL 

(Spec. No. A- 9, General Motors Corp.) 

1. GENERAL: The lubricant specified herein must be a properly 
refined and filtered petroleum oil, free from water, acid, sediment, 
resins, soaps, or other compounds not derived from petroleum. 

2. FLASHPOINT: Shall not be over 325° F. (162.7° C.). 

3. VISCOSITY: At 210° F. (99° C.) shall be between 80 and 100 
seconds Saybolt Universal. 

4. POUR TEST: Shall not be over 10° F. (-12.2° C.) 

5. PRECIPITATION NUMBER: 5.0 C. C. 

6. WATER AND SEDIMENT: 0.5%. 

7. CORROSION: The oil shall not corrode any metal used for machine 
construction. 

Engine Oil —The following specifications are those of an engine oil the 
car manufacturer recommends for winter use: 

ENGINE OIL, MEDIUM 

(Spec. No. A-030,* General Motors Corp.) 

1. GENERAL: The lubricant specified herein must be a properly 
refined and filtered petroleum oil, free from water, acid, sediment, 
resins, soaps, or other compounds not derived from petroleum. 

2. FLASH POINT: Shall not be below 340° F. (171 ° C.). 

3. FIRE POINT: Shall not be below 385° F. (196° C.). 

4. VISCOSITY: At 100° F. (37.8° C.) shall be between 270 and 330 
seconds Saybolt Universal. 

5. CARBON RESIDUE: Shall not be over 0.3% (Conradson.) 

6. POUR TEST: Shall not be over 0° F. (—17.8° C.). 

7. COLOR: No. 5 N. P. A. 

8. CORROSION: The oil shall not corrode any metal used for machine 
construction. 

Note— The references to "summer” and "winter” apply to localities in 
which temperature variations above and below 30° F. (-1° C.), respectively, 
are experienced. In warmer climates, where the temperature does not go 
below 30° F. (-1 0 C.), the oils recommended for summer may be used during 
the winter season. 

* This specification may be used in summer, also. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


A Substitute Winter Oil —During cold weather, difficulty is experienced 
in the use of ordinary transmission oils, particularly in the transmission, due to 
the tendency of the oil to solidify. This condition causes difficult gearshift- 
ing; channeling occurs, also, that is, the gears in revolving cut channels or grooves 
in the solidified lubricant, and lubrication of the gear teeth and bearings is 
therefore impossible. It is suggested that the following mixture be used in 
winter months in the transmission or differential to obviate this difficulty: 


10° to 0° F. 

(-12° to-18° C.) 

0° to -10° F. 

(-18° to -23° C.) 

-10° to -20° F. 

(-23° to -28° C.) 
Lower temperatures 
than -20° F. (-28° C.) 


Use a mixture of 27% zero cold test engine oil 
and 73 % transmission oil 

Use a mixture of 50% zero cold test engine oil 
and 50% transmission oil 

Use a mixture of 73% zero cold test engine oil 
and 27% transmission oil 

Use a mixture of 27% kerosene and 73% trans¬ 
mission oil 


The following list includes a number of oils that meet the several oil 
specifications contained herein:* 


Gargoyle, Mobiloil Arctic (A-030) 
Gargoyle, Mobiloil “C” (A-15) 
Monogram, Medium (A-30) 
Polarine, Medium (A-30, A-030) 
Polarine Transmission, Summer 
Polarine Transmission, Winter 
Sunoco, Medium (A-030) 

Texaco, Medium (A-030) 

Veedol, Medium (A-30) 


Vacuum Oil Company 

New York Lubricating Co. 
Standard Oil Company 

Sun Oil Company 
Texas Oil Company 
Tide Water Oil Company 


Cup Grease —Soft cup grease, the lubricant generally used on spring 
bolts, etc., should be a homogeneous mixture of high grade mineral oil and 
pure lime soap. It should be entirely free from acid and other adulterants 
and'of a soft nature, and have a sufficiently high melting point to prevent 
free flowing in warm or hot weather. 


Crankcase Dilution —Crankcase dilution (see chapter XII, part three), 
a condition arising from the increasing scarcity of suitable fuels, has of late 
years become a serious factor in engine lubrication; it results from the difficulty 
experienced in the carburetion of the low-grade or heavy fuels now in general 
use and also from overrich mixtures caused by improper use of the car¬ 
buretor choke, incorrect adjustment of the carburetor itself, or both. 

To a certain extent, a preventive may be had in the selection of a good 
quality fuel, but, unfortunately, the car owner far too often has no choice in this 
matter, but must take what he can get. However, circumstances may permit 
his selecting a high quality fuel and a simple test is therefore given below, 
which, although not altogether accurate, will suffice, nevertheless, to indicate 
whether a fuel is bad or good; consequently, it will furnish the car owner 
with a basis for determining which of two or more fuels to choose. 


* The numbers indicate the specifications the various oils meet. 


26 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Specific Gravity of Fuel —In the selection of a fuel, there are two very 
important considerations: A fuel must be sufficiently light (volatile) to make 
for easy starting in cold weather; and it must be as free as possible from heavier 
fuels, to reduce crankcase dilution to a minimum. 

The standard measure of a fuel’s lightness or its suitability for use in a 
motor car engine is its specific gravity, which, although ordinarily an index 
of its weight, that is, its volatility, can not be entirely relied upon as a true 
indication of its quality. For example, a fuel of high specific gravity can be 
produced by mixing a very light fuel with a heavier one, such as gasoline with 
kerosene. It can be readily seen, therefore, that the specific gravity of such 
a mixture is of but little value in fixing its desirability. 

Testing a Fuel—A very simple method of determining the purity of 
a fuel and its suitability for use in a motor car engine is the burn test: Pour 
a tablespoonful of the fuel to be tested into a porcelain or china cup, ignite it, 
and allow it to burn freely until all the fuel has been consumed, being careful 
to protect the cup from drafts. 

The quantity and character of the residua left on the bottom of the cup 
are an indication of the purity of the fuel under test. If the bottom of the 
cup is practically clean, the fuel is good; if a heavy deposit of carbon (a black, 
sooty substance) is left on the upper walls of the cup and a heavy, black 
tarry deposit on its bottom, the quality of the fuel is poor; or if an oily residuum 
be found in the cup, the fuel contains a large quantity of heavier fuels; it is 
between these two results—a clean fuel and one that leaves heavy residua— 
that the quality ranging from good to bad lies. 

Benzol and Alcohol Mixtures —The use of various mixtures of benzol 
should be approached with considerable caution, as such mixtures are fre¬ 
quently very corrosive in their action on the cylinders, pistons, valves, etc. 
This condition is due to impurities not wholly extracted from the benzol 
during the refining process and which enter the cylinders when a benzol 
mixture is used as fuel; this is likewise true of alcohol. 

A rough test of the freedom from corrosive substances of a benzol or 
alcohol mixture can be made by immersing a strip of polished steel in it. If 
the polish of the strip is unimpaired after twenty-four hours of continuous 
immersion, the mixture may be considered suitable for use; if discoloration or 
other corrosive action results, the mixture should be avoided if possible. 

Water —Dirty water—water that is muddy or more or less filled with 
solid matter—is undesirable for use in an engine cooling system, due to the 
danger of such solid matter filling the very small interstices of the radiator, 
thus preventing cooling; nor is hard water (water containing certain minerals 
which encrust the surfaces of the water jackets and the radiator tubes) suitable, 
for it causes poor cooling in that it prevents radiation of heat. Only pure, 
soft water should be used: rain water; spring water that is potable and free 
from minerals; water in which soap lathers freely; only these should be used 
in the cooling system if it is to operate at its maximum efficiency. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


27 


Soaps—In selecting a soap for washing the car, use extreme care to secure 
one as free from strong alkali as possible, as the use of a strong, coarse soap 
on the highly finished surfaces of the coach work is very harmful to the varnish 
and enamel and will soon cause the bright surfaces to lose their lustre. A 
neutral soap is useless, because in order to remove grease, road oil, etc., a caustic 
action is necessary, and a really neutral soap is entirely free from this action. 

A compromise is therefore necessary. Choose a soap that is relatively 
free from alkali, one that will not injure the skin and in which it is safe to 
wash quite delicate fabrics—and use as little of it as possible. 

Polishes—A metal polish should be entirely free from acids, abrasives, 
and other destructive agents, as the continued use of such polishes will destroy 
the nickel plating with which many of the bright metal parts of the car are 
finished. 

Under no circumstances use a polish or renovator on the coachwork— 
regardless of what the garage man or accessory or supply dealer may say on 
the subject; most salesmen are more' interested in selling a polish to you than 
in conserving the finish of your car. 

Practically all these polishes and renovators contain materials that destroy 
varnished and enameled surfaces. They impregnate such surfaces with a 
waxy or greasy coating that temporarily imparts a high lustre but which soon 
destroys the finish. Many of them are bad because they do not remove the 
dust and grime, but grind them into the varnish and enamel, thus marring 
and scratching the finish beyond repair. 

Once applied, these preparations are difficult or impossible to remove, 
and a coach painter therefore is unable to refinish the coachwork except at 
high expense to the owner. 

Bear constantly in mind the fact that low first cost of lubricants, 
soaps, polishes, and other supplies inevitably means high final cost; 
the cheapest is the most expensive; only the best is actually the 
most economical. 


















* 































































PART TWO 


ROUTINE CARE OPERATIONS 


A LITTLE ATTENTION AND THOUGHT 
APPLIED TO THE CARE OF YOUR CAR 
WILL ENSURE CONFIRMATION OF THE 
BELIEF YOU HAD IN ITS QUALITY 
WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT. 





MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


31 


CHAPTER I 

DAILY OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT 
BEFORE TAKING THE CAR FROM THE GARAGE 


1. Ascertain the oil level by means of the oil level gauge (1, fig. 5). 
Add sufficient oil to bring the level to FULL on the oil level gauge rod. 

Do not attempt to ascertain the oil level nor replenish the oil supply 
whilst the engine is running. To prevent the entrance of dirt into the engine 
oil, wipe off the oil filler tube cap before removing it; securely replace the 
cap. 

Unless absolutely necessary, do not operate the engine if the oil level 
is below the 3^ mark on the oil level gauge rod. 

2. Start the engine, and then close the throttle as far as possible without 
causing the engine to stop; push in the choke rod, but not far enough to cause 
the engine to stop or to back-fire. 

3. Fill the fuel tank and securely replace its cap. 

4. Fill the radiator with clean water and securely replace its cap. 

5. Examine the tyres—including spares, to see that they are fully in¬ 
flated; test them with a tyre pressure gauge (see chapter XVII part three, 
for correct tyre pressure). Examine the treads of the tyres for cuts; if any 
are found, do not use the tyre affected until repairs can be made, but replace 
it with a spare. 

6. Before driving the car from the garage, make certain it contains all 
its equipment, such as tools, tyres, side curtains, etc. 

7. As soon as the car is in motion, try both sets of brakes; if they do not 
readily stop the car, adjust them before driving any distance. See chapter 
VI, part three, for details. 

8. On leaving the garage, or as soon as possible thereafter, push in the 
choke rod as far as it will go, to avoid running on an overrich mixture. 

9. As soon as the engine is well heated, note whether sufficient pressure 
is indicated on the oil pressure gauge. When an engine is cold and the oil 
therefore thick, the oil pressure may appear to be sufficient even though the 
oil pump is not functioning properly; in such an event, it will lessen to a 
dangerously low degree when the engine is hot and the oil thin. 

It is wise to form the habit of spending a few minutes as suggested above 
before taking the car from the garage. Ascertaining that all is in order, that 
each item of the car’s equipment is on hand, and that the tyres, those on the 
wheels as well as the spares, are fully inflated, will minimize the possibilities of 
mishaps on the road. 


32 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 5 Oil Level Gauge and Oil Filler Tube 

1 Oil level gauge 4 Oil filler tube 

2 Oil pan 5 Oil level gauge marks 

3 Oil filler tube cap 6 Oil pan drain plug 

Personal Danger—Always bear one very important point in mind: 
When a motor car engine is run in a closed garage, there is an ever¬ 
present danger of the accumulation of noxious gases from the engine 
exhaust. Carbon monoxide, a constituent of these gases, and very 
deadly, particularly because the person breathing it has no warning of 
the danger he is in, is present in large quantities. 

For your personal safety’s sake, therefore, open the windows and 
door to ensure ventilation whenever running the engine in a closed 
place. 








































MANUAL OF CARE AND' OPERATION 


33 


CHAPTER II 

OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT EVERY 250 MILES 

The following operations* are to be carried out every 250 miles (500 km.), 
or weekly: 

1. Examine the condition of the water in the cooling system; if it is 
muddy or filled with rust, see chapter XI, part three, for treatment. 

The cooling system has a water capacity of 7.5 quarts (6.25 imp. qts., 
7.01 1). 

2. Whilst the engine is running, apply a teaspoonful of kerosene and 
engine oil (50% of each) to each valve stem. 

3. If the car is dirty, it is best to wash it, in order to conserve the finish; 
see chapter XIX, part three. 

4. Lubricate the clutch release bearing; see 16, 3, fig. 4 and 10, fig. 19. 

5. Give the water pump shaft lubricator (9, fig. 37) three or four turns, 
and refill it with soft cup grease if necessary; examine the gland (8, fig. 37) 
for leakage. 

6. Wipe each of the following parts clean, before as well as after lubricat¬ 
ing, and apply a small quantity of soft grease to each with the grease com- 
presser. 

A. The steering knuckle pivots (1, fig. 4); 

B. The steering knuckle tie-rod pins (6, fig. 4); 

C. The rear spring bushings (20, fig. 4). 

7. If the car is operated in a very hot climate, examine the storage battery 
to see that the electrolyte is at the correct level, adding distilled (pure) water, 
if necessary. Important: See chapter XV, part three, for further particulars. 

8. Test the degree of inflation of each tyre with a tyre pressure gauge. 
If the pressure is 10% or more below normal, inflate to the correct figure. 


In addition to those already mentioned. 


34 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER III 

OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT EVERY 500 MILES 

The following operations* are to be carried out every 500 miles (1,000 
km.), or fortnightly: 

1. Wash the engine, transmission, and other parts, and as much of the 
universal joint casing, rear axle housing, etc., as can be conveniently reached, 
using gasoline or kerosene and a stiff bristle brush and a syringe; wipe dry 
with a clean cloth. After washing, oil all parts that require lubrication 
by hand. 

2. Apply a few drops of engine oil to each of the following: 

A. Spark and throttle controls (at steering gear, carburetor, and dis¬ 
tributor) ; 

B. Oil cups at each end of starting motor; 

C. Brake hand lever bearing; 

D. Gearshift lever bearing (on transmission case cover); 

E. All brake shafts rod ends, and pins; 

F. Brake operating mechanism (on brake bands;. 

3. See that all electrical connections are tight and clean, not overlooking 
those on the instruments on the instrument board, ignition distributor, and 
battery. 

4. Remove the ignition distributor cap (locked by two clips) and care¬ 
fully wipe it out with a clean, dry cloth, free from lint or loose threads, to 
remove oil or dirt. It may be necessary to wash it with a clean cloth soaked 
in gasoline; if so, do not start the engine until the distributor is 
thoroughly dry, because of the danger of fire. 

5. Take a specific gravity reading of the battery electrolyte, noting 
whether the latter is at the correct level and adding distilled (pure) water if 
necessary. 

6. Fill the oil cap in the upper rear side of the generator with engine 
oil. 

7. Give the lubricator (10, fig. 4) on the side of the ignition distributor 
three or four turns, and refill it with soft cup grease if necessary. 

Do not for any reason put oil or grease on the generator or starting 
motor commutators. 

8. Fill the oil holes In the valve rockers with engine oil, not forgetting to 
apply a quantity of oil to the oil felts at the tops of the valve push rods. 

9. Screw down the lubricator on the water pump and fan shaft three or 
four turns; refill with soft cup grease if necessary. 

10. Drain and flush the oil pan; see chapter XII, part three, for details. 
Fill only with fresh, unused oil, and do not forget securely to replace 

*In addition to those already mentioned. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


35 


the drain plug. The engine has an oil capacity of 4 quarts (3.3 imp. 
qts., 3.78 1.). 

11. Clean the rear wheel bearing lubricators (21, fig. 4) and apply a 
small quantity of soft cup grease with the grease compressor. 

12. Remove the lubricator (13, fig 35) from the steering gear case and, 
with an oil syringe, fill with transmission oil (summer grade); do not use 

grease. 

13. Wash and lubricate the springs; see chapter IX, part three, for 
details. 

14. Fill the transmission and rear axle with oil; see chapters III and V, 
part three, for details. 

15. Go over all parts of the car with a wrench and try the various bolts 
and nuts for looseness. Tighten the engine support bolts, those holding the 
body to the frame, the mud guard and spring bolts, etc. Pay particular 
attention to the spring clips and bolts, as broken springs almost invariably 
result from looseness in these last-mentioned parts. 

16. Examine the treads of the tyres for cuts and other injuries and take 
immediate steps to repair them; see chapter XVII, part three, for details. 

17. Examine the front wheel bearings for looseness; see chapter VII, part 
three, for details. 

18. Examine the lining of the foot brake (outer) bands for wear. If 
they are noticeably thin and the brakes do not hold well after adjustment, 
reline them; see chapter VI, part three, for details. 

At any point where one piece of metal moves on another—door 
hinges, for example, or mud guards, dust shields, etc.—and which 
is not otherwise provided with lubrication, apply a few drops of 
engine oil; fill all oil holes, oil cups, or other lubricators wherever 
found. 


36 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER IV 

OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT EVERY 1,000 MILES 

The following operations* are to be carried out every 1,000 miles (2,000 
km.) or monthly: 

1. Drain and flush the oil pan and the lubrication system in general, and 
then remove the oil pan and clean and replace it; see chapter XII, part three, 
for details. 

2. Drain all the fuel from the fuel tank by removing the drain plug from 
its bottom; securely replace the drain plug. Allow all sediment and water in 
the fuel to settle to the bottom of the container, and then carefully pour it 
back into the tank through a chamois skin (see Caution, p. 121) or a fine metal 
gauze strainer. Do not replace all the fuel, thus preventing the sediment and 
water from entering the tank. Never strain the fuel through cloth. 

3. Remove the drain plug (11, fig. 41) from the bottom of the vacuum 
tank and drain the latter; securely replace the drain plug.f Remove the 
strainer (3, fig. 41; 6, fig. 42) from the top of the vacuum tank and care¬ 
fully wash it to remove all sediment; securely replace it. 

4. Remove the carburetor drain plugs and the fuel pipe connection 
(8 and 11 fig. 40). Remove the float chamber cover and take out the float 
and needle valve (guard against damaging these parts). Wash and flush out 
all sediment with fuel; do not use a cloth or waste, and be careful not to 
injure the fuel filter screen. Securely replace all parts; open the fuel 
shut-off cock; inspect the fuel pipe connection, drain plugs, etc., for 
leaks. 

5. Examine the adjustment of the foot and hand brakes, to see that 
they are equalized; see chapter VI, part three, for details. 

6. Apply a very small quantity of vaseline or similar lubricant to the 
surface of the ignition distributor breaker cam (18, fig. 58). 

7. Examine the ignition distributor breaker points (14, fig. 58) to see that 
they open the correct amount; see chapter XVI, part three, for details. Do 
not under any circumstances oil the breaker points. 

8. Remove and clean the spark plugs and adjust their points; see chapter 
XVI, part three, for details. In replacing the spark plug cables, be careful 
not to get them mixed. 

9. Disconnect one of the storage battery cables. Clean the dirt from 
the commutator covers of the starting motor and generator, remove the covers, 
and examine the brushes to see that they are making good contact with the 
commutators, and that they and the latter are clean; see chapter XIV, part 
three, for details. Replace the covers and reconnect the battery cable 
before attempting to start the engine. 

* In addition to those already mentioned. 

f Stewart tank only. G. G. tank, remove top and inner chamber and clean sediment from 
outer chamber. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


37 


10. Test the valve clearance; see chapter I, part three, for details. 

11. Examine the fan belt. If it is greasy, wash it; see chapter XI, part 
three, for details. 

12. Test the alignment of the front wheels and adjust if necessary; see 
chapter VII, part three, for details. 

13. Drain the cooling system and thoroughly flush it with a solution 
of lye (caustic soda) or washing soda; see chapter XI, part three, for details. 

14. Remove and wash the front wheel bearings. Important: See detailed 
instructions, chapter VII, part three. 

If the car is equipped with wire wheels, remove them and wash the interior 
of their hubs and the exteriors of the inner hubs (mounted on the axles) to 
remove all dirt and grease. Wipe dry and apply a light coating of soft cup 
grease, and replace the wheels, making certain the hub caps are 
securely locked. 

15. Disassemble the joint at each end of the steering gear connecting 
rod—running from the steering gear to the steering knuckle lever, wash with 
gasoline or kerosene to remove the old grease and dirt, pack with soft cup 
grease, and reassemble. Any looseness or play in these joints should be com¬ 
pensated at this time by the adjustments provided; see chapter VII, part 
three, for details. Do not forget to replace the split pins. 

16. Drain and flush and then refill the transmission and rear axle; see 
chapters 111 and V, part three, for details. 

17. Test the compression in each cylinder (see p. 58). 


38 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER V 

OPERATIONS* TO BE CARRIED OUT EVERY 3,000f MILES 

Disconnect the speedometer flexible shaft and pull the chain out of the 
casing from the lower end. Thoroughly wash the chain and its casing in gas¬ 
oline or kerosene, and, when dry, apply a coat of soft cup grease to the chain 
and replace it in the casing. In reconnecting the flexible shaft to the speed¬ 
ometer and to the speedometer drive gear, be certain the small driving jaws 
are correctly located. 

Under no circumstances apply oil to the speedometer head. 

CHAPTER VI 

OPERATIONS* TO BE CARRIED OUT EVERY 12,000 MILES 

Every 10,000 to 12,000 miles (20,000 to 25,000 km.), or yearly, the car 
should receive a thorough overhauling. Such parts as the engine, clutch, 
transmission, universal joint, steering gear, front and rear axles, starting, 
lighting, and ignition apparatus, etc., should be carefully disassembled and 
thoroughly cleaned and adjusted before reassembling and installing in the car. 
All these parts should have the old oil and grease washed out and then re¬ 
packed with fresh lubricant. 

Unless the car owner is familiar with work of this nature, it is advisable 
that he place his car in the hands of a reliable repair shop and have the above 
work attended to there. He might do well to take the car to such a shop and 
consult with them regarding the work, giving his views and receiving those of 
the repair shop manager. If the services of such a shop are not available to 
the owner, he is referred to the chapters in part three covering the various 
parts of the car, in which he will find information that may be of value to 
him in undertaking this work himself. 

* In addition to those already mentioned, 
f 5,000 km. 


PART THREE 

THE COMPONENTS OF THE CAR 
THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 
FUNCTION, AND ADJUSTMENT 


THE SATISFACTION THAT WILL 
ACCRUE TO YOU IN THE USE OF YOUR 
CAR IS PURELY A MATTER OF CHOICE 
—AND ENTIRELY WITHIN YOUR MAK¬ 
ING. IT WILL BE IN PROPORTION 
TO THE DEGREE YOU HAVE OR HAVE 
NOT LEARNED TO THE LEAST DETAIL 
THE CAR’S OPERATION AND CARE. 





A 

B 

C 


Inlet stroke 
Compression stroke 
Firing stroke 


G Exhaust valve 


D Exhaust stroke 
E Spark plug 
F Inlet valve 


Fig. 6. Four-Stroke Cycle Diagram 















































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


41 


CHAPTER I 

THE ENGINE 

There are in use today three types of motive power for automobiles—the 
gasoline engine (known as the internal combustion engine), the steam engine, 
and the electric motor. Of these, the gasoline engine is in almost universal use. 

Internal Combustion—Internal combustion means that combustion 
takes place within something—a stove, a furnace, or an engine. For example, 
in a gasoline engine, fuel—gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, etc.—is mixed with air 
and admitted into the cylinders, where it is ignited and burned, power being 
derived from the expansion of the gases produced by the combustion of this 
mixture. 

Cycle of Operation—When such an engine is in operation, the pistons 
move down, then up, first with one valve and then another opening and then 
closing, drawing in charges of fuel and air, and igniting, burning, and exhaust¬ 
ing them as long as the engine is working. 

Whilst the engine is running, we see a series of cycles, each comprising a 
complete set of operations—hence the general name two and four cycle engine. 

The piston starts from the top of the cylinder and moves to the bottom 
and then returns to the top. Each one of these operations is known as a stroke; 
and, as it takes four complete strokes to complete one cycle of operations, 
we call this type of engine a four-stroke cycle—commonly, a four cycle—engine. 

The Four-Stroke Cycle—According to the dictionary, a cycle is a com¬ 
plete course of operations of some kind, returning into itself and restoring the 
original condition. This is a general definition of the term; let us now see 
just what its meaning is when applied to the principle under which a four 
cycle gasoline engine operates; in other words, how the engine works. 

In detail, the four strokes of the cycle are as follows: 

Inlet Stroke—(A) The piston starts from the top of the cylinder and 
moves to the bottom. Just as it does so, the inlet valve (see fig. 6) is opened 
and the piston draws a charge of fuel (gasoline, for example) mixed with 
air from the carburetor through the inlet manifold and inlet valve into the 
cylinder. The inlet valve remains open until the piston has reached the 
bottom of the stroke (the bottom of the cylinder—the limit of the piston's 
travel), when it closes. This is the first, or inlet or suction stroke. 

Compression Stroke—(B) The piston then moves to the top of the 
cylinder, which is now filled with a charge of fuel and air; and, as both valves * 
are closed, the piston in moving upward compresses this charge into the con¬ 
stantly decreasing space in the head of the cylinder, thus preparing the charge 
for ignition and combustion. This is the second—the compression stroke. 

Firing Stroke—(C) When the piston has reached the end of the stroke 
and is at the top of the cylinder, and with both valves still closed, the com- 


42 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


pressed charge is ignited by the spark which occurs at this moment at the spark 
plug. The charge of now burning fuel and air expands with explosive rapidity 
and power and drives the piston downward with great force. When the piston 
arrives within a short distance of the bottom of the stroke, the exhaust valve 
is opened and the still burning and expanding gases rush out through this 
valve and the exhaust pipe and muffler to the outer air This is the third, 
or firing or power stroke. 

Exhaust Stroke—(D) The piston, with the exhaust valve still open, 
now moves to the top once more, forcing out of the cylinder what burned 
gases there still may remain therein, and, at the end of the stroke, the exhaust 
valve closes. This is the fourth and last, or exhaust stroke. 

Timing an Engine—It will be noted the crankshaft makes two revo¬ 
lutions to each cycle, whilst four strokes of the piston are required for the 
same result. Note also that each valve is opened but once in each cycle—the 
inlet valve on the inlet and the exhaust valve on the exhaust stroke; also, 
that each of these valves opens and closes only at certain points in the cycle. 

To provide for these contingencies, the crankshaft timing gear is just one- 
half as large as the camshaft timing gear, thus driving the camshaft at one- 
half the speed of the crankshaft. In assembling the engine, therefore, the 
camshaft timing gear is meshed with the crankshaft timing gear in such a 
fashion that the valves open and close only at certain exactly fixed points 
in the inlet, compression, firing, and exhaust strokes. 

In precisely the same manner is this true of the ignition. The spark 
should occur only at the top of the compression stroke, but once in every two 
revolutions. (As a matter of fact, if the spark is advanced to the normal 
driving position, ignition takes place somewhat before the top of the com¬ 
pression stroke.) 

Setting or adjusting the timing gears and the ignition is known as timing 
the engine and should never be attempted by a novice. Such work should 
always be placed in the hands of the most highly skilled and experienced 
mechanics available, for if it is not properly done the engine will run very 
badly or it may not even run at all. 

Valve-in-Head Construction—There are a number of very important 
reasons for the valve-in-head form of construction. The gasoline engine is a heat 
machine, deriving its power from the heat developed in burning a mixture of 
fuel and air within its cylinders. The type of engine, therefore, that conserves 
in the highest degree the heat units in each charge of fuel and air will show the 
greatest efficiency and economy in service, other things being equal. 

Of all internal combustion engines this condition is most closely met in 
the valve-in-head type. It will be noted by reference to A, figure 7, that the 
valve-in-head engine has but a very small proportion of its combustion chamber 
walls exposed to the heat of combustion; on the other hand, the valve pockets 
in the sides of the combustion chambers in any other type of engine present a 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


43 


much larger proportion of combustion chamber surface to the combustion of 
fuel and thereby waste a larger percentage of this heat. 

It follows, therefore, that the valve-in-head type more closely approaches 
the ideal than any other. Its thermal efficiency is highest—which means it 
extracts the largest possible amount of energy from the fuel; from the owner’s 
point of view, it delivers more miles to the gallon. 

In order to have perfect combustion, two conditions are essential: One, the 
cylinders must be completely cleared of all burned gases before a fresh charge 
of fuel and air is admitted; and two, the spark plugs must be located as closely 
as possible to the center of the mass of gas so that rapid ignition can be ob¬ 
tained, otherwise slow and therefore wasteful combustion will take place. 



Fig. 7. I-, L- t and T-Head Engine Valve Arrangement 


Each of these conditions is completely met in the valve-in-head engine 
Because the valves are in the cylinder head and directly over the pistons, the 
gas, in entering and leaving, flows in a straight line—the shortest possible 
path and the one of least resistance. The other requisite, that of spark plug 
location, is likewise fully met in this type of engine, as will be seen by reference 
to figure 7. The spark plug position in practically every other type of engine 
is usually over the valves and consequently at some distance from the center 
of the cylinder. This location is inefficient and ignition (combustion) accord¬ 
ingly takes place much more slowly than in the valve-in-head type. Such a 
condition militates against obtaining the maximum efficiency and results not 
only in less power but also in largely increased operating costs. 
















44 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


There is still another advantage in valve-in-head construction—that of 
accessibility of the valves and the valve-actuating mechanism; in other words, 
minimum repair charges. The simplicity of this arrangement is so great that 
many owners can personally handle such more or less difficult operations as 
valve-grinding, carbon removal, and the like, thus saving repair costs that 
owners of other types of engines must submit to with whatever grace they 
can muster. 

One other desirable detail should not be overlooked: The cylinders and 
the cylinder head are not in one piece; the latter is attached to the former by 
a number of cap screws, with a heavy copper-asbestos gasket interposed to 
prevent leakage of water and gas. This feature is of very great value to the car 
owner in that it facilitates making certain repairs and adjustments that would 
otherwise prove both difficult and costly. It has been in use on these engines 
practically since their inception, and it is worthy of note that other manu¬ 
facturers are coming more and more to the same form of construction. 

Improper Functioning of the Engine—Most of the items listed below 
result from carelessness or abuse in caring for the engine; a large number of 
them rarely or never occur; none can be ascribed to defects of construction. 
As a general proposition, it can be truthfully said that, barring accident, 
practically every case of improper functioning of an engine results from neg¬ 
lect or oversevere service; prompt and thorough attention to routine care will 
prevent them all. 

Detailed instructions, where needed, will be found in the pages following 
the list. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


45 


ENGINE FAILS TO START 


REASON 

SYMPTOM 

CAUSE 

REMEDY 

Air leaks 

Hissing or whis¬ 
tling sound at 
carburetor, inlet 
manifold, o r 

valve stems 

Loose or broken 
carburetor or in¬ 
let manifold gas¬ 
ket; worn valve 
stem guides 

Tighten, or re¬ 
place if neces¬ 
sary 

Cylinders flooded 
with fuel 

Fuel dripping 
from carburetor 
or muffler 

Carburetor choke 
pulled out too 
far 

Carburetor float 
jammed 

Leaky carburetor 
float 

Dirt on needle 
valve seat 

Crank engine 
with spark plugs 
removed until 
cylinders are dry 
Release by rais¬ 
ing and lower¬ 
ing needle valve; 
see p. 121 

Repair or replace 
float 

Rotate needle 
valve on its seat; 
drain carburet¬ 
or; see p. 123 

Improperly ad¬ 
justed carburet¬ 
or choke 

Engine runs ir¬ 
regularly ; may 
back-fire; starts, 
then stops 

Carelessness 

Adjust choke 
properly; see 

p. 11-12 

Water or dirt in 
fuel 

Back-firing in 
carburetor; e n- 
gine starts, then 
stops 

Careless handling 
of fuel; failure 
to keep fuel sys¬ 
tem clean 

Drain and wash 
out fuel system; 
carefully strain 
fuel when filling 

Carburetor 

frozen 

Back-firing in 
carburetor, o r 
engine will not 
start 

Accumulation of 
water in float 
chamber 

Drain, and apply 
hot cloths. Do 
not use a 
flame 

No fuel 

Engine will not 
start; starts, 
then stops 

Carelessness; 
leaks 

Fill fuel tank; 
repair 

Engine too cold 

Engine starts and 
then stops ; 
back-firing; no 
power; sluggish 
action 


Drain cooling 
system and fill 
with hot water, 
or apply hot 
cloths to car¬ 
buretor and in- 
1 e t manifold. 
Do not use a 
flame 

Ignition switch 

No spark 

Carelessness 

Turn on switch 

not on 




Weak battery 

Starter does not 
crank engine 


Have battery 
charged; see page 
136 

Dirty or broken 
spark plugs 

No or poor spark 
at plug points 

Too rich a mix¬ 
ture or improper 
lubrication ; 
rough handling 
of plugs 

Clean, or replace 
if necessary; ad¬ 
just carbure- 
tion; use proper 
oil 











46 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


ENGINE FAILS TO START (Continued) 


REASON 
Ignition distribu¬ 
tor out of order 

SYMPTOM 

No or very weak 
spark 

CAUSE 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment ; dirty or 
wrongly adjust- 
ed breaker 
points; wires 
short - circuited 
or broken; brok¬ 
en brushes; 
dirty distributor 

REMEDY 

Adjust and clean 

Improper spark 
plug gaps 

Misfiring 

Lack of atten- 
tion; points 
burned 

Adjust 

Defective battery 
terminals 

Misfiring 

Loose or corroded 

Tighten and clean 

Wiring system 
out of order 

Starter motor will 
not run; no or 
poor spark 

Lack of attention 

Tighten connec¬ 
tions or repair 
or replace brok¬ 
en wires 

Improper connec¬ 
tions of spark 
plug cables 

Misfiring; engine 
may tend to run 
backwards 

Carelessness 

Connect properly 

Incorrect valve or 
ignition timing 

Weak explosions; 
back-firing; en¬ 
gine may tend 
to run back¬ 
wards 

Improper assem¬ 
bly 

Time engine 

Broken or weak 
valve springs 

Back-firing 


Replace 

Broken or bent 
valve 

Back-firing; poor 
compression 

No lubrication; 
carelessness 

Repair or replace 

Poor compression 

Weak explosions 

Leaky valves; 
bent valve ;brok- 
en valve or 
spring; improper 
valve timing; 
broken or worn 
pistons or rings; 
incorrect valve 
clearance; leaky 
cylinder head 

Adjust, or re' 
place and refit 
parts affected if 
necessary; see 
p. 58 


ENGINE MISSES AT LOW SPEED 


Improper spark 
plug gaps 

Missing on hard 
pull 

Burned elec¬ 
trodes and im¬ 
proper adjust¬ 
ment 

Adjust, or re¬ 
place if necessary 

Partly discharged 
battery 

Weak spark 

See chapt. XV, 
part three 

See chapt. XV. 
part three 











MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


47 


ENGINE MISSES AT LOW SPEED (Continued) 


REASON 

Air leaks 

SYMPTOM 
Back-firing in 
carburetor 

CAUSE 

REMEDY 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Dirt or water in 
fuel 

Back-firing in 
carburetor 

Careless handling 
of fuel 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Improper carbu¬ 
ret ion 

Back-firing; ir¬ 
regular running 

- 

Adjust carburet¬ 
or 

Poor compression 

Poor power 


See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Worn valve stem 
guides 

Possibly back-fir¬ 
ing in carburet¬ 
or ; poor power 

Lack of lubrica¬ 
tion ;carelessness 

Repair, or re¬ 
place if neces¬ 
sary 


ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED 


Improper spark 
plug gaps 

Misfiring on hard 
pull 

Burned points or 
improper adj ust- 
ment 

Adjust, or replace 
if necessary 

Dirty ignition 
distributor 
breaker points 

Misfiring 

Lack of atten¬ 
tion; carelessness 

Clean and adjust 

Weak ignition 
distributor 
breaker spring 

Misfiring 


Replace 

Improper carbu¬ 
retor adjust¬ 

ment 

Back-firing; ir¬ 
regular running 


Adjust 

Dirt or water in 
fuel 

Backfiring in 
carburetor; ir¬ 
regular running 

Careless handling 
of fuel 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Ignition out of 
order 

Weak spark ;dirty 
spark plugs; 
loose connec¬ 
tions 

Lack of attention 

Adj ust; clean; 
tighten 

Cracked distrib¬ 
utor head 

Difficult to detect 


Have examined 
by expert 

Bent valve stems 

Valves affected 
tend to remain 
open 

No lubrication of 
valve stems ; 
lack of atten¬ 
tion 

Straighten if pos¬ 
sible and grind; 
if not, replace, 
grinding new 
valve 

Air leaks 

Back-firing in 
carburetor; ir¬ 
regular running 

Lack of attention 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 
















48 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED (Continued) 


REASON 
Improper fuel 
feed 

SYMPTOM 

Back-firing in 
carburetor; ir¬ 
regular running 

CAUSE 

Dirt in fuel; care¬ 
less filling of 
fuel tank 

REMEDY 

Clean out fuel 
system 


ENGINE MISSES AT ALL SPEEDS 


Improper carbu- 
retion 

Backfiring; ir¬ 
regular running; 
sluggish action 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment ; dirt or 
water in fuel; 
high altitude 

Carburetor choke 
rod in or out too 
far 

Improper fuel 

Difficult start¬ 
ing; back-firing; 
fuel knocks; 
poor power; 
sluggish action 


Adjust carburet¬ 
or; some fuels 
require different 
carburetor from 
that fitted 

Bent or jammed 
float needle 
valve 

Back-firing; fuel 
dripping from 
carburetor or 
muffler 

Rough handling; 
dirt in fuel 

Release; straight¬ 
en valve, or re¬ 
place if neces¬ 
sary; drain car¬ 
buretor 

Dirt or water in 
fuel 

Back-firing in 
carburetor 

Careless handling 
of fuel 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Improper lubri¬ 
cation 

Usually accom¬ 
panied by over¬ 
heating or ex¬ 
cessive smoking 

I mproper oil; 
worn or broken 
pistons or rings 

Flush lubrication 
system and fill 
with proper oil; 
replace broken 
or worn parts 

Incorrect ignition 

Misfiring; poor 
power; spark 
knocks 

Lack of attention 

Adjust, clean, 
tighten connec¬ 
tions, etc. 

Air leaks 

Back-firing in 
carburetor; poor 
power 

Lack of attention 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Poor compression 

Weak explosions 

Lack of attention 

See E N G I N E 
FAILS TO 
START 

Broken or weak 
valve spring 

Back-firing; ir¬ 
regular action 


Replace 

Broken or bent 
valve 

Back-firing; ir¬ 
regular action 

Improper lubri¬ 
cation, lack of 
attention 

Straighten or re¬ 
place, grinding 
new valve 

Improper valve 
clearance 

Valve does not 
completely seat; 
valve clicks 
loudly 

Lack of atten¬ 
tion; improper 
adjustment 

If clearance too 
small,adjust and 
grind valve; if 
too large, adjust 












MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


49 


ENGINE OVERHEATS 


REASON 

No water 

SYMPTOM 

Steam at radia¬ 
tor; cold radia¬ 
tor tubes 

CAUSE 

Carelessness, or 
leak in cooling 
system 

REMEDY 

Fill cooling sys¬ 
tem; repair leak 
if necessary 

Water pump 

Cold * radiator; 
hot cylinders 

Parts broken; 
see fan, below 

Replace broken 
parts 

Fan 

Not rotating, or 
running slowly 
at all engine 
speeds 

Fan belt greasy, 
loose, or worn; 
lack of lubrica¬ 
tion 

Wash or replace 
belt; lubricate 
pump shaft; 
water pump 
gland may be 
too tight 

Bent or broken 
fan blades 


Rough handling; 
abuse 

Repair or replace 

Frozen radiator 

Cold radiator, 
with steam es¬ 
caping 

Carelessness 

Thaw; use hot 
water or have 
car removed to 
warm place; Do 

not start en¬ 
gine 

Improper lubri¬ 
cation 

Poor power; 
knocking; en¬ 
gine hard to 
crank 

Too little or no 
oil; dirty oil; 
worn oil pump 

Flush lubricating 
system and fill 
with proper oil; 
replace worn 

parts if neces¬ 
sary; test oil 
pressure gauge 

Too rich a mix¬ 
ture 

Heavy black 
smoke at ex¬ 
haust and strong 
odor; irregular 
running; back¬ 
firing in muffler; 
no speed 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment of carbu- 
retor; bent 
needle valve; 
leaky float; dirty 
needle valve 
seat; vacuum 
tank out of ad¬ 
justment; high 
altitude; choke 
rod pulled out 

Adjust, clean, or 
repair 

Running with re¬ 
tarded spark 

Loud exhaust; 
back-firing in 
muffler 

Carelessness 

Advance spark 

Ignition timed 
too late 

Loud exhaust; 
back- firing in 
muffler 

Improper timing 

Time properly 

- i 

Carbon accumu¬ 
lations in cylin¬ 
ders 

Poor power; 
knocking, par¬ 
ticularly on 
hard pull 

Lackof attention; 
improper lubri¬ 
cation or carbu- 
retion; running 
with choke rod 
pulled out 

Clean out cylin¬ 
ders; use proper 
oil; adjust car¬ 
buretor ; run less 
at choke posi¬ 
tion 











50 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


ENGINE OVERHEATS (Continued) 


REASON 

Brakes dragging 

SYMPTOM 

Hot brake bands 
and drums; poor 
speed and power; 
excessive fuel 
consumption 

CAUSE 

Carelessness; lack 
of attention 
or lubrication 

* 

REMEDY 

Adjust brakes; 
lubricate brake 
mechanism 

Choked muffler 

Poor power; 
hissing sound at 
muffler 

Mixture con¬ 
stantly rich; im¬ 
proper lubrica¬ 
tion; improper 
fuel; careless¬ 
ness 

Very rare; dis¬ 
assemble and 
clean muffler; 
adjust carbure- 
tion; use proper 
oil 


ENGINE STOPS 


Ignition switch 
off 

Engine stops 
suddenly 

Accidental 

Turn switch on 

No fuel 

Engine stops 
slowly ;back-fires 
in carburetor 

Carelessness; dirt 
in fuel nozzles 
and strainers; 
shut-off cock 
closed 

Fill fuel tank; 
clean carburetor; 
open fuel shut¬ 
off cock 

Water or dirt in 
fuel 

Engine stops 
slowly; back-fires 
in carburetor 

Careless handling 
of fuel 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Carburetor 

flooded 

Fuel dripping 
from carbure¬ 
tor ; engine stops 
slowly, runs un¬ 
evenly; explo¬ 
sions in muffler; 
strong odor to 
exhaust 

Carburetor choke 
pulled out too 
far; leaky float; 
bent or jammed 
needle valve; 
dirt on needle 
valve seat 

Examine and ad¬ 
just carburetor 
float and needle 
valve; flush out 
carburetor; push 
choke in 

Throttle closed 
too far 

Engine stops 
suddenly (when 
car is not in 
motion) 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment of throttle 

Adjust throttle 
stop-screw 

Defective wiring 

E n gin e stops 
suddenly or may 
run intermit¬ 
tently before 
stopping 

Broken or short- 
circuited wires; 
lack of attention 

Repair, or re¬ 
place if neces¬ 
sary 


ENGINE KNOCKS 


Carbon in cylin¬ 
ders 

Poor power; 
knocking on 
heavy pull ; 
overheating 

Improper carbu¬ 
ret ion or lubri¬ 
cation ; lack of. 
attention 

Clean out carbon; 
use proper oil; 
adjust carbure- 
tion 

Spark advanced 
too far 

Usually on a hill 
or in heavy go¬ 
ing 

Careless driving 

Retard spark, 
and shift to next 
lower gear if 


necessary 









MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


51 


ENGINE KNOCKS (Continued) 


REASON 

Running too long 
on high gear 

SYMPTOM 

Usually on a hill 
or in heavy going 

CAUSE 

Careless driving 

REMEDY 

Shift to next low¬ 
er gear 

Faulty lubrica¬ 
tion 

Engine over¬ 
heats; no or little 
pressure on oil 
pressure gauge; 
engine hard to 
crank 

Defective oil 
pump, oil piping, 
or oil pressure 
gauge; no or too 
little oil; dirty 
oil 

Replace broken or 
worn parts; 
clean out lubri¬ 
cating system 
and refill with 
fresh oil of the 
.proper grade 

Overheated 

engine 

Poor power; 
water boils; 
engine suddenly 
stops; engine 
knocks 

Defective water 
or oil circula¬ 
tion ; no water or 
oil; water leaks; 
retarded spark; 
dragging brakes; 
slipping clutch; 
carelessness 

Allow engine to 
cool; fill with 
water or oil and 
see that the cir¬ 
culation is good; 
examine brakes 
and clutch; ad¬ 
vance spark 

Loose connecting 
rod bearing 

A pronounced 
thumping in en¬ 
gine 

Defective lubri¬ 
cation; wear; im¬ 
proper assembly 

Adjust; it may 
be necessary to 
replace bearings 

Loose piston pin 
bearing 

Light metallic 
click 

Same as connect¬ 
ing rod bearing 

Replace with 
oversize piston 
pin 

Loose main bear¬ 
ing 

Very heavy 
thump in engine 

Same as connect¬ 
ing rod bearing 

Same as connect¬ 
ing rod bearing 

Loose piston 

Light metallic 
click in cylinder; 
piston slap 

Same as connect¬ 
ing rod bearing 

Replace with 
oversize piston 

Broken piston 
rings 

Light metallic 
click in cylinder 

Mostly by defec¬ 
tive lubrication 
or careless as¬ 
sembly 

Fit new rings; 
possibly cylin- 
der may be 
scored 

Loose fly-wheel 

Intermittent, 
heavy thumping 

Broken split pins 
on nuts; loose 
bolts; careless 
assembly 

Tighten nuts and 
replace split 
pins 

Improper valve 
clearance 

Pronounced 
metallic clicking 
at valves 

Wear or improper 
adjustment ; 
lack of attention 

Adjust clearance 

Use of unsuitable 
fuel 

A knock similar 
to advanced 
spark 


Use another kind 
of fuel, or in¬ 
stall carburetor 
suited to the 


fuel being used 












52 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


ENGINE KNOCKS (Continued) 


REASON 

SYMPTOM 

CAUSE 

REMEDY 

Fuel knock 

Similar to ad- Improper carbu- 
vanced spark retion 

ENGINE WILL NOT STOP 

Readjust carbu¬ 
retor: usually a 
slightly richer 
mixture com¬ 
pensates this 

condition 

Overheated en¬ 
gine 

Engine continues 
to run intermit¬ 
tently and is 
very hot 

Usually careless 
driving; lack of 
attention; abuse 

Pull choke out 
as far as it will 
come; shut off 
fuel feed; stall 
engine by start¬ 
ing on high gear 

Carbon deposit 

Engine runs in- Excessive accu- 
termittently mulation of car- 

after switch is bon in cylinders; 

turned off lack of attention 

LACK OF POWER 

Proceed as in 
overheated en¬ 
gine ; remove 

carbon deposit 
by cleaning 

Poor compression 

Sluggish action 

Lack pf attention 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Too weak or too 
rich a mixture 

Back-firing in 
carburetor; ex¬ 
plosions in muf¬ 
fler and strong 
odor 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment of carbu¬ 
retor 

Adjust carburet¬ 
or 

Operating engine 
in high altitude 

Sluggish action; 
black smoke or 
strong odor 
to exhaust 

Too little oxygen 
in the air 

Adjust carburet¬ 
or to lean mix¬ 
ture 

Poor ignition 

Weak spark 

Defective ig¬ 
nition appara¬ 
tus 

Adjust, or have 
apparatus exam¬ 
ined by expert 

Ignition timed 
too late 

Overheating ; 
back-firing 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment 

Time properly 

Running with re¬ 
tarded spark 

Overheating; 
back-firing 

Careless driving 

Advance spark 

Improper valve 
timing 

Back-firing ; 
loud exhaust 

Improper assem¬ 
bly 

Time properly 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment of valves 

Poor compres¬ 
sion; loud me¬ 
tallic clicking at 

valves 

Carelessness; 
lack of attention 

See pages 55-57 

Lack of lubrica¬ 
tion 

Overheating; 
knocking 

Lack of attention 

Examine lubrica¬ 
tion system 











MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


53 


LACK OF POWER (Continued) 


REASON 

Lack of cooling 
water 

SYMPTOM 

Overheating ; 
knocking 

CAUSE 

Lack of attention 

REMEDY 

Examine cooling 
system 

Dragging brakes 

Hot brake bands 
and drums; ex¬ 
cessive fuel con¬ 
sumption 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment ; lack of 
attention 

Adjust brakes 

Lack of fuel 

Sluggish engine 
action and back¬ 
firing in carbu¬ 
retor 


Fill fuel tank 

Slipping clutch 

Engine speeds up 
with no effect 
on car speed 

Oil or grease on 
clutch lining; 
worn clutch 
lining; broken 
or weak clutch 
spring; lack of 
attention 

Wash; adjust; re¬ 
place parts if 
necessary 

Tyres 


Punctured or 
nearly deflated 

Replace or inflate 

Choked muffler 

Overheating ; 
hissing at 
muffler 

Mixture con¬ 
stantly rich; im¬ 
proper lubrica¬ 
tion; improper 
fuel; carelessness 

Rare; remove 
muffler and 
clean; adjust 

carburetor; use 
proper oil; use 
different fuel 

BACK-FIRING THROUGH CARBURETOR 

Dirt or water in 
fuel; air leaks 

Poor power; 
sluggish action 

Careless handling 
of fuel 

See ENGINE 
FAILS TO 
START 

Inlet valve open 

Poor compression 

Not closing prop¬ 
erly, due to too 
close clearance, 
bent valve stem, 
lack of lubrica¬ 
tion 

Adjust clearance 
and grind valve 


BACK-FIRING 

IN MUFFLER 


Ignition timed 
too late 

Loud exhaust; 
poor or no pow¬ 
er; overheating 

Improper adjust¬ 
ment 

Time properly 

Improper mix¬ 
ture 

Sluggish action; 
strong odor and 
black smoke to 
exhaust 

Mixture too rich 

Adjust carbure- 
tion 

Improper ignition 

Misfiring; poor 
power 

Lack of attention 

Adjust ignition 
system 










54 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


BACK-FIRING IN MUFFLER (Continued) 


REASON 

Exhaust valves 
not closing prop¬ 
erly 


SYMPTOM 

Valves stick open; 
poor or no com¬ 
pression 


CAUSE 

Too small a clear¬ 
ance ; weak or 
broken valve 
springs; bent 
stem; lack of 
lubrication 


REMEDY 

Adjust and grind 
valves; replace 
broken or 
worn parts 


Improper valve Poor power 
[timing 

Improper assem¬ 
bly, or adjust¬ 
ment 

Time and adjust 
properly 

Whilst coasting 

Accumulations of 

Keep throttle 

down hill and 

unburned gas in 

closed whilst 

braking with en¬ 

the muffler 

coasting 

gine 




Overrich 

ture 


mix- -Overheating; 

black smoke and 
strong odor to 
exhaust; irreg¬ 
ular, sluggish ac¬ 
tion; poor power 


Defective carbu- Adjust 
retion; vacuum 
tank out of order 


Timing Marks —Reference to figure 8 will disclose that certain of the 
timing gears bear punch marks. These gears are correctly set in relation to 
one another and the positions of the pistons—and the valves therefore 
correctly timed—when the punch marks coincide (are in line) with one 
another. A series of marks, made use of in timing the valves as well as the 
ignition, is inscribed on the fly-wheel, also these marks are visible through 
removal of the toe boards. 

Valve Timing When New Gears are Installed —When replacing the 
crankshaft or camshaft timing gear with a new one, it will be necessary to 
retime the valves, and the ignition, also; see chapter XVI, part three, for 
details of this latter operation. 

Remove the cylinder head (see Grinding the Valves) . Crank the engine 
by hand until No. 1 piston (the one nearest the radiator) has reached its upper¬ 
most position, when any further movement will cause it to descend; this posi¬ 
tion is known as upper dead center.* 

Continue very carefully to crank the engine until No. 1 piston has moved 
downward exactly ts" (1.58 mm.); it is at this point that the inlet valve should 
open. 

Remove the starting crank, as the piston must not be again moved until 
the timing operation has been completed; replace the cylinder head and the 
valve push rods. 

* The upper dead center can also be found by means of a screwdriver inserted through the 
spark plug hole in No. 1 cylinder, so as to touch the top of the piston, but this method is not 
as accurate as the method outlined above. See fig. 9. 





MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


55 


Install the new timing gear, engaging it with the old one (already in place) 
in such a manner that the inlet valve of No. 1 cylinder begins to open when the 
new gear is fully in place. Great care must be exercised exactly to ascertain 
this point, because, due to the obliquely cut teeth of the timing gears, the 
camshaft is slightly rotated when the new gear is pushed into place. 

The point at which the inlet valve begins to open can be accurately de¬ 
termined by inserting a piece of heavy letter paper between the valve rocker 
and the valve stem. Move the paper back and forth in this position whilst 
meshing the gears, and as soon as any tightness is felt, that is, when the paper 
can no longer be freely moved, the valve is beginning to open. It may be 
necessary to set the gears in several positions before this point can be located. 

Mark the Gears —When the valves are correctly timed and the timing 
gears installed, permanently mark the latter—a punch mark on a tooth of one 
gear and another punch mark between two teeth of the other gear, the punch 
marks to be in line with one another when the gears are in place, but only at 
that point at which the inlet valve in No. 1 cylinder should begin to open. 

Valve Clearance —Too large or too small valve clearance causes faulty 
operation of the engine. When the clearance is too large, a loud clicking 
noise is heard in the valves, which are not completely opened; more or less 



Left—Generator driving gear 
Center—Camshaft timing gear 
Right—Crankshaft timing gear 



56 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


decrease in power results. Too small a valve clearance causes lessened power, 
also, because rn this case the valves do not close completely and compression 
is therefore poor. 



Fig. 9. Locating Upper Dead Center 


1 Screwdriver 

2 Spark plug hole 


3 Piston 

4 Connecting rod 


5 Starting crank 


When the valves do not close because of too small clearance, they and 
their seats in the cylinder head are damaged by constant exposure to the hot 
gases. Whenever this condition is encountered, the valve affected should be 
ground and the clearance adjusted. 

To adjust, proceed as follows: Crank the engine by hand until the valve 
whose clearance is to be adjusted has opened and closed, continuing the 
cranking Lsth to 3Tth of a revolution of the hand crank beyond the 
closing point of the valve. 

Loosen the lock-nut (B, fig 10) at the right hand end of the valve rocker. 
Insert a thickness gauge (a piece of sheet metal of appropriate thickness; see 
fig. 12) between the valve rocker and the valve stem. Turn the adjusting- 
screw up or down until the thickness gauge is quite tightly held between the 
valve rocker and the valve stem. At this point, securely hold the adjusting- 
screw from turning farther and tighten the lock-nut; the adjustment is cor¬ 
rectly made when, on removing the gauge, a slight resistance is felt. 



























MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


57 


The valve clearance is the space between the valve rocker and the valve 
stem, measured when the valve is fully closed. This space should measure 
0.006 ,/ (0.15 mm.) for both inlet and exhaust valves, when the engine is 
hot or at least very warm. 



Fig. 10. Valve Push Rods 

A. Valve clearance adjusting-screw 

B. Valve clearance adjusting-screw 

lock-nut 

C. Valve rocker oil felt 
D Valve push rod 

E. Valve lifter 


If a thickness gauge is not available for use, a sheet of heavy letter paper 
or very light card, either of which is about 0.006" (0.15 mm.) in thickness, 
can be used. 

Caution— In turning the fly-wheel to any of the timing marks on it, as 
in timing the valves or the ignition, be careful to turn it only in a clockwise 
direction—to the right, the direction in which the engine runs, viewed when 







































58 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


facing the front of the engine—otherwise back-lash in the timing gears (loose¬ 
ness or play between their teeth) will prevent accurate results. 

Routine Care —The valve stems, the valve rockers, the oil felts, the 
valve lifters, and the valve lifter guides require periodical lubrication; they 
should also be frequently washed with gasoline or kerosene. Be guided in this 
respect by the instructions in part two, ROUTINE CARE. 

Apply a teaspoonful of kerosene and engine oil (50% of each) weekly 
(every 250 miles; 500 km.) to each valve stem and valve stem guide whilst 
the engine is running. This treatment reduces carbon accumulations on the 
valves, prevents their sticking in their guides, and lubricates them. 



Fig. 11. Measuring Valve Clearance 

A. Valve rocker B. Thickness gauge C. Valve stem D. Valve spring 

Failure properly to lubricate the valves, valve stem guides, and other 
parts of the valve mechanism results in bent or even broken parts, in addition 
to rapid wear. Faulty engine operation follows; power decreases; fuel and oil 
costs are augmented. 

Testing the Compression— Due to leaks at various points, such as 
valves in poor condition, worn pistons and piston rings, loose or broken spark 
plugs, defective cylinder head gasket, etc., the compression in the cylinders 
lessens; in other words, the full power of the expansion of the burning gases is 
not exerted against the pistons to drive the car. The efficiency and economy 
of the engine are therefore adversely affected. 

Test the compression whilst the engine is^hot, or at least.very warm; each 
cylinder is, of course, individually tested. Insert the hand crank and slowly 

















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


59 


pull up on it, noting whether the degree of resistance encountered is the same 
in each cylinder. If a marked difference is noted in one or more cylinders, take 
immediate steps to correct the condition, such as grinding the valves, cleaning 
or replacing piston rings, fitting new (oversize) pistons,* tightening cylinder 
head bolts, fitting new cylinder head gasket, etc. 

Compression leaks are not difficult to detect. Loose or broken spark plugs 
cause a rather loud hissing sound when the engine is running or being cranked, 
as do a poor cylinder head gasket and loose cylinder head bolts; these latter 
are also responsible for the accumulation of water in the cylinders and leakage 



of water at the joint between the cylinders and the cylinder head. Worn or 
broken piston rings or pistons cause rapid crankcase dilution and give off a 
peculiar, purring sound, quite audible when the engine is throttled down; it 
is best heard through removal of the oil filler tube cap. 

If the compression is poor, tighten the spark plugs and the cylinder head 
bolts (whilst the engine is hot or very warm), and should the condition persist, 
grind the valves. Then, if these measures fail, have a capable shop examine 
the pistons and rings and make the necessary repairs. 

Grinding the Valves —Drain the cooling system by opening the drain 
cock (3, fig. 37) and disconnect the engine water outlet (the elbow-shaped pipe 
at the front end of the cylinder head), taking care not to damage its gasket. 
Disconnect the inlet manifold and exhaust pipe, being careful not to injure 
their gaskets. Remove the spark plugs to protect them from breakage and 
then the cylinder head bolts. Lift off the cylinder head, guarding against 
injury to the cylinder head gasket. 

To remove a valve, place the cylinder head on a flat, wooden surface and 
press down on the valve spring retainer (the cup-like washer at the top of the 
valve spring), to permit removal of the valve spring retainer lock (a small 
cotter-pin holding the valve spring retainer in place). Mark the valve nearest 
the front end of the cylinder head No. 1 and the next No. 2, and so on to No. 8 
—the rearmost valve, to prevent their being mixed. 

* Only when accompanied by piston-slap. 







60 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Turn the other side of the cylinder head up, remove the valves, and care¬ 
fully wash and scrape them, their guides (their bearings in the cylinder head), 
and the cylinder head free of carbon, oil, etc. Clean the cylinders and pistons 
in the same manner. Avoid scratching these parts, as this would promote 
the rapid formation of fresh accumulations of carbon. If the valve stems 
are rough or gummed, polish them with fine emery cloth or paper. 



Apply a thin coating of a good valve grinding compound (fine emery 
powder mixed with engine oil to the consistency of a rather thin paste will 
suffice) to the beveled edge of the valve. Insert the valve into the opening 
from which it was removed and turn it back and forth on the valve seat (in 
the cylinder head) until the beveled edge and the seat are well polished. 
During this process it will be necessary frequently to wipe off the beveled edge 
and the seat with a cloth wet with gasoline or kerosene to note the finish. 

Do not rotate the valve continuously in one direction, but give it a 
quarter-turn one way and a half- to a third-turn the other, and frequently lift 
it clear of the seat. If the valve is not rotated on its seat farther in one direc¬ 
tion than in the other, and rotated still farther when lifted clear of its seat, 
the valve and its seat will be badly scored; deep rings, very difficult to remove, 
will be cut in the valve and its seat. Rings or scores and pits must be com¬ 
pletely removed before a tight valve can be had; the grinding must be continued 
until the valve and its seat show a uniform, dull, grey surface. 

Caution: Remove Every Vestige of the Grinding Compound —On 
completing the grinding, thoroughly wash the valves, their seats and guides, 






MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


61 


and the adjacent parts of the cylinder head with gasoline. Take the utmost 
care that no vestige of grinding material remain on any part of the 
valves or cylinder head, for the entrance of such matter into the cylinders 
will prove most destructive. 

Test the quality of the finished grinding by marking the beveled edge of 
the valve or its seat with lead pencil or chalk. Turn the valve against its 
seat a few times; if the marks are entirely rubbed off, the work has been 
well done; if not, grinding must be continued. 



The use of a valve grinding tool for this work greatly facilitates its prompt 
and easy completion, or a carpenter’s brace or bitstock will be satisfactory. 
Much better and more easily accomplished results can be obtained in this 
manner than by means of a screwdriver—the usual tool. 

In the event that the valves are in very bad condition and a good, tight 
seat can not be obtained by grinding, it will be necessary to turn them down 
(smooth off the beveled edge) in a lathe or other suitable tool and then grind 
them. 

Always adjust the valve clearance after grinding the valves, as this latter 
operation removes a certain amount of metal from the valves and seats and 
thus increases the valve clearance. 

Before placing the valves in the cylinder head, oil the valve stems and 
the valve stem guides. 

Replacing the Cylinder Head —Examine the cylinder head gasket; if 
those parts adjacent to the cylinder openings and the water holes are free from 
marks or depressions and the surface is smooth and unbroken, it can be used 
again; otherwise, replace it. Never shellac the cylinders, the cylinder head, or 
the cylinder head gasket. Before placing the gasket in position, apply a coating 









62 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


of soft cup grease to both sides to hold it in position on the cylinders whilst the 
head is being installed and to prevent its possible corrosion or adhesion to 
the cylinders or cylinder head on future removal. See Hose Connections, 
p. 103. 

Caution —When the cylinder head is in place, insert the cap screws 
and turn each one down until its head just touches the cylinder head. Then, 
with a wrench, tighten each one a little at a time, until all are equally tight. 
Tighten the cap screws in the order shown in figure 16; when the engine has 
been run and is hot, tighten them again, in the manner stated above. Replace 
the remainder of the parts, taking particular care not to damage any of the 
gaskets, and fill the radiator. 



Valve Springs —A broken or weak valve spring will cause the engine to 
run badly. To locate such a spring, insert a screw driver or similar tool between 
the coils of the spring whilst the engine is running and twist or turn the tool, 
thus increasing the spring tension. If this has a marked effect on the running 
of the engine and causes it to improve, replace the spring under test. 

The tension of a valve spring can be temporarily increased by removing 
it and stretching it about 1 inch (25 mm.); or the same effect can be secured by 
placing a number of washers between the spring and the spring retainer. In 
a short time, however, the spring will have to be replaced 






















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


63 


Bent Valve Stems —A bent valve stem sometimes results from accident; 
generally, however, it is due to carelessness or to lack of lubrication or clean¬ 
liness. A valve in this condition sticks open, causing the engine to run badly. 
Remove such a valve and straighten and polish its stem; if a satisfactory repair 
does not result, replace it, taking care to grind the new one fitted and also to 
adjust its clearance. 



Scored Cylinders —Defective lubrication or improper use or care of the 
engine may cause scored cylinders; scored pistons or broken piston rings may 
also result. It is necessary to regrind scored cylinders and to fit them with 
oversize pistons; if only the pistons or piston rings are damaged, replace them 
with carefully fitted new ones of the proper size. 

Removing Pistons —The pistons can be removed either through the 
crankcase or through removal of the cylinder'head, but inasmuch as it is also 
necessary to disconnect the connecting rod bearing to remove a piston, it is 
best to drain and then drop the oil pan arid take out the piston and connecting 
rod through the opening thus provided. 

The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by the piston pins, which 
are fixed in the pistons by special cap-screws and lock-washers. To remove 
a piston from a connecting rod, unscrew the cap-screw with a heavy screw¬ 
driver and gently tap the piston pin out of the piston, using a light hammer 
and a block of hard wood. 

Piston Rings —Exercise great care in removing piston rings from pistons, 
as they are easily broken Insert a knife blade or similar tool (see fig. 18) 
between the ring to be removed and the piston, slipping the knife blade around 
the piston, at the same time lifting the ring out and up with the hand, working 
it off the piston in this manner. 

This operation is reversed (see fig. 18) in installing piston rings, but equal 
care must be exercised; three knife blades are used instead of one. Slip the 
piston ring over the top of the piston, but do not let it drop into the first piston 
ring groove. Insert the three knife blades between the piston ring and the 





































64 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


piston at equidistant points, and slide the ring down on them until the groove 
in which the ring is to be placed has been reached, when the knife blades 
may be withdrawn. 

Caution —New pistons must be fitted to cylinders and new piston rings 
to pistons, as good results can not be otherwise had. In every case it is best 
to have an expert mechanic do this work, as it calls for not a little skill and 
judgment. 



Fig. 17. Testing the Tension of a Valve Spring 


Carbon —Accumulations of carbon in the cylinders are manifested by 
pronounced knocking in the engine whilst climbing a hill or undergoing a heavy 
pull, especially when the engine is hot. In many respects, a carbon knock is 
similar to that of too far advanced spark in that it is a rather light sound, 
quite different from the noise produced by a loose connecting rod or main 
bearing. If such a knock is heard whilst climbing a hill and retarding the 
spark has no effect on it, carbon is undoubtedly the cause. 

Removal of Carbon —Carbon can be readily removed by means of an 
oxygen torch introduced into the cylinders through the spark plug holes 
Better results are had, however, by taking off the cylinder head and scraping 
and washing it and the cylinders clean; be careful not to scratch the surfaces, 
as this will promote.the rapid formation of fresh accumulations of carbon. 

When carbon accumulations have been neglected, it may be necessary to 
remove the pistons and piston rings to clean out the carbon that will then have 
lodged in the piston ring grooves, preventing the piston rings from functioning 
properly and thus causing poor compression. 

Adjusting Engine Bearings —To adjust an engine bearing, proceed as 
follows: 























MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


65 


Drain and remove the oil pan. Examine all the bearings to locate the 
loose one, which can be easily detected by pushing against it and pulling it 
and noting whether it moves. (In examining an engine bearing for looseness, 
do not confuse end play with vertical play. A bearing — connecting rod, for 
example—may have end play, that is, it may slide lengthwise on a ctankpin 
and yet have no vertical play or looseness. Vertical play is wear, in which 
case the bearing is larger in diameter than the shaft it is fitted to.)* 



Fig. 18. Left—Removing Piston Rings Right—Installing Piston Rings 


Remove the bearing bolts and then the bearing cap; the latter contains 
the lower half of the bearing. In doing this work, be very careful to keep the 
two sets of shims (thin metal liners or spacers) separate, and do not forget 
to examine the upper half of the bearing to see that none of the shims is adher¬ 
ing to it. Before removing the bearing, mark the upper and lower halves so 
that in replacing them they will be installed in the same positions they were 
in before removal. 

Always remove the same number of shims from each side of the 
bearing. Replace the remaining shims and the bearing cap, being careful 
not to bend the former, insert the bolts, and draw the nuts up tight. If the 
bearing is still loose, remove additional shims (the same number from each 
side) and replace the cap as before. Continue in this manner until the bear¬ 
ing is tight, when the nuts should be tightly drawn up and the split pins 
(use new ones) inserted and bent to prevent the nuts from working loose. 



















66 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


If several bearings are loose, tighten and then loosen each one separately 
before proceeding with the next loose one, and then tighten all and replace and 
bend the split pins. 

Do not tighten the bearings too much or the crankpins will be damaged 
or the bearings themselves burned out; it should be possible quite easily to 
turn the crankshaft after the bearings have been correctly adjusted. 

Installing Main Bearings—In order to remove or to install the upper 
halves of the front and rear main bearings, the crankshaft must be removed 
from the engine. When fitting a new upper half to the rear main bearing, cut a 
small notch in one of the corners of the inside (front) end of the bearing so as 
to provide an oilway. 

Removal of the crankshaft is a difficult operation and should be under¬ 
taken only by a skilled mechanic. It is best accomplished by lifting the engine 
from the frame, this being done after the bolts holding the clutch hub to the 
clutch gear shaft, and the clutch operating mechanism and the radiator have 
been removed. 

After the bearings have been fitted, every care must be exercised correctly 
to align the engine with the transmission. 

Caution: Use Plenty of Oil; Do not Run the Engine Fast—Replace 
the oil pan and pour into it 5 quarts (4.1 imp. qts., 4.73 litres) instead of the 
usual four (3.3 imp. qts., 3.78 litres). Start the engine and let it run at a low 
rate of speed for three or four hours before using the car; do not exceed a 
speed of 25 miles (40 km.) an hour for the first 100 miles (150 km.) thereafter. 

Caution: Oil Pan—In carrying out the above or other operations in¬ 
volving the removal of the oil pan, always take advantage of such opportunities 
to wash it, the oil screen, and the connecting rod oil troughs before replacing it. 

Loose Fly-Wheel Bolts—An extremely rare and very puzzling knock 
is caused by the loosening of the bolts holding the fly-wheel to the crankshaft, 
a condition accompanied by a heavy thumping, intermittent in intensity and 
interval. If this knock is traced to the fly-wheel bolts—all other causes 
having already been eliminated, test the fly-wheel bolts for looseness by 
endeavoring to rock the fly-wheel back and forth. If a movement other than 
that which would naturally result from such a procedure—turning of the 
crankshaft—is noted, the fly-wheel bolts are loose. The remedy is removal 
of the transmission and tightening of the bolts. 

It is not at all a difficult or arduous task properly to care for 
an engine’s needs—if this care be in the form of periodical cleaning, 
tightening, and lubrication of the various parts at regular and fre¬ 
quent intervals. If, however, the engine receives care only occasionally, 
when the car owner has nothing better to do, it may fail him when 
he most needs it. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


67 


CHAPTER II 

THE CLUTCH 

Why a Clutch is Necessary —In setting a motor car in motion, it is 
necessary first to start the engine and then, with the engine running, to start 
the car. This condition is met by introducing between the engine and the 
transmission a coupling device which, at the will of the operator, establishes 
a rigid connection of the engine with the transmission or breaks this con¬ 
nection, as may be required in operating the car. 



1 Clutch pedal 

2 Brake pedal 

3 Oil can 

4 Clutch pedal adjusting- 

screw 

5 Clutch cone 

6 Transmission bolts 

7 Clutch hub 


8 Transmission support 

arm 

9 Clutch leather ex¬ 
pander 

10 Clutch release bearing 

oil pipe 

11 Clutch release yoke 

12 Clutch release bearing 


The Friction Clutch —The device with which this is accomplished is 
known as a friction clutch, deriving this name from its property of setting up 





















CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


68 


so much friction when in operation that it holds without slippage to that part 
of the engine to which it is attached; its more common designation is clutch. 



Fig. 20. Clutch Mechanism 


1 Clutch lining 

2 Clutch cone 

3 Clutch spring retain- 

ing-washer 

4 Clutch release bearing. 

oil reservoir 

5 Clutch release bearing 

6 Clutch hub 


7 Clutch spring retainer 

pin 

8 Clutch spring tension 

rod 

9 Clutch spring 

10 Clutch spring thrust 

. bearing 

11 Clutch leather ex¬ 

pander 


For small, light, low-powered cars the leather-faced cone is ideal. It is 
simple to a degree, has a very long life, and requires a minimum of attention 
to keep it in perfect working order. Replacement of the frictional surface of 
the clutch cone—its leather lining—is readily and inexpensively effected, but 
this is seldom necessary in the case of your clutch because the amount of work 

































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


69 


it is called upon to do is small as compared with many other cars of the same 
type, due principally to the power and flexibility of the engine. 

Clutch Leather Expanders—In order to ensure easy engagement of the 
clutch and to proyide means for slipping it when such action becomes neces¬ 
sary, the clutch is fitted with six clutch leather expanders. These expanders 
are placed under the clutch leather and present six slightly raised points of 
contact; they function to prevent the clutch from taking hold too quickly and 
they therefore act as a safeguard against sudden strains damaging other parts 
of the transmission mechanism. 



Fig. 21. Removing Clutch Spring 

A. Clutch spring tension rod’ F. Slotted pipe coupling 

B. Clutch spring G. Hook bolt 

C. Clutch spring retainer H. Steel bar 

D. Clutch spring retainer pin hole J. Clutch hub 

E. Clutch spring retainer pin K. Slotted pipe coupling 





































































70 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


A Slipping Clutch—A slipping clutch can readily be detected by running 
the car in high gear, throttling down to six or seven miles (10 km.) an hour, 
and gently applying either the foot or the hand brake, the clutch not being 
disengaged; if the engine shows a marked tendency to stop, or labors heavily, 
the clutch is holding; if the speed of the engine is but little affected by this 
treatment, the clutch is not holding properly and should be adjusted or 
cleaned. 



Fig. 22. Removing Clutch Spring 

A. Clutch spring retainer pin hole B. Clutch hub C. Steel bar 


Slipping of the clutch is caused by a badly worn clutch leather (lining), 
oil or grease on the leather, improperly adjusted clutch pedal or clutch leather 
expanders, riding the clutch pedal, or a broken clutch spring. 

Accumulations of dirt and grease on the front (squared) end of the clutch 
gear shaft (5, fig. 26) on which the clutch hub (7, fig. 19) slides will cause 
slipping, also. Such accumulations will set up a gummy condition of the sur¬ 
faces that will prevent the clutch from seating fully in the fly-wheel and slip¬ 
ping will result. The remedy is washing with gasoline or kerosene from time 
to time, as directed in ROUTINE CARE, and the application of a few 
drops of engine oil. 

Harsh Clutch Action—Harsh clutch action—too rapid engagement— 
is caused by improperly adjusted clutch expanders, a dry, burned, or glazed 
clutch leather, or because the latter has a gummy coating that causes it to 
adhere to the fly-wheel. 

In such a case, adjust the clutch expanders correctly. If this does not 
remedy the condition, wash the clutch leather with gasoline and, when dry, 
apply neats-foot oil to soften it. 

















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


71 


Worn Clutch Leather—It is best to have a worn clutch leather replaced 
by a reliable repair shop. However, if this is not convenient, proceed as follows: 

Remove the clutch control mechanism and the transmission (see page 77). 
Remove the clutch spring, using for this purpose a tool similar to that illus¬ 
trated in figure 21. Place the slotted pipe coupling shown in figure 21 between 
the steel bar of the tool and the clutch spring, so that the clutch spring tension 
rod will pass through the hole in the pipe coupling and the clutch spring re¬ 
tainer pin will be in the slotted portion; see figure 21. 



1. Inserting clutch cone into clutch leather 2. Riveting clutch leather 

A. Clutch cone B. Clutch leather C. Clutch leather rivet 

Alternately tighten each of the nuts of the tool until the clutch spring 
has been compressed sufficiently to permit the clutch spring retainer pin being 
driven out through the hole in the clutch hub. The clutch can now be removed. 

These operations are reversed in replacing the clutch and the clutch 
spring. Be sure to place the clutch spring retainer washer between the clutch 
spring and the slotted pipe coupling and to keep the slots of the latter in a 












72 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


vertical position before applying pressure to the clutch spring. The clutch 
spring must be sufficiently compressed to permit inserting the clutch spring 
retainer pin through the hole in the clutch hub into the hole in the clutch 
spring tension rod, when the tool can be removed. 

Fitting the New Lining—Whilst removing the old clutch leather from 
the clutch cone by cutting the rivets which hold it in place, soak the new 
leather in water, so that it will stretch slightly. Then slip it over the clutch 
cone, as shown in figure 23, resting the smaller diameter of the leather on a 
perfectly flat surface. Press the clutch cone evenly into the leather, slightly 
tapping the edge of the clutch cone on its larger circumference, until it is com¬ 
pletely within the leather. 

Punch or drill holes in the clutch leather to correspond with those in the 
clutch cone and then countersink them. Insert the rivets as shown in figure 
23. Sink the rivet heads below the surface of the leather by slipping the split 
ends of the rivets over a chisel and tapping them with a light ball-headed 
hammer or similar tool; the rivet heads must be slightly below the surface of 
the leather. Spread the split ends of the rivets as much as possible. 

Oil or Grease on the Clutch Leather—Accumulations of oil or grease 
on the clutch leather can be readily removed by washing with gasoline, using 
a stiff bristle brush and a syringe. This operation can be facilitated by holding 
the clutch disengaged by means of a stick placed between the clutch pedal and 
the front of the front seat and the clutch then turned by hand to reach all its 
parts. Wipe the clutch leather dry with a clean cloth before removing the 
stick. 

Fullers’ earth is sometimes sprinkled on the clutch leather to prevent 
slipping caused by oil or grease; it is best, however, to wash the leather. 
Under no circumstances use resin, powdered sulphur, or other similar materials, 
as they injure the clutch leather and may even entail its replacement. 

Clutch Leather Expanders—Improperly adjusted clutch leather 
expanders may cause slipping. In such a case, turn each expander nut from 
the left to the right until it just touches the clip in which it is mounted, and 
then give it one-half a turn in the opposite direction; unscrewing the clutch 
expander nut in this manner permits the expander plunger to function properly 
under the clutch leather. 

Every care must be exercised that the same adjustment is made on each 
clutch leather expander, as unequal adjustment will cause the clutch to seat 
unevenly in the fly-wheel. Such a condition causes the leather adjacent to the 
too tightly adjusted expander to burn, due to the excessive friction thus 
caused at this point; it also causes the clutch to squeak or rasp in engaging. 

Clutch Pedal Adjustment—If the clutch pedal is adjusted so closely as 
to strike the toe-board before the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch will slip. 
This difficulty can be overcome by loosening the adjusting-screw (4, fig. 19), 
and moving the clutch pedal to a position where it will not quite touch the 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


73 


bottom of the toe-board when the clutch is engaged, securely locking it in this 
position by tightening the adjusting-bolt. 

Broken Clutch Spring—If, when the clutch is slipping badly, no resist¬ 
ance is felt when the clutch is disengaged, or if the clutch pedal does not return 
to the engaged position when the foot is removed, in all probability the clutch 
spring is broken; a new clutch spring, therefore, should be installed (see instruc¬ 
tions for removing the clutch under Worn Clutch Leather). 


Fig. 24. Clutch Spring 

A. Thrust bearing ball C. Clutch spring 

B. Thrust bearing D. Clutch spring tension rod 

E. Clutch spring retainer pin 

Clutch Release Bearing Lubrication—It is important that the clutch 
release bearing have frequent lubrication. This part consists of a hollow 
bronze casting fitted with wooden plugs through which the oil exudes to the 
frictional surface, the interior of the casting serving as an oil reservoir. 

The lubricant is supplied by hand, by means of an oil can or oil syringe, 
through an oil pipe (10, fig. 19) leading to the oil reservoir. 

Riding the Clutch Pedal—Driving with the left foot resting on the 
clutch pedal—known as riding the clutch pedal—should be avoided. This 






















74 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


practice results in unnecessary wear of the clutch lining and, particularly, of 
the clutch release bearing, and causes the latter in a short time to become 
worn and noisy. The clutch tends to slip, also, because of the slight—though 
unconscious—pressure applied to it by the driver’s foot. 

Due to the nature of the clutch construction and the difficulties 
involved in its assembly and disassembly without more or less special 
tool equipment, it is most inadvisable for the car owner to attempt 
such work himself unless he is a highly skilled mechanic; the manu¬ 
facturer urges that it be entrusted to a well-equipped shop. 



A. Clutch leather expander plunger 

B. Clutch leather expander adjusting-nut 











MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


75 


CHAPTER III 

THE TRANSMISSION 

Why the Transmission is Necessary—Because of the inability of an 
internal combustion engine to start under a load, that is, to set the car in 
motion simultaneously with the starting of the engine, it is necessary to 
interpose between the engine and the final drive to the rear wheels some form 
of gear reduction apparatus that will permit the engine to operate at a high 
rate of speed and the car at a low rate, or vice versa; or in any combination 
of these two conditions. In addition to this, it is necessary to vary the speed 
of a motor car to suit road conditions or to meet the whims of the driver, and 
whilst this condition can be met to a certain extent by varying the speed of 
the engine, other means must be resorted to since this in itself does not suffice 
in actual practice. Furthermore, it must be remembered that although a 
gasoline engine is capable of operating over a very wide range of speeds, it 
develops only a small proportion of its power whilst running most slowly; its 
maximum output occurs at its highest rate of speed or very nearly so 

A device that meets all these requirements is to be found in the auto¬ 
mobile change-speed gear or transmission. There are a number of forms of 
this mechanism employed by various makers, but the one in practically 
universal use is the three speed, sliding gear, selective type—the type fitted 
to your car. 

The Speeds—When low speed is in use, the greatest amount of power is 
transmitted to the rear wheels, for the engine is then running at a high rate 
of speed and the car at a low one. It is used for starting the car and for un¬ 
usually steep hills, deep mud, sand, snow, etc., in short, whenever the maximum 
power is required. 

Second speed is an intermediate speed between low and top. With it 
engaged, the engine runs a little more slowly than on first and the rear wheels— 
and hence the car—more rapidly, but with less power. Second speed is brought 
into use in driving when negotiating hills or heavy going that are too much for 
high. 

The greatest car speed, but the least engine speed, is had on third, and 
therefore the least power; it is the normal gear for ordinary running, such as 
not overstiff grades, in traffic, and the like. Third or “top” is sometimes 
termed “direct drive,” or “direct on third,” for the power is then transmitted 
from the engine to the propeller shaft, and thence to the rear axle, without 
passing through any of the countershaft gears. It should be used at all times 
whilst running unless road or traffic conditions make the use of a lower gear 
necessary. 

Reverse, of course, is for running backward. As it is somewhat more 
powerful than first speed, a very heavy pull that can not be made even on first 
can sometimes be made on reverse. 


76 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



1 Gearshift lever 

2 Gearshift rod 

3 Gearshifter forks 

4 Transmission shaft 

front bearing 

5 Clutch gear shaft 

6 Clutch gear 

7 Clutch gear bearing 

8 High and second speed 

sliding gear 


Fig. 

26. Transmission 

9 

Countershaft 

10 

Gearshifter collar 

11 

Countershaft gear 

12 

Drain plug 

13 

Countershaft second 


speed gear 

14 

Brake hand lever 

15 

Transmission cover 

16 

Transmission shaft 

17 

Universal joint ball- 


socket 


18 Transmission shaft rear 

bearing 

19 Reverse idler gear 

20 Reverse and low speed 

sliding gear 

21 Reverse idler shaft 

driving gear 

22 Countershaft low speed 

gear 










































































































































































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


77 


Care of the Transmission—A transmission of the type described above 
requires attention mainly in the matter of routine care. The very simplicity 
and compactness of its construction are the factors that make it more desirable 
from the owner’s point of view than transmissions employed in other and 
similar makes of cars. The car owner will find these qualities especially 
valuable when repairs or adjustments are made, for they permit large econo¬ 
mies in labor and therefore in labor charges. 

Draining the Oil—After cleaning the combined filler and level plug 
(14, fig. 4), remove it and the drain plug (12, fig. 26). When all the oil has 
drained out, replace the drain plug and pour 2 quarts (2 litres) of gasoline or 
kerosene through the filler plug hole into the transmission case. 

Run the engine for a few minutes, thus circulating the gasoline or kerosene 
throughout the case; jack up one of the rear wheels and shift the various 
gears, running for a minute or two on each. 

Again remove the drain plug and, when all dripping has ceased, securely 
replace it and fill the transmission to the level of the filler plug hole with 
transmission oil (see chapter III, part one, for oil specifications); securely 
replace the filler plug. 

Filling with Oil—Very carefully remove all dirt from the combined 
level and filler plug and pour sufficient oil into the opening to overflow; 
securely replace the plug and wipe the surplus oil from the side of the case. 

Gearshift Locks—Small plungers, held in engagement with grooves in 
the gearshift shafts by springs, lock the sliding gears in their respective posi¬ 
tions—neutral, low, etc.; they are accessible by removal of two plugs in the 
transmission case cover. Their function is to ensure the full width of the teeth 
of each gear being held in contact with the full width of the teeth of its com¬ 
panion gear; if less than the full width were used, the wear, being then dis¬ 
tributed over a smaller surface, would be proportionately greater. 

If a gear persistently slips out of mesh whilst the car is running, it may 
be because of worn lock plungers or gearshift forks, and general looseness and 
wear, such as of the gear teeth, etc. If the former, a temporary repair may 
possibly be made by inserting washers between the upper ends of the lock 
springs and the plugs that hold them in place, but the one sure cure is replace¬ 
ment of the worn parts; if the gearshift forks are at fault, replacement is the 
only remedy. 

Removing the Transmission—Remove the floor and toe boards, and 
disconnect the rod running from the hand brake lever to the brake cross 
shafts (mounted on the frame crossmember close to the rear end of the frame). 
Remove the bolts (F, fig. 27) from the universal joint housing and those in the 
clutch hub (7, fig. 19) immediately to the rear of the clutch release bearing 
(12, fig. 19), as well as the two holding the front end of the transmission to its 
support arms (8, fig. 19). Lift the front end of the transmission so as to slip 
the universal joint off the front end of the propeller shaft, when the trans¬ 
mission can be lifted out of the car; or it can be dropped and slid out. 


78 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


As a general thing, it is most inadvisable for the average car owner to 
undertake extensive repair operations of this nature unaided by skilled help 
and he is, therefore, requested, in the event of such repair work becoming 
necessary, to entrust his car to a reputable repair shop. 

In gearshifting apply the following simple rule: Never, under 
any circumstances whilst the engine is running, or the car in motion 
and the engine at rest, move the gearshift lever without first having 
disengaged the clutch, holding the clutch in this position until the 
gearshift lever is in one of the speed positions or in neutral. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


79 


CHAPTER IV 

THE UNIVERSAL JOINT AND PROPELLER SHAFT 

The universal joint consists of two yokes (fork-like pieces) held at right 
angles to each other by means of the two universal joint rings; it is encased in a 
ball-shaped housing which completely prevents the entrance of road dirt, etc. 
Its lubrication, and that of the bushing close to the front end of the propeller 
shaft, is ensured in an ingenious manner by taking advantage of the leakage of 
oil past the transmission shaft rear bearing. 



Fig. 27. Universal Joint 

A. Speedometer driving gear E. Universal joint pin 

B. Universal joint ball socket F. Ball retainer collar bolt 

C. Universal joint ball retainer collar G. Universal joint ring 

D. Universal joint ring H. Propeller shaft 


The Propeller Shaft Bearings —The rear end of the propeller shaft is 
mounted in two large ball bearings, one of these being of the double row type, 
that is, two rows of balls are employed instead of the more usual one, thus 
ensuring greater strength and longer life at this point. 

The Torque Tube —The propeller shaft and its bearings are enclosed 
in the torque tube, thus protecting these parts against the entrance of foreign 
matter. In addition to this, the torque tube does what its name implies— 
it compensates torque reaction, that is, it prevents the rear axle housing from 
rotating around the axle shafts when power or the brakes are applied—as when 
the car is driven or the brakes used. 

Care —The universal joint and other parts of the propeller shaft require 
but little attention. Cleanliness, periodical tightening of the various bolts 
















80 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 28. Propeller Shaft (Bevel Pinion Shaft) Bearings 


A. Bearing spacer 

E. 

Lock sleeve lock screw and lock nut 

B. Lock sleeve 

F. 

Propeller shaft 

C. Lock nut lock screw 

G. 

Bevel pinion front bearing 

D. Lock nut 

H. 

Bevel pinion rear bearing 


and nuts, and ensurance of lubrication by keeping the transmission filled to 
the right level with oil are all that is needed to,obtain satisfactory service 
and freedom from wear. 



































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


81 


CHAPTER V 

REAR AXLE 

The Differential —In rounding a turn, it is obvious that the wheel on 
the inside has the shorter path to follow. In wagon construction, for example, 
all the wheels are free to turn on their axles and they therefore automatically 
accommodate themselves to the different distances they have to cover; hence, 
the inside wheels rotate a fewer number of times (cover a shorter distance) 
than those on the outside. 

This is not true of the rear wheels of a motor car, although it is of the 
front ones; in the former case they are keyed fast to the axle shafts and must 
turn with them. As a result, in rounding a turn one wheel would slide or 
scrape around were not some device employed to eliminate this action by 
automatically decreasing the speed of the inside wheel. 

This requisite is met through the use of the differential, which causes one 
rear wheel to rotate a greater number of times than the other. Thus, when a 
car is running along a straight stretch of road, both rear wheels roll at the same 
rate of speed—or approximately so—and cover the same distance, but when 
turning a corner the inside wheel rotates at a slower rate and therefore covers 
a shorter distance. It is this device, also, that permits of one of the rear wheels, 
when it is jacked up, being driven whilst the other remains at rest. 

Briefly, the differential enables the rear wheels simultaneously to turn 
at different rates of speed whenever this may be necessary. 

Mud, Snow, Etc. —A similar action takes place when the rear wheels 
are in mud, snow, sand, etc., or on ice, but in these cases the wheel in the mud, 
snow, or the like, being the easier to turn because of the slippery nature of 
the material it is running in, receives all the power and therefore rotates 
without driving the car. It is for this reason that it is necessary, in driving 
through mud, snow, or other slippery material, to use chains or non-skid 
tyres—preferably the former—to prevent slipping or skidding of the rear 
wheels. 

Care —The rear axle requires but little care except with respect to lub¬ 
rication, periodical tightening of the various bolts and nuts, and cleaning. 
The instructions in part two, relative to routine care operations, should be 
followed as closely as circumstances permit, particularly regarding lubrication 
and frequent changing of the oil. 

Changing the Oil —Remove the plug from the bottom of the axle 
housing, draining it. When all dripping has ceased, replace the plug and pour 
1 to 2 quarts (1 to 2 litres) of kerosene or gasoline into the axle through the 
combined filler and level plug hole on the right, rear side of the axle housing. 
Jack up one of the rear wheels and run the differential for two or three minutes 
by means of the engine and one of the speeds, and then drain again. Securely 



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MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


83 


replace the drain plug and fill to the height of the filler hole with transmission 
oil and replace and tighten the filler plug. 

Filling with Oil —Clean the filler plug and the adjacent parts of the 
axle housing and remove the plug. The filler plug hole indicates the level to 
which to fill the rear axle and sufficient oil should be poured into it to over¬ 
flow. Securely replace the plug and wipe off the surplus oil. 

Removing a Rear Wheel —Remove the hub cap. Extract the split pin 
and loosen the castellated nut, screwing the latter outward until its outer face 
projects very slightly beyond the end of the axle shaft; do not entirely 
remove the nut. Place a jack under the axle housing tube and raise the 
wheel clear of the ground. 

Hold a bar of bronze, copper, or brass against the center of the nut and 
strike the bar several sharp blows with a heavy hammer. If a steel or an iron 
bar is used, make certain the nut is screwed far enough to the end of the axle 
shaft to protect the threads of the latter from injury. Avoid striking the nut 
directly with the hammer; if a metal bar is unavailable, use a block of hard 
wood. When the wheel is free, take off the nut and remove the wheel; be careful 
not to lose the key—the long, rectangularly-shaped piece of steel between the 
axle shaft and the wheel hub. 

If difficulty is experienced in loosening the wheel, have someone pull out¬ 
ward on it whilst another person strikes with a hammer. Be careful not to pull 
the car off the jack. 

When replacing the wheel, insert the key, tighten the nut as much as 
possible, and then sharply tap the hub with a block of hard wood or bar of 
soft metal and a heavy hammer and try to tighten the nut further. Replace 
the split pin (it is advisable to use a new one) and bend its ends to prevent 
its slipping out. 

Removing the Axle —Disconnect the brake rods and the brake release 
springs from the brake operating levers (on the rear axle), very slightly raise 
the frame of the car by placing a jack under each side of the frame, close to the 
front side of the rear axle. Remove the bolts holding the springs to the rear 
axle and pull the latter backward and out from under the car. After removing 
the bolts and nuts that hold the transmission to its support, if desired, it 
can be lifted back and up and thus out of the car; or it can be dropped and 
slid out. To replace the axle, the above operation is reversed. Carefully 
enter the splined (ribbed) or front end of the propeller shaft into the universal 
joint. Be careful the spring clip nuts are drawn up as tightly as possible; 
loose spring clips cause broken springs. 

In assembling the rear axle, one point, relative to the installation of the 
bearing spacers (part No. H-134, mounted between the differential bearings 
and the differential; 17, fig. 29), must be carefully looked to: These spacers are 
finished with one side flat and the other with a projection at the center. In 
installing them, place the flat side against the differential (roller) 
bearing, the other being in contact with the hub of the differential side gear. 


84 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Bevel Gear Adjustments, Etc. —Assembly and disassembly of the rear 
axle and adjustment of the bevel gears are difficult tasks, entailing a very high 
degree of mechanical skill and experience to ensure satisfactory results. This 
is particularly true of bevel gear adjusting, for if this latter class of work 
is badly done it is practically certain the gears will be damaged to the extent 
of requiring replacement. Hence, if such work becomes necessary, the manu¬ 
facturer strongly urges the car owner to have it attended to by competent 
mechanics, rather than to attempt it himself. In the long run, it will prove 
more inexpensive to drive an axle in bad condition to a repair shop than to 
undertake repairs or adjustments without adequate knowledge and equipment. 



Fig. 30. Differential 

1 Rear axle housing, 5 Differential bearings 

right half 6 Differential case bolt 

2 Locking-wire 7 Bevel pinion 

3 Bevel gear 8 Propeller shaft rear 

4 Axle shaft, left bearing 

9 Torque tube 
















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


85 


CHAPTER VI 

BRAKES 

In keeping with the other high grade constructional features of your car, 
two complete and independent sets of brakes are fitted, there being four brakes 
in all. Well established standards of practice require that both sets of brakes 
operate directly on the rear wheels, thus applying the maximum braking 
effort where it is most needed and relieving the propeller shaft and other 
transmission parts of the very severe braking strains. Experience has clearly 
demonstrated that this form of brake construction is reliable and highly 
effective. Of the two sets of brakes, one is actuated by a foot pedal whilst the 
other is controlled by a hand lever. 

Brakes require more or less attention because of the nature of their 
function. Brake linings wear in proportion to the degree and severity of 
their use or the correctness of their adjustment; such wear therefore neces¬ 
sitates proportionate compensation. This condition is especially marked dur¬ 
ing the first 250 miles (500 km.) of service, when the brakes must have 
more attention than later in the car’s life. Like other parts, of the car, 
the brakes wear in before assuming their final and permanent shape and 
condition. 

With respect to the use of brakes, a very good rule to follow is never to 
bring one’s car to a stop as quickly as possible except in an emergency. A 
still better rule is to reduce the use of the brakes to a minimum through care¬ 
ful driving, controlling the speed of the car by intelligent use of the throttle 
rather than through unnecessary application of the brakes. 

Equalized Brakes Minimize Tyre Wear and Skidding —In brake 
adjusting, the utmost care must be exercised that each brake band is adjusted 
to hold as strongly as the other in the same set—-either foot or hand, otherwise 
proper brake action can not be had. Moreover, tyre wear would be hastened 
and skidding caused were this not done; these two conditions, so far as caused 
by brakes, can be prevented only by equalization of the latter. 

Brakes and Fuel Economy —It is obvious that the car that can be 
pushed by hand on a level floor only with difficulty or the one that does not 
coast down hill readily requires more power to propel it along a road than a 
free-moving one. Brakes that drag or bind because they are adjusted too 
closely or that do not release properly because of insufficient lubrication use 
up a proportionate amount of power that would otherwise be devoted to 
propelling the car. The degree of correctness of their adjustment and the 
amount of proper and regular care they receive thus have a direct effect on fuel 
consumption and hence on fuel economy. 

Care must therefore be observed when adjusting the brakes that the brake 
bands do not in any degree touch the brake drums when the brakes are in the 
released position, and that the various pins and shafts and bearings have 


86 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



1 

Foot brake adjusting- 

7 

Foot brake equalizer 


lever, left 

8 

Foot brake pull-rod 

2 

Foot brake adjusting- 

9 

Foot brake turnbuckle 


lever, right 

10 

Brake hand lever 

3 

Adjusting-lever clamp- 

11 

Brake pedal 


screw 

12 

Hand brake rods 

4 

Foot brake operating 
lever 

13 

Hand brake adjusting- 
clevises 

5 

Foot brake operating 
shaft 

14 

Foot brake adjusting- 
clevis 

6 

Hand brake operating 

15 

Brake cross shafts 


shaft 

16 

Hand brake pull-rod 


17 Hand brake turnbuckle 














































































































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


87 


sufficient lubrication to ensure all the parts functioning properly, particularly 
with respect to releasing. 

Adjusting the Brakes —Slight looseness of the brakes can be compen¬ 
sated by means of the two turnbuckles, (9 and 17, fig. 31), under the front 
floor boards; of these, one adjusts the foot brake and the other the hand. 

To tighten either the foot or the hand brake, loosen the lock-nuts on the 
turnbuckle affected, and shorten it by turning it so as to bring the ends of the 
brake rods closer together. Of each pair of lock-nuts, one has a right hand 
thread and the other a left. 

After several adjustments made in this manner, the turnbuckles will have 
become so short that further adjustment will be impossible. In this event, 
lengthen the turnbuckles to their limits by turning them in the opposite di¬ 
rection, and then proceed as indicated below. 

Foot Brake Adjustment —Additional adjustment of the foot brake is 
accomplished as follows: 

1. Jack up both rear wheels clear of the ground. 

2. At the anchor-pin adjusting-screw (5, fig. 32), insert a heavy card, 
about 1-32" (0.8 mm.) in thickness, between the brake lining and the brake 
drum. Turn the adjusting-screw inward—to the right, when facing it, at the 
same time moving the card from side to side, until the latter can no longer be 
freely moved, when the adjusting-screw should be given a half-turn to the left. 

3. Loosen the lock-nut on the adjusting-clevis (14, fig.’31) of the foot 
brake rod and disconnect the latter at its front end from the cross shaft lever. 
Shorten the brake rod by screwing the adjusting-clevis inward a few turns, 
connect the rod to the cross shaft lever, and securely tighten the lock-nut. 

4. Start the engine and speed up the rear wheels, on high gear, to 20 to 
25 miles (30 to 40 km.) an hour. Apply the foot brake and note whether both 
wheels come quickly and simultaneously to rest. If one wheel stops more 
slowly than the other, loosen the clamp-screw (3, fig. 31) and push the ad¬ 
justing-lever (1 and 2 fig. 31) on the slow-stopping wheel’s side slightly ahead, 
being careful not to disturb the position of the other adjusting-lever, and se¬ 
curely tighten the clamp-screw. I f both wheels come slowly to a stop, shorten 
the foot brake rod (8, fig. 31) by means of its turnbuckle (9, fig. 31). 

5. Securely tighten the turnbuckle lock-nuts. 

Further adjustment can then be effected by means of the turnbuckle. 

Be careful not to shorten the brake rod (8, fig. 31) more than is neces¬ 
sary, as this would cause the brake lining to rub against the brake drums and 
would result in rapid wear. It should be possible quite readily to move a 
heavy card, say, (0.8 mm.) in thickness, completely around the brake 
drum, between it and the brake lining, when the brake is correctly adjusted; 
a smaller clearance will cause the brake to drag or bind—the wheel will not 
turn as freely as it should and the brake will heat and wear rapidly. 


88 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Adjustment of the Hand Brake —The same caution with respect to 
equalization must be observed when adjusting the hand brake; proceed as 
follows: 

1. Jack up both rear wheels; loosen the turnbuckle (17, fig. 31) on the 
brake rod connected to the hand brake lever. 

2. Set the hand brakes by pulling half-way to two-thirds back on the 
hand brake lever. 

3. Try to turn each rear-wheel by hand. If either wheel can be moved, 
shorten the brake rod (12, fig. 31) on the loose side by means of its adjusting- 
clevis (13, fig. 31). 

4. Release the hand brake lever and speed up the rear wheels to 20 to 25 
miles (30 to 40 km.) an hour by means of the engine and high gear. Apply the 
hand brake and note whether both wheels come quickly and simultaneously 



1 Hand brake toggle lever 6 Foot brake band saddle 

2 Foot brake toggle lever 7 Foot brake anchor-pin 

3 Hand brake toggle links 8 Foot brake band 

4 Hand brake toggle lever links 9 Hand brake band 

5 Foot brake ancnor-pin adjusting-screw 











MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


89 


to rest. If one wheel stops more slowly than the other, shorten its brake rod; 
if both wheels come slowly to a stop, shorten both brake rods. At the con¬ 
clusion of the adjustment, tighten the lock-nuts; remember that some have 
right hand and others left hand threads. 

When the hand brake is fully set, the correct position for the hand 
brake lever is half-way to two-thirds toward the rear. Compensate slight 
looseness by shortening the turnbuckle on the hand brake rod under the front 
floor boards. Be careful not to tighten the hand brake too much; this would 
cause the brake bands to rub against the brake drums and would result in 
heating and rapid wear. With the hand brake lever released, it should be 
possible for the rear wheels to turn quite freely; if a grating sound is heard 
when the rear wheels are turned, the brakes are too tightly adjusted and are 
dragging; they should be readjusted until the dragging is eliminated. 

Caution —In adjusting either the foot or the hand brakes, there is one 
point that must be very carefully watched: the positions of the brake cross 
shaft levers (15, fig. 31). When the brakes are fully released, these levers 
should point downward and toward the rear; if they point forward or are 
vertical, the brakes can not be as completely applied as is otherwise possible, 
for the distance the levers can then be moved in applying the brakes will be 
proportionately shortened and the full braking effort therefore can not be 
obtained. The brake cross shaft levers can be maintained in their proper 
positions only through correct adjustment of the foot brake bands and the 
adjusting clevises. 

Lubrication —Follow the directions in ROUTINE CARE in every par¬ 
ticular. All brake pins require lubrication by hand—engine oil and an oil can. 
The brake cross shafts are lubricated by hand, with an oil can; the operating 
shafts—on the rear axle—are likewise lubricated. Use plenty of oil on the 
brake levers and pins on the brake bands; wash these parts frequently with 
gasoline or kerosene and a stiff bristle brush and then lubricate them 
thoroughly; make a practice of applying oil to them every time they are 
adjusted. 

Relining the Brakes —Remove the rear wheels and then the brake 
bands that are to be relined. Cut the rivets holding the linings to the bands 
and drive them out of their holes, and pull the old linings off. 

In riveting the new linings in place, take care that the rivet heads are 
countersunk below the surface of the linings, to prevent their coming in 
contact with the brake drums, and that the linings are not wrinkled or 
puckered. 

Adjust the brakes after fitting new linings, to prevent their dragging 
because of the increased thickness of the new linings. Frequent adjustment 
will be necessary until the brakes will have worked in. 

Brakes not Holding —There are generally two reasons for brakes not 
holding properly: One, incorrect adjustment or wear, in which case proceed 


90 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


as directed above; two, accumulations of grease or oil on the brake bands or 
drums, causing the brakes to slip. In this latter case the remedy is a thorough 
washing with gasoline or kerosene, a stiff bristle brush, and a syringe. In ex¬ 
treme cases it may be necessary to remove the wheels before washing. 

So far as safety of operation is concerned, the brakes are one of 
the two most important parts of the car. They should, therefore, 
receive every consideration and attention. 

Locking one or both rear wheels in attempting to make a rapid 
stop can not produce the desired result; it will only cause rapid wear 
of the rear tyres or skidding. 

Equal adjustment of each set of brakes must be made before 
efficient brake action can be had. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


91 


CHAPTER VII 

THE FRONT AXLE 

.Lubrication —In the course of a day’s run, the various connections and 
bearings of the steering rods and levers are subjected to considerable move¬ 
ment. In addition to this, they are so exposed to road dirt that it is impossible 
to keep foreign matter out of their bearings and rapid wear must take place 
unless prevented by frequent lubrication. 

Tightness of Parts —The nuts on the steering knuckle pivots, the 
steering knuckle tie-rod pins, as well as those holding the steering knuckle 
arms in the steering knuckles, should be examined from time to time to see 
that they are tight and that the split pins in each of these nuts are holding 
the latter from turning. 

Front Wheel Alignment —It sometimes happens that the front wheels 
are not correctly aligned with one another, being too close together at the 
front or rear; this is known as toeing-in or -out. 

In addition to making for stiff and uncertain steering, misaligned front 
wheels cause extremely rapid wear of the front tyres. This is due to one wheel 
running straight—parallel with the direction of the car’s root ion—whilst the 
other runs at an angle to it, scraping as well as rolling along the road surface. 
It can be readily seen that in this case the road surface grinds quantities of 
rubber from the tread of the tyre on the wheel affected; unless stopped, total 
destruction of this tyre will soon follow. 

This condition is readily detected, but, unfortunately, the average driver 
does not notice it until it has progressed to such an extent that the front 
tyres are badly worn, when he makes an investigation. Periodical inspection 
is necessary if preventive measures are to be applied in time to save the tyres. 

To align front wheels, proceed as follows: 

1. Jack up the front axle to raise both wheels clear of the ground. 

2. See that the front wheel bearings are properly adjusted; if loose, see 
page 93 for directions. 

3. Adjust the demountable rim bolts to ensure the tyres running true 
with the wheels. 

4. Remove the jacks and press the fronts of the wheels apart to take 
up play or looseness in the steering connections 

5. With a rod of metal or wood or a piece of string, at the height of the 
hubs, measure the distance between the inner sides of the front wheel felloes; 
distance A, figure 33, should be y 5 ^-" (8. mm.),.less than B. 

To adjust the distance A (item 5, above), remove the steering knuckle tie- 
rod pin, loosen the adjusting-end clamp-bolt (1, fig. 33), and screw the yoke 
outward or inward respectively to decrease or to increase A. Securely 


92 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


tighten the clamp-bolt and replace the tie-rod pin, not forgetting the 
split pins. 



Fig. 33. Front Wheel Alignment Diagram 

1 Adjusting-end clamp-bolt 4 Steering gear 

2 Steering gear connecting-rod 5 Tie-rod adjusting-end 

3 Steering knuckle tie-rod 6 Connecting-rod ball-joints 

Stiff Steering —If steering is stiff, proceed as follows: 

1. Check the wheel alignment. 

2. Jack up the front axle to raise both wheels clear of the ground. 

3. Disconnect the axle end of the steering gear connecting rod (2, fig. 33). 

4. Adjust the steering gear end of the connecting rod to take up all 

looseness. It should move quite freely and smoothly when swung up and down; 
see page 93 for adjustment. 

5. Swing the wheels from side to side. They should swing very freely; if 
not, disassemble the various joints, including the steering knuckle pivots, and 
clean and lubricate them. When reassembling these parts, tighten the pivots 
and pins only enough to take up looseness; extreme tightening will cause 
binding. 

6. Inspect the balls on the steering gear lever (on steering gear) and on 
the tie-rod for wear; if badly worn—flat, for example, replace. 

7. Inspect the steering gear: 

(a) It should turn freely; 

(b) The bushing in the upper end of the steering column tube should 
not bind; 












































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


93 


(c) The steering wheel hub should not bind on the steering column 
tube; 

(d) The steering column tube should be in line with the recess it fits 
into in the instrument board; 

(e) There should be about 1'* (25 mm.) of play at the steering wheel 
rim (see page 95 for steering gear adjustment); 

(f) All moving parts should be thoroughly lubricated; force trans¬ 
mission oil through the steering gear and the column tube with 
air pressure if necessary. 

Do not forget to replace the split pins in the steering knuckle 
pivots, steering knuckle tie-rod pins, and steering gear connecting 
rod; it is advisable to use new one. 

Steering Gear Connecting Rod —The steering gear connecting rod is 
disassembled, or looseness in it is adjusted, as follows: 

Remove the split pin from the steering gear end of the rod and, with a 
large screw driver, unscrew the large slotted plug, and then take out the spring 
and ball-cup. Wash the parts thoroughly with gasoline or kerosene, pack 
them with soft cup grease, and replace them. Screw the slotted plug in far 
enough to take up all looseness, but not enough to cause stiff movement; the 
joint should be free enough to permit of its being easily moved. Align the slot 
in the plug with the split pin holes and insert the split pin, spreading the latter’s 
ends to prevent it from working out; it is always best to use new split pins. 
Treat the joint in the other end of the rod in the same manner. 

In replacing the springs and the ball-cups in the steering gear connecting 
rod, it is of the highest importance that they be restored to their original 
positions. The spring in the joint (6, fig. 33) at the axle end — right hand end 
—of the steering gear connecting rod is next to the adjusting-plug—between 
the latter and the steering knuckle arm ball. At the steering gear end, the 
steering gear arm ball (7, fig. 35) is between the spring and the adjusting- 
plug. In other words, the springs are placed at the right hand sides of the joints. 

In cars fitted with right hand steering, the opposite holds good—the 
springs are installed at the left hand sides of the joints. 

Front Wheel Bearings —The front wheel bearings require adjustment 
from time to time, as well as periodical inspection, cleaning, and repacking 
with fresh grease. Loose wheel bearings are readily detected by grasping the 
upper side of the tyre and pushing back and forth against the wheel, noticing 
if there is any looseness at the hub, that is, between the inner side of the hub 
and the steering knuckle. To prevent wear in the steering knuckle pivot 
bearings being confused with looseness of the wheel bearings, force a chisel or 
similar tool between the axle yoke (the large openings at the ends of the front 
axle) and the steering knuckle, when any looseness that may be noticed will 
be in the wheel bearing itself. 

Adjustment —If adjustment of a front wheel bearing appears necessary, 
remove the hub cap, jack up the wheel, extract the split pin from the bearing 


94 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


nut, and tighten the latter sufficiently to eliminate all looseness. Take great 
care not to make the adjustment too tight, or the bearing will be damaged. 

After making the adjustment, and before inserting the split pin in the 
bearing nut, rotate the wheel and let it come to rest. If the adjustment has 
been correctly made, the wheel will stop with the tyre valve at the bottom; 
the wheel should oscillate several times before finally coming to rest. 

Another method is to turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the top 
and tighten the wheel bearing nut sufficiently to prevent the wheel from turn¬ 
ing. Then, very slightly loosen the nut until the wheel again starts to turn 
and insert the split pin and bend its ends. 

Pack the bearings and hub cap with clean, soft cup grease, and securely 
replace the cap. 



Fig. 34. Steering Knuckle and Front Wheel Bearings 


1 

2 

3 

4 


Steering knuckle pivot 
upper bearing 
Steering knuckle pivot 
Dust washer 

Front wheel inner bearing 

9 


5 Front wheel outer 

bearing 

6 Front wheel bearing 

locking-washer 

7 Lubricator 

8 Steering knuckle 
Front wheel bearing nut 


Removing the Front Wheels —The front wheels are removed by 
unscrewing the bearing nut, taking out the washer between it and the outer 
bearing, and then pulling the wheel straight out. Lift out the bearings and 
carefully wash them (always wash the bearings first), the hub cap, and 
the interior of the wheel hub with clean gasoline or kerosene to remove all 
dirt and old grease. After replacing the wheel, adjust the bearings as directed 
above, pack them, the hub cap, and the interior of the hub with clean, soft 
cup grease, and securely replace the hub cap. 






























MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


95 


CHAPTER VIII 

THE STEERING GEAR 

1. Jack up one or both front wheels. 

2. Loosen the steering worm adjusting-plug lock-bolt (5, fig. 35) and 
tighten the adjusting-plug (6, fig. 35), screwing it inward—toward the steer¬ 
ing gear housing. 

3. Test the adjustment by turning the steering wheel. Continue tight¬ 
ening the adjusting-plug until the steering gear commences to bind—moves 
stiffly, when the adjusting-plug should be loosened one or two half-turns 
and the lock-bolt securely tightened. 

Exercise the utmost care against overtightening the adjusting-plug, as 
this would cause stiff steering and rapid wear of the parts involved. If the 
adjustment is correctly made, all play can be removed from the steering gear 
without causing stiff action. 

If all the play can not be removed by means of the adjusting-plug, remove 
the housing cover (1, fig. 35) and take out one or two shims (8, fig, 35), and 
replace the cover. 

If failure still results, proceed as follows: Loosen the adjusting-plug and 
replace the shims. Remove the steering gear arm by taking off the nut holding 
it to the worm gear shaft and tapping it outward. As the worm gear is a full 
gear, turning the steering gear until the worm gear shaft has rotated one- 
quarter of a turn brings into mesh with the steering gear worm an unused 
quarter of the worm gear, thus eliminating the play caused by the worn part 
of the latter. This done, replace the steering gear arm, and proceed with the 
adjusting as already outlined above. 

Care of the Steering Gear —With the exception of periodical cleaning 
and lubrication, and occasional tightening of the various bolts and nuts, the 
steering gear requires but little attention. Lubrication, of course, is essential; 
for, in addition to minimizing wear, lubrication makes for easy steering. Follow 
the instructions in part two, ROUTINE CARE, not neglecting such parts as 
the spark and throttle hand lever bearings (on-the steering column tube), the 
spark and throttle levers (near the bottom of the steering gear), etc. Use 
transmission oil in the steering gear case; engine oil on the other parts. 

Care of the steering gear and of the various steering rods and levers 
is important—vitally so. Should a bolt or a pin drop out through 
neglect, it may happen that the car will then be uncontrollable and 
its occupants endangered. The one certain preventive—periodical 
examination for looseness or wear—is always within your reach. 


96 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 




Fig. 35. 

Steering Gear 

1 

Steering gear case cover 

7 

Steering gear arm ball 

2 

Steering gear case 

8 

Adjusting-shims 

3 

Steering wheel shaft . 

9 

Steering worm gear 

4 

Steering worm 

10 

Worm gear thrust 

5 

Adjusting-plug lock- 


washer 


bolt 

11 

Steering worm gear 

6 

Steering worm adjust¬ 


shaft 


ing-plug 

12 

Steering gear arm 


13 Lubricator 






















































































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


97 


CHAPTER IX 

THE SPRINGS 

Why the Springs Require Attention —The springs of a car are subject 
to very severe operating conditions, due to their extremely exposed position. 
Being under the car and close to the road surface, they rapidly become covered 
with mud and grit which must be removed from time to time if they are to 
function unimpaired. Water, too, enters between the leaves, causing them to 
rust, thus aggravating this condition. 

Since the leaves of the springs, in flexing, that is, in bending and straighten¬ 
ing out, slide lengthwise on one another, the entrance of such foreign matter 
as mud and water causes extreme friction between the leaves. When this 
condition becomes acute, the leaves do not slide as freely as they should and 
the spring action therefore becomes stiff and hard. It thus becomes necessary 
from time to time to clean and lubricate the leaves, for if the stiff action is 
not eliminated it is quite likely the spring affected will break. 



1 Rear spring bolt lock- 3 Lubricator 

ing-ping 4 Rebound clips 

2 Rear spring bolt 5 Spring clip 

Cleaning and Lubricating the Springs— When cleaning and lubrica¬ 
tion becomes necessary, remove the spring rebound clips and jack up the 
frame of the car, thus separating the spring leaves; in this condition, they are 
readily washed by means of a stiff brush and kerosene. This operation 
finished, apply a liberal quantity of soft cup grease and work it between the 
leaves by means of a knife blade or other similar instrument. 

Tighten the Clips and Bolts—Remove the jacks, replace the rebound 
clips, and wipe off the surplus grease. Try all the other bolts and clips with 












98 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


a wrench to see that they are thoroughly tight. This last operation is highly 
important and should be carefully attended to, for loose spring bolts and clips 
are one of the most prolific causes of spring breakage. 

Likewise with other parts of the car* the springs and their 
components require certain attention in the matter of cleanliness, 
lubrication, and tightness. A little effort in this respect, in accord¬ 
ance with the recommendations in this chapter and in part two, 
ROUTINE CARE, will amply compensate the car owner in the length¬ 
ened spring life and improved riding qualities that will result. 


CHAPTER X 

THE FRAME 

The type of frame used is the pressed-steel, channel-section (“U'’-shaped 
pieces of steel), rigidity and strength being ensured by means of numerous 
cross-members of the same material. This is the type of frame in almost 
exclusive use today. 

One point with respect to its construction is particularly worthy of note: 
The frame tapers gradually from back to front, the rear end of the frame being 
wide, .thus providing ample support for the coach work (an important point 
in light car construction), whilst the front part is narrow to permit short 
turning—always a desirable quality. 

Another excellent constructional feature is that the side members of the 
frame are straight—without the usual bends; they are therefore much stronger 
than other types in which the side members are inwardly bent; a more solid 
foundation for the entire length of the coach work is provided, also, in this 
form of construction. 

Little need be said regarding the care of a frame of this type, for—bar¬ 
ring accident—very little can happen to it. However, if the car is subjected 
to very severe service, as over very rough roads, particularly at high speeds, 
some of the rivets may loosen. This condition is readily detected by the 
formation of rust on the metal adjacent to the loose rivet heads. It is advisable 
to have the rivets tightened if possible, but it is much better to replace them 
with new ones, as it is very difficult to make a satisfactory job in tightening 
loosened rivets. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


99 


CHAPTER XI 

THE COOLING SYSTEM 

The type of cooling system employed is absolutely positive in action 
under all operating conditions. The other form of water-cooling system 
sometimes used, known as the thermo-siphon type, whilst simpler than pump 
circulation, is, nevertheless, less efficient. Its advantage—in fact, its only 
advantage—in the eyes of some is its cheapness. 

Use only Clean Water —Use only clean water in the cooling system. 
The particles of solid matter contained in muddy or dirty water will lodge 
in the very small openings between the radiator tubes, choking them and 
reducing the radiator efficiency. Moreover, such solid matter accumulates 
in the water jacket and unless removed from time to time will impede or 
altogether stop the flow of water through the affected parts. 

Flush the Cooling System —This condition necessitates frequent drain¬ 
ing and flushing of the entire cooling system. Open the drain cock (3, fig. 37), 
drain, close the cock, and fill the system with clean water. If running water is 
available, open the drain cock, insert the nozzle of a hose into the radiator 
filler spout, and run the engine, adjusting the flow of fresh water to prevent 
its overflowing onto the engine. Continue this for about five minutes, when 
the drain cock should be closed and the hose removed. 

Avoid Hard Water —Water frequently contains mineral matter. If 
such water is used, extra precautions must be taken, for its continued use 
causes some of the mineral matter to form encrustations or scale on the 
cylinder and water jacket walls, and in the radiator, also. Such deposits in 
a large measure prevent the radiation of heat and therefore reduce the efficiency 
of the cooling system. 

Removal of Scale —It frequently happens that the engine overheats for 
no discoverable cause. Usually the fault lies in the formation of scale, which 
can be readily removed as follows: 

Make a saturated solution of lye (caustic soda) or ordinary washing 
soda and water.* Drain the cooling system, close the drain cock, and fill with 
the prepared solution. Run the engine with the spark retarded until the cooling 
water is heated to the boiling point. Let this solution remain in the cooling 
system for several hours, after which open the drain cock, drain, and flush 
with fresh, clean water, repeating the flushing several times to remove all 
traces of the lye or washing soda. If running water and a hose are available, 
flush the system by inserting the hose into the radiator water spout (with the 
drain cock open) and running the engine. In extreme cases it may be necessary 
to repeat this operation several times. Contact of this mixture with 
enameled or painted surfaces will injure the finish. 

♦Dissolve in 7.5 quarts (6.25 imp. qts.; 7,125 I.) of water, the capacity of the cooling system, 
as much lye or washing soda as can be dissolved therein; strain the mixture through cloth before 
using it. 


100 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



1 Fan 6 Radiator 

2 Fan belt 7 Engine water outlet 

3 Drain cock hose 

4 Radiator water outlet 8 Water pump gland 

hose 9 Lubricator 

5 Radiator filler cap 10 Water pump 

Non-Freezing Solution— A suitable and safe non-freezing compound 
should meet the following conditions: 

1. It should contain no powerful chemicals that will have a harmful 
effect on any part of the cooling system, either on iron, brass, lead, 
or rubber; 

2. It should be easily dissolved in, or combined with, water; 

3. It should be relatively inexpensive; 

4. Its boiling point should be equal to or above that of water to prevent 
waste through evaporation; 

5 . It should not deposit foreign matter in the cooling system. 

Alcohol, denatured or otherwise, makes about the best non-freezing solu- 

























































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 101 


tion, as it sets up no destructive action on either metal or rubber, nor does it 
cause any deposit to form. It has, however, the disadvantage of evaporating 
more rapidly than water, so that when replenishing the water supply alcohol 
should also be added. A combination of alcohol and glycerine is good (50% 
of each); glycerine alone has a rather destructive action on rubber, but the 
addition of alcohol seems to prevent this action, whilst the glycerine prevents 
the alcohol from evaporating too rapidly. Calcium chloride, also, is good, 
but it causes an undesirable electrolytic action where two metals of a different 
kind are joined, such as brass and solder in the radiator; use only absolutely 
pure calcium chloride. 

In the following table will be found the proportions of the various mixtures 
and their freezing points: 


FREEZING POINTS OF ALCOHOL AND WATER SOLUTIONS 


Per cent, by Volume 

Specific Gravity 

Freezing 

of Alcohol 

of Solution 

Point 

10 

0.988 

24° F. (-4.5° C.) 

20 

0.975 

14° F. (-10° C.) 

30 

0.964 

-1° F. (-19.5° C.) 

40 

0.954 

-20° F. (-29° C.) 

50 

0.933 

-32° F. (-35.5° C.) 

60 

0.913 

-45° F. (-42° C.) 

70 

0.897 

FREEZING POINTS OF 

-67° F. (-55° C.) 

ALCOHOL, GLYCERINE, AND WATER SOLUTIONS 

Alcohol and Glycerine 

* 

Freezing 

Per Cent. 

Water Per Cent. 

Point 

15 

85 

20° F. (-6.5° C.) 

25- 

75 

8° F. (-13° C.) 

30 

70 

-5° F. (-20.5° C.) 

35 

65 

-18° F. (-28° C.) 

40 

60 

-24° F. (-31° C.) 

45 

55 

-30° F. (-34.5° C.) 

50 

50 

-33° F. (-36° C.) 

FREEZING POINTS OF CALCIUM CHLORIDE 

SOLUTIONS 

Per cent, by Volume 

Specific Gravity 

Freezing 

of Calcium Chloride 

of Solution 

Point 

10 

1.085 

22° F. (-5.5° C.) 

15 

1.119 

13° F. (-10.5° C.) 

20 

1.131 

0° F. (-18° C.) 

22 

1.200 

-9° F. (-23° C.) 

24 

1.219 . 

-18° F. (-28° C.) 

26 

1.242 

-28° F. (-33° C.) 

28 

1.268 

-42° F. (-41° C) 


* 50% of each 


102 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


It will be noted that the specific gravity in two of the above tables can 
be used for checking the strength of the solution. A battery hydrometer 
can be used to take specific gravity readings of calcium choloride solutions, 
but in testing an alcohol and water solution it will be necessary to procure 
a hydrometer for measuring the specific gravity of liquids lighter than 
water. 

If wood alcohol be used instead of denatured or grain alcohol, slightly 
lower temperatures can be reached with the same proportions of alcohol and 
water. 

With the exception of alcohol, denatured or otherwise, it is best to clean 
the cooling system after using non-freezing solutions, as some of the materials 
used to prevent freezing frequently form a deposit or coating on the water- 
jacket and radiator surfaces. They therefore prevent in a greater or less degree 
the radiation of heat. 

Glycerine sometimes leaves a varnish-like coating. Some of the so-called 
radiator cements form a coating, also, detrimental to proper cooling. These 
coatings should be removed from time to time; if the radiator leaks, it should 
be soldered at the first opportunity. The continued use of alkaline water 
causes heavy encrustations or scale to be deposited throughout the cooling 
system. 

If the coating or deposit is loose (it may be visible through the radiator 
filler spout), it can be removed merely by flushing with a hose and running 
water; see Flush the Cooling System. 

If flushing with water is not successful, try the washing soda or lye solu¬ 
tion given in Removal of Scale, using it in the manner described therein. 

Should failure still result, try a dilute solution of hydrochloric (muriatic) 
acid and water. In using this solution, remember that it is quite strong and 
may corrode the metals of the cooling system. It should remain in the system 
only long enough to remove the scale or coating and should then be completely 
flushed out with a hose and running water; after running the car a few hours, it 
is advisable to flush the cooling system again. 

As a last resort in removing scale formed by the use of alkaline water, try 
a steam-boiler scale-remover. 

Pieces of foreign matter, such as fragments from the hose connections, 
can sometimes be dislodged from the radiator tubes by removing the radiator 
from the car, turning it upside down, and flushing with a hose and running 
water through the radiator water outlet (now at the top). 

Most of the above solutions have a corrosive affect on painted and 
varnished surfaces, as well as on the hose connections. 

Fan Belt—If the belt is greasy, wash it with a clean cloth or a stiff bristle 
brush and gasoline; if it is worn or stretched to such an extent that it does not 
drive the fan, replace it—particularly if during hot weather. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


103 


Cover the Radiator—In cold weather, the engine may operate at too 
low a temperature for efficient running. This condition can be corrected by 
the use of a radiator cover of oil- or rubberized cloth to shut off as much of 
the radiator to the entrance of air as circumstances may require. The cover 
should be attached to the lower part of the radiator and as much more likewise 
covered as may be necessary. 

A Frozen Engine—Special care must be exercised lest the cooling system 
freeze, for in this case it is very likely the radiator or the cylinders would be 
injured or the water pump damaged. In any event, expensive rapairs would 
be necessary. 

If the cooling system should freeze, have the car removed (do not run the 
engine lest the water pump be damaged) to a warm place and let it thaw out; 
pouring hot water on the radiator will hasten this action. After the cooling 
system has thawed, examine it carefully for leaks before again operating the 
engine. 

An Overheated Engine—If the engine is very hot as a result of insuffi¬ 
cient water in the cooling system, do not pour cold water into the radiator if 
the latter is wholly or partly empty. It is absolutely necessary to permit 
the engine to cool before adding cold water, in order to avoid cracking 
the cylinders or water jacket. 

Hose Connections—Pieces of rubber hose connect the cylinders and the 
water pump with the radiator. Care should be taken lest these pieces of hose 
become bent or kinked, thus obstructing the flow of water; they should also be 
examined from time to time because rubber hose deteriorates and small 
particles loosen from the insides and may clog the cooling system. It is best, if 
a hose is noticeably rotted, to replace it at once. 

When slipping the hose connections into place, do not apply oil or grease 
to them to facilitate the operation, as this will cause the rubber to rot; use soap 
and water. Never use shellac on these connections, as it will be very difficult 
to remove them. 

Water Pump Gland—To prevent leakage of water, the water pump 
shaft is packed with a gland (8. fig. 37) containing a specially prepared wick 
packing which prevents leakage. 

Periodically examine this gland for leakage; tighten it if any is noted. Do 
not overtighten the gland, as this will cause rapid wear of the packing and 
shaft; merely pull it up snug. A deeply cut shaft will cause leakage and 
should be replaced, as it will not hold the packing. 

It is, of course, most desirable that standard Chevrolet packing be used, 
but should it be unavailable, ordinary candle wicking, well soaked in grease 
and graphite, will serve; it may be possible, also, to secure a specially prepar¬ 
ed wick pump packing. 

Unscrew the gland to extract the old packing. Wind the fresh packing 


104 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


around the shaft in the direction the latter rotates and force it into the 
gland, which should then be tightened. 

It is good practice occasionally to remove the water pump gland—say, 
every 1,000 miles (2,000 km), apply a small quantity of soft cup grease, arid 
replace it. 

Dirty Radiator—The radiator tubes, particularly those at the bottom, 
often become clogged with mud and grease. This, of course, prevents the 
passage of air through them and hence decreases the cooling area of the 
radiator; they should be cleaned out from time to time. Use a small stick, 
gently pushing it through each tube, and wash with water. It may be neces¬ 
sary to use a stiff bristle brush and gasoline or kerosene. 

Causes of Overheating—An overheated engine may be caused by one 
or more of the following: 

Pump impeller loose on water pump shaft; slipping fan belt; insufficient 
water, caused by leaks or an unfilled radiator; rich mixture; improperly ad¬ 
justed carburetor or carburetor choke; late spark; late valve timing; too large 
valve lifter clearance; carbon accumulations; insufficient or diluted oil; high 
compression; dragging brakes; tight bearings between engine and rear wheels; 
soft tyres; slipping clutch; unskilled driving; continued use of low or second 
speed, etc. 

Frequent draining and flushing of the cooling system will in¬ 
crease its efficiency and therefore add to the life of the engine. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


105 


CHAPTER XII 

LUBRICATION 

Operation of the Lubrication System—Oil is poured into the engine 
through the oil filler tube (7, fig. 38) to a fixed level or height in the oil pan, 
as indicated by the oil level gauge. It is then drawn from the oil pan through 
the oil suction pipe to the oil pump; before entering the oil suction pipe, 
the oil passes through a screen in the oil pan, where any foreign matter it may 
contain is removed. 

The oil is then forced by the oil pump through the oil distributor pipe to 
the crankcase, where it is distributed to the four connecting rod oil troughs 
located directly under the connecting rods; a part of this oil is piped directly 
to the crankshaft center bearing, thus ensuring adequate lubrication of this 
important part. 



Fig. 38. Lubrication System 


1 Oil pressure gauge 

2 Oil pressure gauge pipe 

3 Oil pump gears 

4 Oil suction pipe 

5 Oil distributor pipe 

6 Oil pan drain plug 


7 Oil filler tube 

8 Center main bearing oil 

pipe 

9 Oil level gauge 

10 Connecting rod oil 
trough 

11 Oil pan 


The oil is maintained at a constant height in each of the troughs and the 
connecting rods dip more or less forcibly, depending on the speed at which 





























106 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


they are moving, into this oil, splashing it throughout the crankcase; 
the quantity of oil thus circulated is therefore proportionate to the engine 
speed. 

In being splashed about in this manner, some of the oil is thrown onto the 
cylinder walls, where it lubricates these parts and the pistons, and also onto the 
piston pins and their bearings. In the same fashion, oil is thrown onto the 
camshaft, ensuring adequate lubrication of the camshaft bearings, the cams, 
valve lifters, and valve lifter guides. The crankshaft front and rear 
bearings are also lubricated in this manner, and a small quantity of oil finds 
its way through a hole drilled in the crankshaft rear journal to the clutch spring 
tension rod bearing in the fly-wheel. 

With the exception of the cylinders and pistons, all the parts receive an 
oversupply of oil; a part of this oversupply to the crankshaft front bearing 
passes into the timing gear case, thus lubricating the timing gears and the 
generator driving gear. A very small part of the oil works its way past the 
pistons into the combustion chambers, where it is consumed with the fuel. 
The excess oil drains into the oil pan and thence through the oil screen and 
the oil suction pipe back to the oil pump, whence it is again circulated through¬ 
out the system. 

It can be readily seen that this form of construction, which is known as 
the splash type with circulating pump (often referred to as the constant level 
splash system), is simple and reliable to a degree and highly economical with 
respect to oil consumption; the fact that it is more widely used than any other 
system may be taken as sound evidence of its worth. It is a system that 
requires practically no attention other than replenishment of the oil consumed 
and changing of the oil supply at certain intervals. 

Beyond ordinary wear and tear and excepting accidents, the engine 
lubrication system can be entirely relied upon. There are, however, certain 
other factors of equal importance to that of an efficient lubrication system 
that must have consideration. 

Why it is Necessary to Change the Oil—Any metal surface moving 
in contact with another metal surface, regardless of how well it may be lubri¬ 
cated, wears out. Minute fragments of metal are torn or broken from it and 
accumulate in the oil, which thus soon becomes filled with abrasive particles. 
In the case of a motor car engine, road dust and other particles of foreign mat¬ 
ter in the air find their way into the cylinders and crankcase, and eventually 
into the oil. Carbon, also, which forms on the undersides of the pistons, 
collects in the oil. 

Crankcase Dilution—A poorly carbureted mixture, whether because of 
injudicious use of the carburetor choke or incorrect adjustment of the car¬ 
buretor, contains a greater or less quantity of raw fuel which is not wholly 
consumed. This unburned fuel, on coming into contact with the oil film on 
the cylinder walls, is carried into the oil pan, where it dilutes and hence con¬ 
taminates the oil. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


107 


This condition is especially marked during a series of short runs when the 
engine is frequently started and stopped—particularly in cold weather. In 
addition to this, unburned fuel that remains in the cylinders after the engine 
has been stopped flows into the crankcase, a condition likewise particularly 
true in cold weather and one that is also aggravated by frequent starting and 
stopping of the engine. The use of low-grade, heavy fuels accentuates this 
condition, because the heavier parts of such fuels are not entirely vaporized in 
the carburetion process preparatory to their admission into the cylinders, but 
remain in a liquid state and drain into the crankcase. 

Lubricating oil thus diluted and contaminated has little or no lubricating 
value and soon becomes a source of very rapid wear to the various bearing- 
surfaces of the engine. The preventive, of course, among other things, is 
careful manipulation of the carburetor choke and correct adjustment of the 
carburetor, but frequent changing of the oil is essential, also, for in addition 
to providing fresh, undiluted oil at frequent intervals, this practice removes 
foreign matter that accumulates in the crankcase: dust, particles of carbon 
and metal, water, etc. 

How to Avoid Crankcase Dilution—Strict attention to the items 
enumerated below will prevent crankcase dilution: 

1. Avoid excessive use of the carburetor choke. After starting the engine, 
wait until it is well heated before starting the car. 

2. During cold weather, use a radiator cover to permit the engine to heat 
more rapidly and also to maintain it at a higher operating temperature. 
Crankcase dilution is much more prevalent with a cold engine than 
with a hot one; heat makes for better carburetion and improves com¬ 
bustion of the fuel. 

3. Do not idle the engine—run it throttled down—-or*, drive excessively 
slowly for long periods of time. This practice causes an objectionable 
condition to be set up within the engine and tends to increase dilution. 

4. Keep the engine in good mechanical condition. Scored or worn 
cylinders, pistons, or piston rings, defective ignition apparatus, valves 
in need of grinding—all these promote dilution. (See below for further 
remarks on this subject.) 

5. - Drain the oil pan regularly; see ROUTINE CARE, and below. 

6. Do not flush the oil pan and lubrication system with kerosene, as it is 
impossible to drain all the pockets without removing the oil pan; the 
kerosene that is caught in these pockets remains and dilutes the 
fresh oil. Use a flushing oil or clean engine oil. 

Drain the oil pan whilst the engine is hot and the oil thoroughly 
agitated. Slightly increase the speed of the engine and let it run in 
this manner for a minute or so before stopping it and removing the 
oil pan drain plug; this practice will help carry off the sediment. 

Worn Parts and Heavier Oils—The importance of keeping an engine 
in good mechanical condition can not be overemphasized if the best results 
with respect to correct lubrication, moderate fuel consumption, and ample 


108 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


speed and power are to be had; worn parts, such as have been mentioned in 
item 4, above, make for excessive dilution. 

Even an engine in the pink of condition may be subject to a high degree 
of crankcase dilution when idling for long periods of time, yet this same engine 
would show no dilution whatever when driven at high speeds through the 
countryside. Such an engine will emit dense clouds of oil smoke—bluish-grey 
in color—-when it is driven off after idling for a considerable period, and car 
owners are often prone to believe that a heavier oil than that recommended 
by the car manufacturer will be better for his engine. 

Mahy drivers believe that wear can be compensated by the use of a heavier 
oil. Whether it is oil pumping—accumulation of oil in the cylinders whilst the 
engine is idling—or worn parts that are to be corrected, the use of a heavier 
oil than that recommended by the car manufacturer inevitably results in 
more numerous and more dangerous ills. 

Heavier oils can not replace metal that has worn out in service. They can 
not restore broken or worn pistons and rings. Nor can they make round 
cylinders that have become oval. The use of heavier-bodied oils is always 
followed by such things as fouled spark plugs,, sticking valves, rapid carbon 
formation and its attendant knocking, defective operation of the lubrication 
system in general, lessened power and speed, etc. 

Carbon Formation and Oil Pumping—As a general thing, most 
people blame the oil they are using for rapid carbon formation, when it is their 
carburetor that is at fault. And then, again, it may be themselves that should 
be blamed, because of their poor driving—running with a retarded spark, with 
the choke needlessly pulled out, idling the engine unnecessarily, and the like. 

It is true that oil is to a certain degree responsible for a part of the carbon 
formed in engines, but usually this is because of overoiling. If too much oil is, 
poured into the oil pan, too much will reach the cylinders. Or if the engine 
is idled excessively, oil pumping results—too much oil enters the cylinders. 

Both these conditions—rapid carbon formation and oil pumping—can 
be prevented in a very large measure as follows: 

1. Use the oil recommended in chapter III, part one. 

2. Fill the oil pan to the right level daily, or whenever the engine is used, 
if not daily. Add only sufficient oil to bring the level to FULL on the 
oil level gauge. 

3. Keep the engine in good mechanical condition, and do not use a 
heavier-bodied oil to compensate wear. 

4. Do not use a heavier-bodied oil to increase the oil pressure. If the oil 
pressure is not what it should be, do not attempt to adjust the oil 
pump nor substitute a heavier oil, but determine the cause of the 
condition at once. 

6. Make certain the carburetor is correctly adjusted and that the car¬ 
buretor choke is properly used. Unless the right mixture enters the 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


109 


cylinders, clean combustion can not take place; the oil in the cylinders 
will not be completely burned and a residuum of carbon will be left. 

7. Keep the ignition apparatus in good condition. Defective ignition 
distributor breaker points, fouled spark plugs, and loose connections 
cause misfiring which, in turn, promotes oil pumping and carbon 
formation. 

8. Unless the mixture in the cylinders is highly compressed, it can not 
burn properly. Worn pistons and rings, burned valves, a loose 
cylinder head, or loose spark plugs cause poor compression and should 
be attended to. 

Oil Sludge—Oil sludge—a slimy, pasty substance that forms in the 
oil—must be guarded against even more carefully than oil dilution and 
carbon formation; its presence in the oil will cause more damage to the engine 
parts, and more quickly, than even a high degree of oil dilution. 

The formation of sludge in the engine oil is a result of a combination of 
causes and is really an emulsion—a milky, fatty liquid—formed by water in 
the presence of road dirt, carbon, and minute metal fragments such as are 
always found in the oil pan. 

In general, little is understood by the average car owner of the accumula¬ 
tion of water in the oil pan, but the cause is simple: A cold crankcase—which 
is the condition obtaining in an engine when first started and until it is well 
heated—acts as a condenser of the water vapor in the exhaust gases that 
leak downward past the pistons in even the best of engines. Because of this 
leakage, oil sludge is more likely to form in a worn engine than one in good 
condition. When the crankcase becomes thoroughly warm, as when the engine 
has been run for ten or fifteen minutes, the greater part of these exhaust gases 
no longer condense, but pass through the crankcase breather to the outer air. 

How to Avoid Oil Sludging—The formation of sludge in the oil can be 
prevented, or at least reduced, as follows: 

1. Whilst the engine is warm, drain a cupful of oil from the oil pan. If 
it contains a quantity of water, repeat the operation every three or 
four days, until all the water has been removed. 

2. In cold weather, use a radiator cover. Keeping the operating tem¬ 
perature at a high point reduces the formation of sludge and the 
tendency to dilution. 

Excessive quantities of water accumulate in the oil in cold weather. 
Such water collects in pockets and freezes, thus preventing the cir¬ 
culation of oil. 

3. Clean the oil screen regularly every 1,000 miles (2,000 km.), as directed 
in ROUTINE CARE. 

4. The quality of the fuel used has a direct effect on the accumulation of 
water in the oil; a high test gasoline is best. Endeavor to obtain a 
fuel of the highest quality and use it consistently; avoid the selection 
of fuels at random. See page 25. 


110 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


5. If sludging should occur, make certain every trace of it is removed 
from the oil pan and the lubrication system in general before refilling 
with fresh oil. Do not rely on mere flushing, but remove the oil pan 
and thoroughly clean it and as much of the interior of the engine as 
can be reached. 

Unless the lubrication system is perfectly cleaned after sludge has 
once formed, it will appear again with startling rapidity and the 
complaint will become chronic. 

How Frequently Should the Oil Be Changed?—This figure can be 
placed at 500 miles (1,000 km.) and will meet most driving conditions. The 
only possible exception may be in very cold climates, particularly when a large 
number of short runs is made with frequent starting and stopping of the engine; 
under such circumstances it should be placed at 350 to 400 miles (700 to 800 
km.) depending on local conditions. In any case, it is highly inadvisable to 
exceed 500 miles. 

The best way to handle the matter is to fill the oil pan to the proper 
level and run on this oil until 500 miles (1,000 km.) have been covered, re¬ 
plenishing the supply during this period only if the oil level falls below 
FULL on the oil gauge rod, when sufficient oil should be added to raise the 
oil level to this mark. Test the oil level daily, or each time the engine is 
used, if not daily. 

Do not overfill the oil pan, as this will only cause smoking at the exhaust, 
spark plug fouling, rapid carbon formation, excessive oil consumption, and 
kindred evils. 

After 500 Miles, Drain the Oil Pan— 

1. Run the engine until the oil is well heated and thoroughly agitated; 

2. Remove the drain plug, replacing it when the oil pan is empty; 

3. Pour one quart (1 litre) of clean, slightly heated engine oil* into the 
oil pan, run the engine for five minutes, stop the engine, drain, and 
replace the drain plug. 

4. Fill the oil pan with clean engine oil of the recommended grade. 

Under no circumstances flush the oil pan with gasoline or kero¬ 
sene; use only clean engine oil.* 

Always remember, before draining or filling the lubrication sys¬ 
tem, to remove all dirt adjacent to or on the drain plug, level gauge, 
and the oil filler tube and its cap, to prevent its entrance into the 
lubrication system. 

The engine has an oil capacity of 4 quarts (3.3 imp. qts., 3.78 litres). 

Removing and Cleaning the Oil Pan— 

1. Run the engine until the oil is well heated and thoroughly agitated; 

2. Drain the oil; 

3. Remove the cap screws holding the oil pan to the crankcase; 

*Flushing oil, especially made for this purpose, may be used instead of engine oil 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


111 


4. Thoroughly wash the interior of the oil pan and the connecting rod 
oil troughs with gasoline or kerosene, using a clean cloth free from 
lint or loose threads and a stiff bristle brush; 

5. Wash the oil screen; 

6. Wash the exterior of the oil pan; 

7. Dry and then fill the connecting rod oil troughs with clean engine oil; 

8. Replace the oil pan; 

9. Fill the oil pan to the correct level with fresh, clean engine oil. 

In carrying out the above operations, be careful not to injure the 
gasket between the oil pan and the crankcase, or it will have to be replaced 
to prevent oil leakage. And always take advantage of the opportunity thus 
presented to make a thorough examination of the parts in the crankcase, 
such as the connecting rod and crankshaft bearings, the piston pin bearings, etc. 

The Oil Pressure Gauge—When the engine is running, the oil pressure 
gauge registers the amount of pressure on the oil then being circulated; it 
therefore denotes the degree of force with which oil is fed to the various points. 

IT DOES NOT, HOWEVER, INDICATE THE AMOUNT OF OIL IN 
THE OIL PAN. 

This instrument is really the most important component of the lubricating 
system, for the driver relies entirely upon it for his information as to the sys¬ 
tem’s proper functioning. So long as the gauge shows pressure is being main¬ 
tained on the oil, the driver knows the latter is circulating properly; but 
should the pressure gauge fail to register, the engine should be immediately 
stopped and the cause of the fault determined and remedied. 

Oil Pressure—-The normal oil pressure is 4 to 8 pounds (0.3 to 0.6 kg.) 
Any material increase in pressure beyond these figures, say, to 10 pounds 
(0.7 kg.), indicates an obstruction in the center main bearing oil feed pipe. 
A smaller pressure than 2 pounds (0.14 kg.) is an indication that the lubrica¬ 
tion system is not functioning properly and the engine should be immediately 
stopped and an investigation made to determine its cause. 

Low oil pressure or none at all generally results from air leaks in the oil 
suction pipe connections and can, in most instances, be corrected merely by 
tightening the unions at the lower and upper ends of this pipe. Sometimes, 
however, the oil suction pipe may be cracked or even broken, or possibly 
it may have been so acutely bent that oil will not flow through it; in either of 
these cases the pipe must be removed and repaired or replaced, as conditions 
may dictate. Still another cause may be dirt, carbon,sludge, or other foreign 
matter that has accumulated upon or has passed through the oil screen into 
the oil suction pipe, lodging there, or perhaps found its way into the other 
oil pipes, obstructing them. Such a contingency necessitates removal of the 
oil screen and pipes and their cleaning by blowing out with air or otherwise. 

Finally, if all other measures fail, the oil pump should be examined. 
Disconnect the oil pipes leading to it and remove it from the engine. In re- 


112 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


moving the oil pump cover, be careful not to damage the paper gasket be¬ 
tween it and the oil pump body; if necessary, replace the gasket with another 
of paper of the same thickness. If the oil pump gears are so badly worn 
that their teeth do not fit tightly against one another or against the sides of 
the pump body, replace them. 

Oil Pump Gland—It sometimes happens that a slight leak develops at 
the point where the oil pump shaft enters the oil pump body. In this event, 
the oil pump should be removed and the oil pump gland (a brass, nut-shaped 
piece), sufficiently tightened with a wrench to stop the leak. Do not tighten 
the gland too much lest the shaft be damaged. 

If tightening the gland has no effect on the leak, the old packing should be 
removed and the gland repacked with ordinary candle wicking or soft, well 
greased cord. 

Little or No Oil Consumption—It sometimes happens that an engine 
uses very little oil, or even none at all. In certain extreme cases it has been 
found that more oil—or what looks like oil—is in the oil pan at the end of 
500 miles (1,000 km.) than was put in it at the beginning of that period. 

This condition is generally due to dilution of the oil by unbumed fuel and 
immediate steps should be taken to correct it, such as proper manipulation 
of the carburetor choke, correct adjustment of the carburetor, covering the 
radiator during cold weather, or all three. 

If little or no oil is consumed by the engine, drain a sample from the oil 
pan and examine it. If it is watery in consistency—thin, with but little body, 
or if it smells strongly of fuel, a high degree of dilution is present; the oil 
should immediately be drained from the oil pan and replaced with fresh oil of 

the right grade. 

1 

Chassis Lubrication—Each important point (on the chassis) to be 
lubricated is equipped with fittings (lubricators) for the pressure grease gun 
form of lubrication. Before lubricating, wipe the fittings clean, to prevent 
foreign matter entering the bearings with the grease. 

To fill the grease gun, disconnect the flexible hose from the cylinder 
(see fig. 39); do not twist the hose. Unscrew the piston rod, so that the 
leather cup at its end is drawn up inside the cylinder head; this will facilitate 
replacing the piston in the cylinder. Fill the cylinder with soft cup grease. 

To avoid air bubbles and. completely to fill the cylinder, jar or shake the 
grease by gently tapping the cylinder. Replace the head and screw it down, 

tightening by hand only. 

To use the compressor, slip the coupling at the end of its hose over a 
lubricator, press it in, and turn it to the right, thus locking the coupling and 
ensuring a tight joint. Give the compressor a few turns, until the old grease 
is forced out of the opposite side of the bearing being lubricated. If grease 
does not enter the bearing, it is because the latter is clogged, and it should 
then be disassembled and cleaned. Relieve the pressure by unscrewing the 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


113 


compressor handle three or four turns and remove the coupling by pressing 
in on it and turning it to the left. Wipe the lubricator clean and, before 
storing the grease gun away, remove the hose by unscrewing the hexagonally- 
shaped end and clean it. 

In forcing grease into the bearings, never use anything but the hand to 
turn the handle of the grease gun, as more than enough pressure is obtained 
in this manner to force the dirt and old grease out of the bearings and the 
fresh grease in. Using a tool to increase the pressure can only result in damage 
to the gun, the hose, or the lubricators. A pressure of 500 pounds to the square 
inch (35 kg. to the sq. cm.) is secured merely by the use of the hand. When 
connecting the flexible hose to a lubricator, be careful not to bend it too acutely 
lest it be damaged. The hose should never be twisted in removing it from 
a lubricator or the cylinder; turn it by means of the hexagonally-shaped part. 



Fig. 39. Attaching Pressure Grease Gun to a Lubricator 

A Lubricator B Pressure grease gun flexible hose C Pressure grease gun 


The one certain preventive of improper functioning of the 
engine lubrication system is frequent draining and flushing of the 
oil pan. 

Thorough lubrication of a motor car—and therefore its chances 
of a long life—can be simply and relatively inexpensively ensured by 
the use of plenty of lubricants of the recommended grades. Lubri¬ 
cants are cheap, especially when compared to the cost of replacements 
or repairs of parts worn out before their time by careless lubrication. 

Four quarts of oil will carry your engine 500 miles. Four quarts 
of oil may carry your engine 1,000 miles, also, or 1,500 miles, but in 
this case they will inevitably carry you further than you expect: 
to your banker. 

Why not let the correct use of the right lubricant eliminate the 
“friction” from the satisfaction it is possible for you to derive from 
your car as it does from the bearings of your engine? 







































114 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 40. Sectional Side View of of Carburetor 


1 Priming hole 

2 Idling fuel nozzle 

3 Atmospheric well 

4 Float chamber cover 

screw 

5 Float chamber cover 

6 Float chamber 

7 Fuel inlet 

8 Drain (filter) plug 

17 


9 Fuel passage 

10 Compensating fuel 

nozzle 

11 Drain plugs 

12 Drain hole 

13 Throttle valve 

14 Venturi tube 

15 Cap fuel nozzle 

16 Main fuel nozzle 

Air inlet 



























































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


115 


CHAPTER XIII 

THE CARBURETOR AND FUEL SYSTEM 

High Altitudes—Extremely high altitudes, as in a mountainous country, 
generally necessitate a change in carburetor adjustment to secure satisfactory 
operation of the engine. Hence, if the mixture shows indications of being con¬ 
tinuously rich* it will be necessary to reduce the amount of fuel in it, and it 
is suggested that the car owner have the carburetor attended to by a com¬ 
petent person, instructing him to reduce the amount of fuel in the mixture, 
thus making it leaner. 

A lean mixture is necessary because in high altitudes less oxygen is present 
in the air and were the mixture not changed it would be too rich. Such a con¬ 
dition would be wasteful of fuel and, in addition, would overheat the engine, 
decrease power and speed, and would cause rapid formation of carbon; early 
deterioration of the engine oil by dilution would follow, also. The remedy is 
less fuel. 

Carbon Formation—A mixture is said to be overrich when it contains 
too much fuel or, conversely, too little air. When such a mixture is burned, 
only a portion of the fuel can completely combine with the oxygen in the air 
and, as a result, large quantities of carbon are formed. Although this carbon 
is free carbon, that is, in the form of tiny crystals, and a certain part of it 
is therefore carried out with the exhaust gases, nevertheless considerable 
quantities accumulate on the heads of the pistons and on the cylinder head. 

Such carbon firmly adheres to the metal and during combustion becomes 
white-hot; hence, when these accumulations become large, they cause pre¬ 
ignition—ignition of the charges of fuel and air before they should be ignited, 
thus producing a heavy thump or pound in the engine. This condition if 
permitted to continue is damaging in the extreme and should be corrected 
by cleaning. 

Overheating—In addition to diluting the engine oil and promoting the 
rapid formation of carbon, tpo rich a mixture causes an engine to overheat. 
This condition results in expansion of the pistons, which then become too 
large for the cylinders; the abnormally high temperature of the combustion 
of an overrich mixture burns the oil film on the cylinder and piston walls; 
either of these causes excessive friction, which in turn increases the already 
too high temperature of the engine. The power of the engine is thus greatly 
reduced and parts rapidly deteriorate. 

Vacuum Tank—The function of the vacuum tank is to provide an 
ample and continuous, flow of fuel to the carburetor. This is accomplished 
by taking advantage of the vacuum set up within the cylinders and inlet 
manifold when the engine is in operation and using it to maintain a steady 
flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the vacuum tank and thence to the car - 

*A rich mixture is generally manifested by a black smoke and strong odor to the exhaust, 
sluggish engine action, engine speed fluctuating through more or less regular periods from 
high to low speeds, apparent misfiring, overheating, and excessive fuel consumqtion. 


^ u 



Fig. 41. Stewart Vacuum Tank 


1 Fuel pipe connection 

2 Filler plug 

3 Fuel filter screen 

4 Cover 

5 Valve toggle lever 

6 Valve toggle lever spring 

7 Float lever 

8 Float 

9 Float guide rod 

19 Carburetor fuel 


10 Flapper valve 

11 Drain plug 

12 Vacuum pipe connection 

13 Air vent connection 

14 Air valve 

15 Air passage 

16 Vacuum valve 

17 Inner chamber 

18 Outer chamber 

pipe connection 


















































































































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


117 


buretor. Complete control over the flow of fuel is had by means of a series 
of valves and air vents. 

As a general thing, defective action of the vacuum tank is caused by dirt 
or water in the fuel, mostly as a result of carelessness. Such defective action 
can be readily prevented by taking whatever steps that may be necessary to 
exclude foreign matter from the fuel, such as its proper storage, filtering, etc. 
Leaks, both of fuel and air, can be prevented by periodically tightening the 
pipe joints and the screws in the vacuum tank cover. Beyond this, little 
attention is needed to insure proper functioning of the vacuum tank. 

Caution: Adjusting the Vacuum Tank—Before proceeding with the 
repair or adjustment of the vacuum tank, make absolutely certain the trouble 
is not due to some other cause. 

Vent Tube Overflows*—The air vent, 13, permits of an atmospheric 
condition being maintained in the outer chamber and also serves to prevent 
fuel overflowing in descending very steep grades. If it should happen at long 
intervals that a very small quantity of fuel leaks from the vent, no concern 
need be felt and no adjustment is needed. If, however, the vent tube over¬ 
flows regularly, it is quite likely the air vent in the fuel tank cap is too small 
or clogged with foreign matter, thus preventing the entrance of air through it. 
In this case the hole should be enlarged somewhat or cleaned out, as the case 
may be 

Failure of Fuel Feed to Carburetor—In a difficulty of this nature one 
should remember it may be due to causes other than faults of the vacuum 
tank such as are enumerated in succeeding paragraphs, where directions for 
correcting the difficulty will also be found. 

In event of defective fuel feed, proceed as follows: 

1. See that the fuel shut-off cock is fully open. 

2. Remove the carburetor float chamber cover to determine if fuel is 
in the carburetor. 

3. See that there is sufficient fuel in the fuel tank, at the same time 
noting whether the air vent—the small hole—in the fuel tank cap is 
free from obstructions. 

4. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the vacuum tank. Failure 
of fuel to flow from the vacuum tank drain indicates obstructions or 
air leaks in the fuel pipe, 1 vacuum pipe, 2 fuel tank outlet or suction 
pipe, 3 a jammed vacuum tank valve, sediment in fuel filter, 4 or a 
clogged air vent. 

5. Remove and clean the carburetor fuel filter. 

6. There may be dirt in the carburetor fuel nozzles. Remove and clean 
them, either by blowing through them or by means of a piece of 

fine, soft copper wire. 

♦Stewart tank only 

1. Runs from fuel tank to vacuum tank. 

2. Runs from inlet manifold to vacuum tank. 

3. Runs from interior of fuel tank to connection at rear end of fuel pipe 

4. In top of vacuum tank. 


118 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


7. There may be water in the carburetor. Remove it by opening the 
carburetor drains (8 and 11, fig. 40); inspect the drain plugs for 
leaks after replacing them. 

8. Water may have frozen in the fuel; see page 120 for treatment. 

If the above measures fail, remove the top of the vacuum tank and take 
out the float and other mechanism, leaving only the outer shell in place. If, 
after filling this shell with fuel, the engine still fails to run properly, the fault 
is clearly not that of the vacuum system. 

Should the fault be that of the vacuum tank, as indicated by the engine 
running properly when the outer shell is filled with fuel, and repairs can not 
then be made, plug the vacuum pipe to prevent the entrance of air into the 
inlet manifold and fill the vacuum tank with fuel drained from the fuel tank, 
replenishing the supply from time to time by hand. 

Removing Vacuum Tank Top—After removing the screws in the cover 
of the vacuum tank, insert a knife blade between the latter and the cover 
to separate them without damaging the gasket, which is shellacked in place 
to ensure an airtight joint; if the gasket is damaged in removal, it must be 
replaced with a new one to prevent leakage. 

Leaky Vacuum Tank Float—The vacuum tank float must be air 
tight, for if a leak should develop the float would fill with fuel, thus making 
it too heavy to function properly. Such a condition would prevent the flow 
of fuel into the upper chamber being shut off when it should be. In this 
event, the fuel, after filling the upper chamber, would flow into the inlet 
manifold and thence into the cylinders, probably stopping the engine. 

To repair the float, remove it and immerse it in hot water to locate the 
leak; bubbles will be noticed at the leak and this spot should be marked. 
Two very small holes should then be punched in the float, one at the top 
and the other at the bottom, to permit the fuel to flow out of the float. _ When 
the float is emptied of fuel and thoroughly dry, carefully solder the two holes 
and the leak and test the float by again immersing it in hot water. 

In soldering the float, be careful to use no more solder than is actually 
required to make a substantial repair, because the addition of superfluous solder 
will make the float too heavy to act properly. 

Caution—In removing and replacing the float, be careful not to bend 
the float guide rod,* for if this rod is bent the float will not function properly; 
largely the same effect as a leaky float will result. If the rod is not perfectly 
smooth, improper action will follow; smooth it with fine emery cloth if 
necessary. 

Flapper Valve—Should foreign matter lodge on the flapper valve seat, 
the valve will not close tightly and will be rendered inoperative. To deter¬ 
mine if the flapper valve is out of order, plug the air vent and disconnect 
the carburetor feed pipe. Crank the engine by means of the starter motor 
and apply a finger to the carburetor feed pipe connection (in the bottom of 

* G. G. tank, vacuum valve, also 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


119 


the vacuum tank). If a continuous suction is felt, the flapper valve is not 
properly seated. 

In this case,* pour a half-pint (0.25 litre) or so of fuel into the tank to 
wash away the obstruction on the flapper valve seat. Should this treatment 
fail, remove the inner chamber and wipe the valve seat clean. 



Fig. 42. G 

1 Vacuum pipe connec¬ 

tion 

2 Air vent to inner 

chamber 

3 Vacuum valve 

4 Carburetor fuel pipe 

connection 

5 Fuel filter screw 


G. Vacuum Tank 

6 Fuel filter screen 

7 Fuel pipe connection 

8 Air vent to outer 

chamber 

9 Inner chamber 

10 Float 

11 Outer chamber 

12 Flapper valve 


Air Leaks—Should the connections at either end of the vacuum pipe 
loosen or should this pipe be cracked, air will be drawn into the inlet 
manifold, which will not only cause the engine to run badly but also will 

* G.G. tank, remove the fuel filter; Stewart tank, the filler plug. 





































120 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


prevent proper action of the vacuum tank; very likely a hissing or whistling 
sound will be heard. Tighten the connections; if the pipe is cracked, repair or 
replace it. 

This is also true of the fuel and fuel tank suction pipes, which should be 
treated in the same manner. 

Choked Pipes, Fuel Filters, Etc.—Obstructions in the vacuum pipe 
will prevent the vacuum tank filling with fuel. Remove the pipe and clean it. 

To determine if the fuel pipe is choked, disconnect it (with the engine 
running) from the fuel tank and immediately apply a finger to the opening in 
it. If no suction is felt, the pipe is clogged, and the obstruction should be 
removed by blowing through the pipe. Use compressed air if it is available, or 
force a suitable piece of steel or bronze spring-wire through the pipe. 

The vacuum pipe can be tested and cleaned in the same manner. 

Accumulation of sediment will prevent proper action of the air valve, 
14 (fig. 41), and the air vent, 13, also; the vacuum tank would then fill with 
fuel, but there would be no flow to the carburetor. Remove the air valve, 14, 
and wash it and the air vent, 13, with fuel. 

This is likewise true of the G. G. vacuum tank. If the air vents (2 and 8, 
fig. 42) should become clogged, there would be no flow of fuel to the carbu¬ 
retor; the remedy is obvious—removal of the obstruction. 

The accumulation of foreign matter in the vacuum tank filter-screen 
will prevent the flow of fuel into the inner chamber, although all else be in 
order. Remove the filter-screen andcarefully clean and replace it. 

Remove the filter screen from the carburetor (11, fig. 43) and treat it 
in the same manner. Be careful not to injure this delicate part. 

Accumulations of sediment in the bottom of the vacuum tank will clog 
the fuel outlet in its bottom, thus shutting off the flow of fuel to the carburetor. 
The drain plug or pipe connection should then be removed from the bottom 
of the vacuum tank and the tank itself thoroughly flushed out. In these 
circumstances, it is advisable to disconnect and clean the feed pipe between 
the vacuum tank and the carburetor; or it may be necessary to remove the 
inner chamber. 

Dirt or Water in the Fuel—Dirt or water in the fuel is productive of 
many carburetor disorders; the one certain preventive is care in straining the 
fuel when filling the fuel tank; the remedy, periodical draining and flushing of 
the components of the fuel system, not neglecting complete disassembly and 
cleaning of the carburetor. 

Freezing of Water in the Fuel—Water in the fuel eventually accumu¬ 
lates in the carburetor float chamber, where it impedes the flow of fuel to the 
fuel nozzles and hence causes imperfect running of the engine. In cold weather, 
this water will freeze and it may be impossible to start the engine; at best, 



MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 121 


the latter will run badly. Apply hot cloths to the float chamber (do not use 
a flame), and, when thawed, drain and flush. 

A quantity of water in the vacuum tank or fuel tank will produce the same 
result and should be treated in the same manner. 

Filling the Vacuum Tank—Should the vacuum tank become empty, 
it can be refilled by closing the throttle and cranking the engine ten or fifteen 
seconds with the starter motor. Wait a minute or two and then attempt to 
start the engine. 

If this treatment fails, forcibly strike the side of the vacuum tank with 
the fist; this will loosen the valves should they have jammed and will tend 
to dislodge any foreign matter on their seats. Crank the engine for ten or 
fifteen seconds, wait a minute or two, and again try to start the engine. 

Should failure still result, remove the filler plug* and fill the vacuum 
tank with fuel. Securely replace the plug and start the engine. 

Filling the Fuel Tank—In filling the fuel tank, always carefully strain 
the fuel through a chamois skin or fine metal gauze screen to remoye water 
or other foreign matter. If this precaution is not taken, accumulations in 
the fuel tank of foreign matter are certain to result; carburetor or vacuum 
tank failure will inevitably occur. 

Caution: Danger of Fire—When using a chamois skin to strain the 
fuel, particularly in cold weather, be careful that the funnel is held in 
thorough contact with the fuel tank. Under certain conditions, the flow of 
the fuel through the chamois skin generates static electricity, and were the 
funnel not in thorough contact with the metal of the tank a spark might result 
rhat would set the fuel on fire. There have been instances of such occurrences 
and due caution should therefore at all times be observed. 

Carburetor Air Leaks—Gaskets are fitted to the joints between the 
carburetor and the inlet pipe and between the inlet manifold and the cylinders. 
Should these joints loosen or if the gaskets are broken, air will leak into the 
mixture and dilute it to such an extent that the engine will run badly or not 
at all; it is difficult—and sometimes impossible—to start an engine in this 
condition. 

Air leaks are generally manifested by a whistling or hissing sound and 
are readily detected by the application of fuel to the joint under inspection 
At the point of the leak, the fuel will be drawn into the inlet pipe or manifold 
and the speed of the engine will be momentarily increased. 

Tightening the nuts and cap screws will remedy the condition, but, if 
this treatment does not bring the desired result, it will be necessary to install 
a new gasket. 

A Jammed Float—If the carburetor float should cock in the float 
chamber by reason of the car standing at an angle, as on a roadside, for example, 
either too much or too little fuel will flow into the mixing chamber. In such 


*G. G. tank, fuel filter. 


122 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 43. Sectional View of Front of Carburetor 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 


Throttle valve shaft 
Float chamber cover 
screw 

Float chamber 
Float 

Low speed (idling) ad¬ 
justing-screw 

12 


6 

7 

8 
9 

10 

11 

Drain (filter) plug 


Adjusting-screw lock¬ 
spring 

Float chamber cover 
Needle valve 
Needle valve seat 
Fuel inlet 
Fuel filter screen 









































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


123 


a contingency, the float needle valve (accessible through removal of the car¬ 
buretor float chamber cover) should be raised and lowered a few times to 
release the float. 

Float Needle Valve—Dirt between the float needle valve and its seat 
will prevent the valve from shutting off the flow of fuel into the carburetor. 
Dripping of fuel from the bottom of the carburetor will then occur and, if 
the engine is running, all the characteristics of a rich mixture will be present. 

Lift the needle valve from its seat and hold it thus for a minute or two 
to permit the flow of fuel past the valve to wash the seat clean; then press it 
down against its seat and rotate it a few times. If this treatment fails, close 
the fuel shut-off cock and lift out the float and needle valve (be careful not 
to injure either). Unscrew the plug holding the fuel connection to the bottom 
of the float chamber and remove the filter screen. Wash out the float 
chamber and filter screen and carefully and securely replace all the parts. 

If failure still results, hold the needle valve firmly on its seat with the 
fingers and very gently tap it with a light hammer or similar tool, raising and 
turning it occasionally. This treatment usually forms a new seat for the valve 
and stops the leaking. 

If it becomes necessary to install a new needle valve, fit a new seat also; 
the float level must then be readjusted. 

If the needle valve should be bent, as a result of rough treatment, it 
will not seat properly and the flow of fuel will not be shut off. It is best to 
have it straightened by a skilled mechanic or replaced. 

Leaky Float—In the event that the mixture is continuously rich, test 
the carburetor float for leakage as outlined above with respect to a leaky 
vacuum tank float, the repair being made in the same manner. 

Adjustment of the Carburetor—Do not attempt to adjust the car¬ 
buretor until you are certain the engine has good compression in each cylinder, 
that the ignition apparatus is in perfect condition, that the flow of fuel from 
the vacuum tank to the carburetor is sufficient, that the carburetor choke is 
pushed all the way in, and that the engine is well heated. 

When adjusting the carburetor, set all the spark plug gaps, using the 
gauge furnished for this purpose. Individual engines differ, however, and the 
car owner should therefore remember that the best results are had by setting 
the spark plug points slightly more or less than the gauge calls for, arriving 
at the correct setting for his particular engine by experiment. 

Zenith Carburetor—The Zenith carburetor is fitted with but one 
manually variable adjustment—that of the idling device. This device is used 
to adjust the minimum low speed of the engine—to throttle it down; any other 
variation of the mixture that may become necessary can be accomplished only 
by changing the various fuel nozzles and should be attempted only by a 
thoroughly competent shop. 


124 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Turning the low speed adjusting screw (5, fig. 43) inward gives a richer 
mixture; outward, a leaner one. 

11 Too rich a mixture, when throttled down, will be indicated by the 
engine running in a surging, irregular manner, with a strong odor to the 
exhaust and, possibly, black smoke. Open the throttle to clear the inlet mani¬ 
fold of the rich mixture, close it, and then turn the idling screw outward until 
the engine runs smoothly. 

A lean mixture is manifested by the engine running in a jerky manner; 
possibly misfiring will occur; in extreme cases the engine will stop running. 
Turn the adjusting screw inward until smooth engine action is obtained. 

The best results are obtained by adjusting the low speed adjusting-screw and 
the throttle stop-screw simultaneously. Set a screw driver on the throttle stop- 
screw and, with the fingers of the other hand, turn the adjusting-screw inward 
or outward to enrichen or lean the mixture, at the same time adjusting the stop- 
screw to gain the desired throttling speed. It will usually be found possible 
to lean the mixture as the throttle is brought closer to the closed position. 

Adjusting the Throttle —An adjusting-screw is provided on the car¬ 
buretor throttle lever to prevent the engine stopping when the throttle is 
closed. To adjust, close the throttle hand lever (on the steering column 
tube) and turn the adjusting-screw in to prevent the throttle from closing too 
far, or out so it can close farther. Do not make this adjustment until 
the engine is well heated. 

Care of the Carburetor —Keeping the carburetor free from dirt and 
water is practically the only care necessary. This should be done periodically 
by removing the fuel connection, filter screen (11 and 12, fig. 43), and drain 
plugs (11, fig. 40), and cleaning them with fuel or compressed air. It is very 
important that the filter screen be replaced and that it be in good condition. 
If it is dirty, it will shut off the flow of fuel; if there are holes in it, solid 
foreign matter will pass-through it and clogg the fuel nozzles. If necessary, 
the entire carburetor can be taken apart and cleaned and assembled without 
danger of changing any of the adjustments. 

Fuel Knock —Under certain operating conditions and with the use of 
certain fuels, what is known as a fuel knock occurs. This knock, extremely 
hard to locate but quite rare, is caused by a peculiar condition set up in the 
cylinders when the mixture is admitted and burned. If, after all other causes 
of the knock have been eliminated, it still persists, another kind or brand of 
fuel should be tried. Usually, however, a fuel knock will disappear if the 
mixture is made slightly richer. 

Most cases of improper functioning of the fuel system are due to 
foreign matter in the fuel. Periodical draining and flushing of the 
various parts comprising the system are most efficient preventives, 
particularly if periodically and carefully carried out. 


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Fig. 44. Wiring Diagram 













































































































126 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER XIV 

THE STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM 

The starting and lighting system comprises three major units, the uses of 
which are obvious: One, the storage battery (see chapter XV, part three, for 
details); two, the starter motor; and three, the generator. Beyond seeing that 
the two latter parts are periodically lubricated and the connections of the wires 
leading to and from them kept clean and tight, little attention is required. 
The storage battery, however, should be looked after much more frequently 
than the motor or the generator. 

Care of the Generator —The generator should be occasionally examined 
to see that all connections are tight and that there is no undue wear of the 
moving parts. Disconnect the storage battery and remove the cover from the 
generator’s rear end, thus exposing the brushes and commutator, and examine 
the parts mounted therein. 

Cleaning the Commutator —The commutator, which is composed of a 
number of bars or segments of copper separated by thin pieces of mica, thus 
insulating the one from the other, may become blackened or rough. In this 
case, insert a flat, thin, wooden stick about 1 inch (25 mm.) wide, the end of 
which is covered with a clean piece of heavy woolen cloth. Press this against 
the commutator whilst the engine is running slowly to clean it. 

If the commutator still remains black or rough, it should be smoothed 
with a piece of No. 00 fine sandpaper. Hold the sandpaper against the commu¬ 
tator by means of a flat stick wide enough to cover the entire width of the 
commutator, so that the latter is evenly smoothed; care must be taken to pre¬ 
vent the formation of grooves in it. Run the engine slowly and, at the com¬ 
pletion of the operation, carefully blow or clean out all dust and particles of 
metal. Under no circumstances use emery-cloth or -paper for this 
purpose. 

The Brushes —See that the generator-brushes make good contact with 
the commutator and that they are not noisy (squeaky). Examine the brush- 
holder springs to see that they have not become weakened; the spring tension 
should not be excessive, as this will cause heating and unnecessary wear; 
the brushes should make even contact with the commutator. If, when the 
engine is running, pronounced sparking is noticed between the brushes and 
the commutator, refit or replace the former; if this does not remedy the con¬ 
dition, remove the generator armature and turn it down in a lathe to eliminate 
the grooves or other irregularities. 

Sparking might also be caused by the mica insulation between the com¬ 
mutator segments projecting above these segments; in this event, remove the 
armature and under-cut the mica. 

Regulation of the Charging Rate —Should the generator not keep 
the battery sufficiently charged or if the electrolyte boils away (evaporates) 
too rapidly, the charging rate should be regulated. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


127 


Loosen the clamp-screw (on the rear upper side of the plate on the com¬ 
mutator end of the generator; see 7, fig. 45) holding the third-brush in position 
and swing the latter in*the direction the armature rotates to increase the 
rate, and in the opposite direction to decrease it; securely tighten the clamp- 
screw. The armature turns to the left—anti-clockwise, when viewed from the 
rear or commutator end. 



Fig. 45. Third-Brush Adjustment 

1 Generator 4 Generator commutator 

2 Third-brush holder 5 Third-brush 

3 Generator-brush 6 Generator rear end-plate 

7 Third-brush adjustment clamp-screw 

This adjustment should be made with the engine running at a sufficiently 
high rate of speed to drive the car, on high gear, at 25 miles (40 km) an 
hour. Connect an ammeter in the charging circuit and carefully note the 
charging rate; neither the lamps nor the horn should be in use when making 
this adjustment. Generation of charging current should commence at a car 
speed, on high gear, of approximately 10 miles (16 km.) an hour*; with the 
lights turned off and the horn not in use; the charging rate should not exceed 
16 to 18 amperes when the generator is hot. 

Refit the Brushes —It may be necessary to refit the third-brush to the 
generator commutator after changing its position in adjusting, to ensure its 
being in thorough contact; the other brushes are fitted in the same manner. 

♦Sufficient power should be generated at this speed to supply the lights and ignition. 






128 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Insert a strip of fine sand-paper or sand-cloth (DO NOT USE EMERY\ 
slightly wider than the brushes, so that it snugly encircles the commutator, 
with the rough side next to the brushes. Seat (fit) all three generator-brushes 
by drawing the sand paper back and forth a few times. Clean out all par¬ 
ticles of sand and metal. 



Fig. 46. Generator and Oil Pump 


1 Oil suction pipe 

2 Oil distributor pipe 

3 Oil pump 

4 Oil pressure gauge and 

center main bearing 
pipe 

5 Ignition distributor 


6 Cable, ignition dis¬ 

tributor to coil 

7 Wire, ignition breaker to coil 

8 Ignition coil 

9 Reverse current cut-out 

10 Generator 

11 Lubricator 


It is most advisable to have such operations as smoothing the commutators 
witn sand paper, refitting brushes, under-cutting mica, and regulation of the 
generator output attended to by a reliable shop. Such work calls for skill and 
expert knowledge and should never be attempted by a novice, as it most 
likely will result to his disadvantage. 

The Starting Motor —The starting motor requires the same care and 
attention as the generator. 























MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


129 


Starting Motor Drive—The mechanism on the rear end of the starting 
motor armature shaft, which automatically engages and disengages the starting 
motor pinion with the fly-wheel gear when the starting motor is set in operation 
to crank the engine, should be occasionally examined. It will be noticed that 
a spring is fitted to this mechanism, the function of which is to absorb the 
shock of suddenly meshing the pinion with the fly-wheel gear in cranking the 
engine. It sometimes happens that the bolt holding this spring in position 
loosens, and it should, in such an event, be tightened. Due to improper use of 
the starter, the spring may become bent out of shape; should this occur, its 
replacement is the best repair. 



Fig. 47. Starting Motor 

1 Lubricator 5 Starting motor pinion 

2 Armature shaft 6 Threaded shaft 

3 Spring 7 Connection, starting switch to starting 

4 Spring bolts motor cable 

Vibration may cause the bolts holding the starting motor to the engine to 
loosen, when the starting motor very likely will shift slightly out of alignment 
with the fly-wheel and cause the starting motor pinion to mesh improperly. 
Under these conditions the pinion will engage violently with the fly-wheel 
gear when the engine is being cranked by the starting motor and considerable 
noise will ensue. The remedy is properly to align the starting motor with the 
fly-wheel and then securely to tighten the bolts. 

Caution—Under no circumstances apply oil or grease or other form of 
lubricant to the threaded shaft on which the starting motor pinion operates. 
This shaft should at all times be free from any lubricant or from any other 
matter that would cause it to become sticky or gummy, as this would prevent 
proper action. If this condition should arise, thoroughly wash the pinion and 
the threaded shaft with gasoline or kerosene. 

Never apply lubricants of any kind to the commutator of either the start* 
ing motor or the generator, as no lubricant is required at these points. 










130 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Reverse Current Cut-out —The function of the reverse current cut-out 
(sometimes called the circuit-breaker or relay; see fig. 48) is automatically 
to disconnect the storage battery from the generator when the voltage of the 
latter is less than that of the former; this is the case when the engine is 
operating at a low rate of speed, or when it is not running. 



Fig. 48. Reverse Current Cut-out 

1 Contact points 3 Outer winding 

2 Battery positive connection 4 Generator connection 

The reverse current cut-out is entirely automatic in action. It requires 
no lubrication, and but little attention beyond seeing that the wires leading to 
it are tight. If for any reason it should fail to operate properly, it should be 
adjusted at a competent shop or returned to the manufacturer. Should it be 
removed from the car the engine must not be operated until the 
generator is grounded (see p. 134). 

Every 1,000 miles (2,000 km.), remove the cover from the cut-out and 
examine the contact points, as they may have become burned or pitted. 

Bums or pits can be removed by means of a fine jeweler’s or Swiss file 
or a piece of fine (No. 00) sandpaper. Insert the file or sandpaper between 
the contact points and, pressing the points lightly together, pull it straight 
out. This operation should be repeated until the pits and burns have been 
removed. Exercise every care that perfectly square, clean, flat contact 
surfaces are obtained. Do not move the file or sandpaper back and forth 








MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


131 


between the points, as this has a tendency to round their edges; convex 
rather than square surfaces result. 

The contact points should open from 0.010" to 0.016" (0.25 to 0.4 mm.). 

The cut-out contact points will chatter if— 

1. The points come together too soon; 

2. The polarity of the generator is reversed; 

3. The battery terminals are reversed. 

To prevent needless burning of the cut-out contact points before the 
generator automatically changes its polarity, correct the latter by closing 
the contact points when the engine is not running. See that the contact 
points separate when they are released. 

The cut-out contact points will not close if— 

1. They are dirty; 

2. The generator shunt winding is open (loose or broken);. 

3. The cut-out is incorrectly adjusted; 

4. The generator is out of order; 

5. The generator commutator is dirty; 

6. The generator-brushes are sticking; 

7. The wire from the generator to the battery is disconnected or 

broken. 

Items 1, 2, 3, and / immediately above will cause the generator-windings 
to burn out. 

The Ammeter —The amperemeter (usually called ammeter) is the 
current measuring instrument of the starting and lighting system; it is 
mounted on the instrument board under the observation of the driver. 

The dial or face of the meter is divided into two parts, one marked 
CHARGE and the other DISCHARGE. When the generator is charging, 
that is, when it is generating electricity, the hand or pointer will swing a pro¬ 
portionate distance across the CHARGE side of the dial; but if current is 
being consumed, as when the lamps are in use, the hand will swing across the 
DISCHARGE side. 

Under certain conditions, however, the ammeter may still show CHARGE 
when the lamps are in use, or the hand may register “O”; this condition is 
caused by the charging rate of the generator exceeding the current consumption 
or equalling it. 

When the engine is not running, there is, of course, no generation of 
current. In this case, any discharge shown on the ammeter indicates actual 
consumption—the amount of current then flowing from the storage battery. 

The ammeter should read ‘ O'* when the engine is not running and all 
lights, etc., are turned off. Under these conditions, any other reading indicates: 

1. Ammeter reading incorrect; 

2. Short-circuit or ground in wiring system or switch; 

3 Ammeter is defective. 


132 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


The ammeter will show a discharge at low engine speeds, but it should 
show a charge when the car is driven at more than 10 miles (16 km.) an hour, 
with the lights, horn, etc., not in use. If it shows a discharge with the engine 
at rest and the lights and horn not in use, immediately investigate so as to 
prevent discharge of the storage battery. 

With all lights on, a speed of approximately 10 miles (16 km.) an hour will 
be required to show a charge. At lower speeds than this the ammeter may 
show a discharge. 

If the ammeter never shows a charge, look for: 

1. Injury to the ammeter; 

2. A short-circuit may prevent the current passing through the ammeter; 

3. The reverse current cut-out may be out of order; 

4. An open-circuit (a broken wire or loose connection) between the 

generator and the battery; 

5. Generator out of order. 

If at any time the ammeter shows a discharge in excess of 15 amperes, 
the wiring system should be examined for a short-circuit. 

If the ammeter shows a charge with the lights in use and the engine not 
running, it indicates: 

1. Battery terminals reversed (improperly connected— the negative 

battery terminal must be connected to the frame); 

2. Ammeter connections reversed. 

Should the ammeter be removed from the instrument board* do 
not run the engine without first having connected together the two 
wires that lead to it. 

Improper Functioning of the Generator —If the battery is not being 
properly charged, the following should be looked for: 

1. Examine all connections and see that they are tight and clean; 

2. Adjust charging rate; 

3. See that the generator commutator and brushes are clean; 

4. See that the generator-brushes make good contact with the commutator; 

5. Examine the brush springs to determine if they are holding the brushes 

firmly against the armature; 

6. See that all nuts and screws are tight. 

If the generator is working properly, the following should be looked to: 

1. See that all nuts and screws are tight; 

2. See that the connections of all wires are clean and tight; 

3. See that the ammeter is in proper order (this can be done by turn¬ 

ing on the lights with the engine at rest; if the ammeter does not 
register, it should be repaired or replaced); 

4. Examine the battery (see chapter XV, part three), as it may be at 

. fault; 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


133 


5. Examine the wiring for a ground (in this case an end of a wire may 

be. touching a metallic part of the car other than that its termi¬ 
nal is attached to, or insulation may have worn through, permit¬ 
ting the then exposed wire to make contact with some other metal 
part); 

6. Look for a broken or disconnected wire between the generator and 

storage battery; 

7. Examine the reverse current cut-out contact points, to see that they 

come together when the engine is running. 

Improper Cranking of the Engine —If the motor fails properly 
to crank the engine, the fault may lie in a partly or completely discharged 
battery* ; proceed as outlined in chapter XV, part three. The following should 
be examined, also: 

1. See that all connections, especially those on the battery and the 

switch, are clean and tight; 

2. See that the starting switch is clean and that it makes good contact 

(if in doubt, place a screwdriver or similar tool across the two 
terminals on the bottom of the switch; if the starting motor then 
operates the fault lies in the switch, but if it does not operate, the 
fault lies elsewhere); 

3. See that the starting motor brushes make good contact with the com¬ 

mutator and that the latter is .clean and free from oil; 

4. See that the starting motor pinion has not jammed; 

5. See that the starting motor pinion engages properly with the fly¬ 

wheel gear; 

6. See that the storage battery is in good order; 

7. Examine the wiring in the starting circuit to see that none of the 

wires is broken, nor any of the insulation worn through, thus 
grounding (short-circuiting) a wire; 

8. See that the gearshift lever is in neutral. 

If the starting motor continues to run after the starting switch has been 
released, the latter is in need of adjustment. 

Starting Motor Pinion Jams —In the event that the starting motor 
pinion should jam in mesh with the fly-wheel gear, it can be released by tapping 
it rearward with a block of wood and a hammer. If this should fail, move the 
gearshift lever into high speed and push the car backward and forward. 

This condition is a result of improper alignment of the starting motor with 
the fly-wheel gear. 

Lamps —If a lamp fails to light, it very likely is due to a burned-out lamp 
bulb. However, such a condition may result from some other cause; if replacing 
the bulb fails to remedy the difficulty, examine the fuse at the back of the 
lighting and ignition switch. If the fuse is at fault, replace it with a new one. 
If any doubt is felt about the condition of the fuse, test it by inserting a small 

* Using the starter with the battery in a state of low charge will cause the starting motor to 
operate at less than normal speed and will damage the commutator through excessive sparking. 


134 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


piece of steel or copper wire between the two clips that hold the fuse in place. 
If the lights then still fail to burn, the trouble lies elsewhere than in the fuse. 

The fuse is of 15 amperes capacity. 

Examine the wires for any breaks or worn insulation that would cause a 
short-circuit or a ground. The switch connections, as well as the interior of the 
switch, should also be inspected. If the battery is completely discharged, or 
nearly so, the lights will burn very dimly, or perhaps not at all. 

When the head-lamp reflectors become tarnished, take great care in re¬ 
polishing them to prevent scratching. The reflectors are silver-plated and 
very highly finished, and are easily scratched even when cleaned with a soft 
material. (See chapter XIX, part three, for details on cleaning and polishing.) 

Lamp Bulbs —The candle-power, voltage, etc., of the lamp bulbs are as 
follows: 


Head-lamp.....6-8 volts; 21 c. p.; single contact 

Instrument-lamp..6-8 volts; 2 c. p.; single contact 

Tail-lamp...6-8 volts; 2 c. p.; single contact 

Dome-lamp.... 6-8 volts; 2 c. p.; double contact 


If lamps of a higher candle-power than those listed above are used, the 
current consumption will be increased and the battery will discharge more 
rapidly. If the car owner considers it necessary to have greater illumination 
and therefore uses larger lamp bulbs, it may be necessary to have the charging 
rate of the generator increased 

Do not remove the motor or generator from the engine nor 
attempt to change any of the connections at the back of the ignition 
and lighting switch or the ammeter without first having disconnected 
the cable from the negative terminal of the storage battery—the cable 
connected to the frame. 


In the event that you should run the engine with the battery* 
removed from the car or disconnected from the generator, it is vitally 
important that the latter be grounded or short-circuited by a piece of 
wire connected between the generator terminal f and the reverse 
current cut-out mounting screw. Under no circumstances should the 
engine be run until this is done. Failure to observe this precaution 
will burn out the generator windings and ruin it. 

Do not apply lubricants of any kind to the commutators of the 
motor or generator, as no lubrication is required. As a matter of fact, 
the presence of a lubricant on the commutators will cause faulty 
operation of the motor or generator. 

The wisest rule to follow in the care of electrical apparatus is not 
to tinker with it or any of its adjustments. Attention should be con¬ 
fined to lubrication, cleaning the various parts, and to seeing that 
all the connections are clean and tight, and that the wires of the 
various circuits are protected from injury, such as chafing or exposure 
to oil, grease, or water. 

* This caution applies to removal of the reverse current cut-out, also, 
t On the bottom side of the generator. 






MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


135 


CHAPTER XV 

THE STORAGE BATTERY 

What is a Storage Battery? —Possibly the term storage battery—which 
is in reality a misnomer—has given rise to the prevailing misconception of 
its true nature, because storage implies the storing away of something, such 
as storing water in a tank, to remain there until needed. 

Electricity is not stored away in a storage battery until needed. It is 
caused to flow into the battery and out of it by means of the two wires attached 
to it, but none of the electricity stays there; it merely causes a certain change 
to take place within the battery. Hence, when the battery is used, this change 
reverses itself and in doing so gives forth electricity somewhat less in amount 
than the volume of current used in charging it, thus restoring it to its original—• 
uncharged—condition. 

An Electro-Chemical Machine —Many people are under the impression 
that a storage battery receives and stores up electricity during the charging 
process. On the contrary, charging a storage battery sets up a certain electro¬ 
chemical action between its positive and negative plates in the presence of an 
electrolyte—a battery solution composed of pure water and pure sulphuric 
acid in certain proportions. This action does not store up electricity; it 
produces a chemical change in these plates. Thus, when a circuit (an un¬ 
interrupted path for the electric current to follow) is established between the 
battery terminals, as when a battery is discharged—when electricity is taken 
from it—the material with which the plates are filled changes back to, its 
original condition and an electric current is given off. Electricity is generated 
in the battery in as full a sense as in an electrical generator. 

Warranty —Exide batteries are guaranteed by the manufacturers, the 
Electric Storage Battery Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U. S. A., to 
be free from defects in material and workmanship. 

At any time within three months from the date of delivery of the car to 
the purchaser any battery which may prove to be defective or incapable, when 
fully charged, of giving its rated capacity, will be repaired or replaced free 
of expense on receipt, transportation charges prepaid, at any Exide battery 
depot or authorized Exide battery service station. This guarantee does not 
cover the free charging of batteries, nor the making good of damage resulting 
from continued lack of charge, nor from failure to keep the plates covered with 
solution by filling the cells from time to time with pure water. No claims on 
account of alleged defects can be allowed unless made within three months 
of date of delivery of the battery to the purchaser, and the right is reserved 
to refuse to consider claims in the case of batteries opened by other than 
authorized battery service stations. 

The Willard Storage Battery Company, of Cleveland, Ohio, U. S. A., 
have adopted the following service policy for owners of cars equipped with 
Willard threaded-rubber-insulation batteries: 


136 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


1. They will insure every Willard threaded rubber insulation battery 

for three months from the date of purchase, provided the battery 
is registered at the nearest Willard service station or at the nearest 
dealer authorized by the service station to do such work. 

If any repairs are necessary during this three months period, for any 
reason whatsoever, they will be made without charge to the car 
owner by the Willard service station or by any dealer authorized to 
do such work. Any imperfect material or workmanship in a Willard 
battery will manifest itself in the battery’s performance within the 
first three months of ownership and claims must be made within 
that period. 

Recharging or the use of rental batteries is not classed as repairs and 
such services will be charged to the car owner. 

2. Threaded-rubber-insulation in Willard batteries will last the life of the 

plates or it will be replaced without charge by any Willard service 
station or by any dealer authorized to do such work. 

3. Repairs not included in the above will be charged to the car owner. 

Registration of Batteries —Car owners, are earnestly urged to co¬ 
operate with the battery manufacturer by taking their cars as promptly as 
possible after receipt to the nearest Exide or Willard battery service station 
in order that the battery may be registered and its condition and installation 
checked. No charge is made for this inspection. 

Battery Charging —Three conditions must be met in order successfully 
to charge storage batteries: 

1. Direct current must be used (if only alternating current is available, 
some device, such as a rectifier, for changing alternating to direct 
current, is necessary); 

2. It must be determined which of the charging wires is positive and 
which negative, because in order to charge the battery the current 
must flow through it in but one direction; 

3. A resistance or other form of current regulating device must be used 
to keep the charging rate at the proper figure, as too high a rate will 
seriously injure the battery. 

Positive and Negative Polarity Test —The polarity—the direction in 
which the current flows—of any direct current power line can be determined 
by dipping the ends of the two wires to be tested into a glass of water in which 
a teaspoonful of common table salt or a small quantity of electrolyte from 
the battery has been poured. Do not let the ends of the wires come together 
(make contact). Fine bubbles of a colorless gas will be given off at the negative 
wire. In making this test, observe both wires very carefully, for a small 
quantity of bubbles will appear on the positive wire, also. 

A voltmeter can also be used to make this test. 

After the polarity of the charging circuit has thus been determined 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


13 7 



Fig. 49. Exide Storage Battery 


1 Wood case 

2 Negative strap 

3 Post 

4 Post gasket 
Cell connector 

6 Filling plug gasket 

7 Filling or vent plug 

8 Handle 


9 Sealing nut 

10 Cell cover 

11 Sealing compound 

12 Rubber jar 

13 Positive strap 

14 Wood separator 

15 Negative plate (grey) 

16 Positive plate (brown) 




























































































138 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 



Fig. 50. Willard Storage Battery 


1 Negative plate 

2 Positive plate 

3 Insulation (separator) 

4 Connecting strap 

5 Battery box 

6 Hard rubber jar 


7 Hard rubber cover 

8 Sealing compound 

9 Top connector 

10 Vent plug 

11 Negative post 
Positive post 


12 

13 Rubber gasket seal 


permanently mark each wire, using “ + ” on the positive and “—” on the 
negative, so as readily to distinguish them. 

Resistance Apparatus —When charging the battery with direct 
current taken from lighting, railway, or power lines (the usual sources of 
power for charging purposes), some form of resistance is necessary to regulate 
the charging current. A number of lamps is the cheapest and simplest resist¬ 
ance to use, a requisite number being connected in parallel (see fig. 51). 
Screwing the lamps in or out of their sockets, so that they are burning or out, 
varies the charging rate within sufficiently close limits. 

The charging rate for one lamp burning is, roughly, the wattage of the 
lamp divided by the voltage of the charging line. For example, a 50-watt, 
110-volt lamp will give a charging rate of about half an ampere; or a 110-volt 
100-watt lamp will ensure a charging current of about one ampere; hence, 
two 100-volt, 100-watt lamps equal a charging rate of about two amperes. 

Use Ordinary Carbon Lamps —Ordinary carbon filament lamps are 
the most satisfactory for this purpose because they are cheaper and have a 











MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


139 


higher resistance. They are, however, rated in candle-power and not in watts. 
A 16 candle-power, carbon filament lamp gives a charging rate of about one- 
half an ampere of charging current. 

Figure 51 shows a six volt battery being charged by means of four 100- 
watt tungsten filament lamps or four 32 candle-power of the carbon variety, 
connected in parallel. This combination provides a charging rate of about 
four^amperes on a 110-volt circuit. Figure 51 also shows the connections to be 





D 


6 

— i 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o~ 


o- 


C 


Fig. 51. Battery Charging 

Left—110-volt circuit, lamps in parallel. Right—220-volt circuit, lamps in series-parallel. 
A. Charging circuit. B. Switch. C. Lamps. D. Negative connection. E. Positive connection. 

used if the line voltage is 220 and only 110-volt lamps are available for use. 
In such a case, employ two lamps connected in series, in four groups, making 
eight lamps in all. This connection gives a charging rate of four amperes. 

Measure the Charging Rate —Connect an ammeter in the charging 
circuit to ascertain the charging rate. 

Charging with Delco-Light —It is possible to charge a motor car 
battery from an isolated farm lighting plant, such as the Delco-Light, if 
desired. Figure 52 shows the method of connecting a six volt battery. 



Fig. 52. Charging Battery with Farm Lighting Plant 

Disconnect wire "B” from “G” and connect to “H,” as shown. 
Connect "G” with “E” by wire “C," as shown. 

























































































140 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Battery Terminals: Positive—Negative —All batteries have their ter¬ 
minals plainly marked. The positive terminal is marked "POS" or “P” or 
“ + the negative is marked “NEG” or “NT or “—In putting a battery 
on charge, always connect the positive terminal of the battery to the positive, 
and the negative terminal of the battery to the negative charging wire. Failure 
to observe this precaution is very likely to ruin the battery, due to changing 
the polarity of the battery plates. 

Remove, Vent Plugs —When a battery is placed on charge, remove the 
vents or filling plugs. After charging for several hours, gas bubbles will 
appear on the surface of the electrolyte; this is known as gassing. During 
charging, all cells should gas freely; if a cell does not gas, it indicates that 
t hat cell is not charged or that there is some internal trouble. 



Fig. 53. Battery Hydrometer 

Left —Specific gravity reading, fully charged battery. Center —Battery type syringe hydro¬ 
meter. Right —Specific gravity reading, discharged battery. 





























MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


141 


Gassing —When the charging has proceeded to a point at which all cells 
are gassing freely, the charging current should be reduced. If this is not done, 
excessive heat will develop and the battery may be seriously injured and 
possibly ruined. The temperature of a battery on charge should be carefully 
watched; if it rises above 110° F. (43.3° C.), entirely cut off the current until 
the battery is cool or reduce the charging rate. 

Correct Charging Rate —The correct charging rate, starting and fin¬ 
ishing, will be found stamped on a plate attached to the side of the battery-case. 

Hydrometer Readings —Hydrometer readings should be taken at least 
three times a day during charging. When hydrometer readings have remained 
the same after four hours of continuous charging, the battery may be assumed 
to be fully charged. In this case the specific gravity should be between 1.280 
and 1.300. If any of the cells do not come within these limits after charging, 
a battery expert should be consulted. 

Add Distilled Water —During the charging process all the cells should 
be plentifully supplied with distilled water, but do not add so much water 
that the solution boils or flows over the top of the battery. It should be 
remembered in this connection that hydrometer readings taken 
immediately after water has been added to a battery are worthless, as 
the water has not had time in such a case thoroughly to mix with the electrolyte. 
Wait at least one hour after filling with water before taking hydrometer 
readings. 

Gassing—Caution —Gassing is caused by minute bubbles of hydrogen 
gas being given off during the charging process. As hydrogen gas when mixed 
with air is highly explosive, do not let a flame or a spark come close to the vent 
holes of the battery whilst charging or for several hours after taking the battery 
off charge, lest a serious explosion occur. 

Specific Gravity in Hot Climates —In climates where the average 
temperature is around 90° F. (32° C.) or more, it is recommended that the 
specific gravity of a fully charged battery be maintained at 1.250 instead of 
from 1.280 to 1.300. This, it will be noted, is 30 to 50 points lower than 
standard. 

In sections where extremely high temperatures prevail throughout the 
year, an even lower specific gravity is desirable—from 1.200 to 1.220. 

This change in specific gravity is best accomplished by charging the 
battery at a low rate and then replacing the electrolyte with one of a lower 
specific gravity; it is not to be made if low or freezing temperatures 
prevail even for part of the year. 

Battery in Winter —Because of the greater demand on it, a battery is 
generally in a more or less discharged condition in winter and the owner should 
therefore very carefully watch its condition, taking specific gravity readings 
of the electrolyte oftener than in summer. 


142 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


—A battery will freeze as indicated below: 


Danger of Freezing 

yi discharged 
Yi discharged 
% discharged 
Discharged 


1.255 specific gravity 
1.220 specific gravity 
1.185 specific gravity 
1.150 specific gravity 


-60° F. (-51° C.) 
-25° F. (-32° C.) 
8° F. (-22° C.) 
5° F. (-15° C.) 



Fig. 54. Plates from Frozen Battery 

The Battery Out of Service —Since a battery will discharge if left idle, 
it should have special attention when the car is laid up for any protracted 
period; it is best to send it to a battery repair shop for storage whilst the car 
is out of use. If the services of such a shop are not conveniently available to the 
car owner, it is suggested that he proceed as follows: 

At intervals of two weeks, run the engine until the specific gravity of the 
solution is 1.250 or higher. If this is done regularly every two weeks, it will 
be necessary to run the engine only about one hour each fortnight. To charge 
the battery properly under these conditions, the engine should be run at a speed 
equal to a car speed of approximately 20 miles (32 km.) an hour on high gear. 

If current (power or lighting) is available, the battery can be maintained 
in good condition by charging every two weeks in the manner outlined on 
page 136. A twelve-hour or overnight charge every two weeks will suffice to 
keep the battery in excellent condition. In using a power or lighting circuit 
for charging the battery when it is mounted in the car, disconnect the heavy 
cables leading to it; only the wires of the outside charging circuit should be 
connected. 

To take a Specific Gravity Reading —To take a specific gravity reading, 
the following directions should be observed: 

1. Remove the vent plugs from the cells; 

2. Compress the bulb of the hydrometer syringe and insert its end 
through a vent hole into the electrolyte; 

3. Release the bulb until sufficient solution is drawn from the cell into 
the hydrometer tube to cause the hydrometer float to rise (see fig. 53); 

4. Hold the syringe in a vertical position so that the float does not touch 
the sides of the tube; the specific gravity reading is taken on the float 
scale on a line with the top of the solution; 






MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


143 


5. Compress the bulb and let the electrolyte run back into the same cell 
from which it was taken; 

6. Replace the vent plugs. 

Test each cell in this manner. 


Mixing Electrolyte—The proper proportions of sulphuric acid and water 
used in mixing storage battery electrolyte is given in the following table: 


Specific Gravity 
1.200 
1.225 
1.250 
1.275 
1.285 
1.300 
1.335 


Parts of Water by Volume to 
One Part of Pure Sulphuric 
Acid (Sp. Gr. 1.835) 

43is parts of water to 1 part of acid 
3 % parts of water to 1 part of acid 
3 34 parts of water to 1 part of acid 
2% parts of water to 1 part of acid 
2 2 A parts of water to 1 part of acid 
234 parts of water to 1 part of acid 
2 parts of water to 1 part of acid 


In mixing electrolyte, acid should always be poured into water— 
never water into acid, as this latter practice may cause serious per¬ 
sonal injury. Care must be exercised, also, that only acid and water of 
good quality are used. Only distilled water should be employed, and the acid 
should be secured from a reliable source. 


Distilled or Pure Water —By distilled or pure water is meant water 
which contains nothing injurious to the battery. Water may be excellent for 
drinking and yet contain some substance that will harm the battery. Distilled 
(not merely boiled) water; melted artificial (not natural) ice; rainwater (if 
obtained in the open country from a clean place or shingle covered roof); 
generally any of these are satisfactory. Water for battery use should be kept 
only in clean, covered vessels of glass, china, earthenware, rubber, or lead; 
under no circumstances should other kinds of vessels be used. 


Never add acid to the electrolyte in an attempt to bring up its specific 
gravity, or, rather, to charge the battery. It is true that this practice will 
increase the specific gravity of the electrolyte, but it can not charge the 
battery; in fact, it will only damage it. Under these conditions, a cell may read 
1.300 and still be completely discharged. If, however, any of the electrolyte in 
a cell is accidentally spilled, replace it with a mixture of acid and water of 
1.300 specific gravity. 

Add Distilled Water —Pure or distilled water must be added often 
enough to keep the battery plates covered, for if they are exposed for any 
length of time, serious damage will result. 

The best rule to follow is to remove the vent plugs once a week without 
fail and add pure water if the tops of the plates are exposed; in very hot 
weather, and particularly on long runs, this should be done daily—every 
200-250 miles (400-500 km.). 


144 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


It is of the highest importance that the car owner, or his chauffeur, adhere 
strictly to this rule. Do not add so much water that the battery solution 
will boil up over the outside of the battery whilst it is being charged. 



Fig. 55. Electrolyte Level and Thermometer 
Left—Correct level of electrolyte: (10 mm.). Right—Dairy thermometer. 


Do Not Add Anti-Freeze or Other Compounds to Electrolyte— 
Under no circumstances should denatured alcohol, kerosene, or other anti¬ 
freeze compounds, or any other substance be used in the electrolyte with 
a view to preventing freezing, for such compounds are exceedingly harmful. 
The only safe way to prevent a battery from freezing is to keep it at all times 
fully charged. 

Battery recharging solutions sold under various trade-names at high 
prices are generally nothing more than ordinary electrolytes of about 1.245 
specific gravity and are entirely useless. In addition to this, some of these 
solutions contain such substances as sodium sulphate, nitric acid, etc., and 
their addition to a battery will very greatly shorten its life. 

Keep the Battery Dry —The storage battery and the compartment it 
is in should be kept clean and dry at all times. The top of the storage battery 
is always more or less moist, and if this moisture is not occasionally wiped 
off it may soak into the battery case to such an extent that a short-circuit 
will occur. 

Corrosion —The most common effect of neglect in this respect is the 
formation of a yellowish-white substance (iron sulphate) around the battery 
handles and iron parts in general, and a greenish or a whitish salt (copper 
or lead sulphate, respectively) around the terminals. These salts should be 
wiped off as soon as they appear and the parts affected thoroughly washed 
with a dilute ammonia solution or one of common baking soda (sodium bi¬ 
carbonate) and water, and, when dry, coated with vaseline. 

















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


145 


Cleanliness—Failure to keep the battery itself and the battery compart¬ 
ment in a perfect state of cleanliness and as dry as possible will result in 
extensive corrosion of the battery parts and of those parts of the car adjacent 
to it. If this corrosion becomes excessive, it is best to drive the car to a battery 
repair shop and have the battery and its compartment painted with an acid- 
proof paint. 



Fig. 56. Result of Overfilling Battery 


Overheating—One of the most prolific causes of battery ills is over¬ 
heating and results in buckled or warped plates, which cut through the insula¬ 
tors and in most cases injure the battery. There are several causes for over¬ 
heating; any of or all these may be avoided if the battery is given proper 
attention. 

The most common cause is failure to keep the battery filled with distilled 
water, so that the plates and insuiaLOxs are completely covered with electrolyte. 

Overheating results from continued undercharging, also. When plates 
remain in this condition, they harden and hence offer such resistance to the 
charging current that the temperature of the battery rises. This condition 
usually results from the inexperience or carelessness of the driver, lack of 
judgment in use of the lights, or operation of the starter oftener than is 
necessary. 

On the other hand, overheating may result from overcharging. If the 
engine is used for a protracted period, that is, if long trips are made in which 
the starter and lamps are used but seldom, or not at all, the driver should 
stop occasionally to feel the terminals of the battery; if they are sensibly 
hot to the touch, all the lights should be immediately turned on and the 
journey finished in this manner. In taking battery temperature, a careful 
owner will secure a dairy thermometer and during very hot weather or on 
long trips will, from time to time, take the temperature of the electrolyte; 
if necessary, he will add water (distilled) to the electrolyte during the journey. 


146 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Temperature Danger Point—Under no circumstances should the 
temperature of the battery be allowed to exceed 110° F. (43.3° C.), as 
serious injury will result. ADJUST THE GENERATOR TO MEET 
DRIVING REQUIREMENTS. 



Fig. 57. Damaged Battery Plates 

Left—Overheated battery plates, caused by sulphation. Center—Buckled battery plates. 
Right—Showing effect of lack of distilled water. 


The work a battery is called upon to do varies with the driving require¬ 
ments of the individual car owner. A city physician who has many short 
runs during the day with frequent starts and stops and a commercial traveller 
or tourist who travels at a relatively high speed on long uninterrupted trips 
demand radically different sorts of service from their batteries. As a general 
proposition, the charging output of the generator is regulated to meet most 
driving conditions, but should the car owner notice that due to some peculiar 
requirements he has to meet in his driving the battery temperature tends to 
rise beyond a safe figure, it is advisable for him as quickly as possible to consult 
a competent battery shop and have the charging rate of his generator reduced 
to a point that minimizes the heating. 

Improper Functioning of the Battery —In the following list of causes 
of improper functioning of a storage battery, most contingencies have been 
covered. Lest the car owner, however, be appalled at so lengthy a list of 
possible battery failures, he will do well to bear in mind that none of them 
arises from inherent defects either in the battery itself or in the starting 
and lighting system; all, or nearly all, these faults result from abuse or neg¬ 
lect or from improper conception of what use of a battery entails. In short, 
proper use and care will eliminate them all. 






MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


147 


SYMPTOMS 

CAUSES 

REMEDIES 

Battery slowly loses its 
charge 

Slight short-circuit or 
ground in external 
wiring; insulation on 
wires oil soaked 

Examine and repair all 
wiring 


Deteriorating wood 
separators (insulators) 
in battery 

Install new wood sep¬ 
arators 


Battery short-circuited 
by sediment accumu¬ 
lation 

Clean out sediment 

Battery suddenly 
ceases to function 

Short-circuit in exter¬ 
nal wiring 

Examine and repair all 
wiring; reinsulate 


Wood separators punc- 
tured by buckled 
plates 

New plates may be 
necessary 


Foreign substance may 
have entered battery 

Repairs depend on 
character of impurities 

Battery weak in cold 
weather 

Battery frozen 

Battery discharged 

Very difficult to repair; 
try a long charge at a 
low rate 

Recharge 

Specific gravity does 
not come up on charge 

Plates sulphated; ac¬ 
tive material crystal- 
ized 

Try long charge at one- 
half the finish rate 


Lack of electrolyte; 
electrolyte spilled or 
otherwise lost 

Have specific gravity 
balanced (adjusted) 
by a good battery man 


Presence of impurities 

Take battery to bat- 
ery repair shop 

Specific gravity low; no 
strength; starter will 
not crank engine 

Battery uncharged 

Generator not func¬ 
tioning 

Charge from external 
source; use lights and 
starter sparingly 

Have generator regu¬ 
lated by expert 

Continuous low specific 
gravity; low level of 
electrolyte in one cell 

Wood separators start¬ 
ing to deteriorate 

Cracked or broken jar 
or cover 

Have battery reinsu¬ 
lated 

Have broken jar or 
cover replaced 

Overheated or buckled 
plates 

Level of electrolyte 
low; generator out of 
adjustment 

Fill with distilled water; 
regulate generator 
output or burn lamps 








148 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


SYMPTOMS 

CAUSES 

REMEDIES 

Broken down (deteri¬ 
orated) wood separa¬ 
tors 

Adding acid instead of 
water; continuous 
charging at normal 
rate after battery is 
fully charged 

Have specific gravity 
adjusted by compe¬ 
tent battery man; 
burn lights while 
making long daylight 
runs 

Lights not steady 

Discharged battery; 
loose battery termin¬ 
als ; loose or dirty con¬ 
nections at switch, 
lamps or battery 
ground 

Recharge; tighten ter¬ 
minals; examine all 
wiring 

Starting motor does 
not crank engine 

Battery discharged 
Corroded or loose bat¬ 
tery terminals 

Loose connections in 
starting switch 

Starting motor out of 
adjustment 

Broken wire 

Starting pinion j ammed 

Recharge 

Inspect, clean, tighten, 
and grease terminals 
Inspect switch 

Inspect brushes and 
commutator 

Inspect wiring 

See page 133 

Generator does not 
charge 

W orn generator 
brushes 

Open-circuit (broken or 
disconnected wire) 

Adjust, or replace if 
necessary 

Secure the services of 
a reliable electrical re¬ 
pair man 

Inspect all wiring con¬ 
nections 

Generator charges at 
too high or too low a 
rate 

Generator out of ad¬ 
justment 

Have generator adjust¬ 
ed by expert (see 
chapter XIV, part 
three) 

Electrolyte boils out of 
battery vents; bat¬ 
tery hangers corroded 
Battery handles badly 
corroded 

Overfilling 

Generator out of ad¬ 
justment 

Cracked battery cover 
Leaky sealing of bat¬ 
tery cover 

See instructions on 
proper filling 

Regulate generator 
Replace cover 

Have battery resealed 

Electrolyte leaks out 
around posts 

Hole in battery vent 
plug clogged 

Leaky post sealing 
Overfilling 

Battery loose in hang¬ 
ers ; clamps loose 

Remove obstruction in 
vent 

Have post resealed 

See instructions on 
filling 

Tighten clamps; have 
battery repaired 








MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


149 


SYMPTOMS 

Battery terminals cor¬ 
roded 


CAUSES 

Leaky terminal posts; 
sloppy filling 


Lead plating on ter¬ 
minals worn out 


REMEDIES 

Clean all external parts 
with a solution of 
ammonia or baking 
soda and water 
Clean terminals and 
cover with insulating 
tape; apply heavy 
coating of vaseline or 
similar material 


Metal battery hangers 
badly corroded 


Leaky battery jar or 
cover 

Sloppy filling; boiling 
due to overfilling or 
excessive charging 


Replace defective part 

Clean hangers and 
paint with acid-proof 
paint 


Practically all cases of improper functioning can be averted by 
three things: Cleanliness of the battery and its compartment; tight¬ 
ness of the battery cable connections; and frequent and regular 
addition of pure water to the cells requiring it. 




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MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


] 51 


CHAPTER XVI 

THE IGNITION SYSTEM 

Care of the Ignition Distributor Breaker Points—Frequently in¬ 
spect the ignition distributor breaker points and clean them whenever their 
condition warrants it. Points in good condition have a frosted appearance 
and are a uniform grey in color. Badly pitted points should be replaced with 
new ones. 

The breaker points should open 0.025" to 0.030" (0.64 to 0.76 mm.). Use 
the gauge attached to the distributor wrench to determine the correct opening. 

The breaker points must be kept absolutely clean and completely free from 
grease and oil at all times; they should make even contact with one another 
over their entire surfaces. Should they spark excessively when the engine is 
running, or appear dirty or burned, clean and dress them, using a fine, flat 
Swiss or jeweler’s file. Insert the file between the breaker points and draw it 
straight out; repeat this operation until the points are square, with even 
surfaces. Do not move the file back and forth between the points, as this will 
round off their edges and will result in a convex rather than a flat surface. 
Do such work carefully, directing every effort toward securing absolutely 
square surfaces. It will then be necessary to adjust the points to open the 
correct amount; it is advisable at this time also to check the correctness of 
the ignition timing. 

It may be necessary to adjust the breaker points once or twice during the 
first 2,000 miles (4,000 km.) of driving; thereafter practically no attention is 
necessary other than occasionally to note whether their adjustment is correct 
and that they are clean and free from burns, etc. 

To Adjust the Breaker Points—Loosen the breaker adjusting-screw 
lQck-nut (15, fig. 58) and turn the adjusting-screw (8, fig. 58) inward or 
outward so as to provide a gap of 0.025" to 0.030" (0.64 to 0.76 mm.); use the 
gauge attached to the distributor wrench to determine the right gap. 

Too large a gap will cause the engine to run badly—misfiring will probably 
result; too small a gap has the effect of retarding the spark and will also result 
in a poor running engine. 

Timing the Ignition—The ignition is timed as follows: 

1. Remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine by hand until No. 1 
inlet valve (the second valve from the front of the cylinder head) has 
opened and closed. Insert a screwdriver or similar tool through 
No. 1 spark plug hole into the cylinder (see fig. 9). Continue to 
crank the engine by hand until no further upward movement of the 
piston can be felt with the screwdriver; this point is the upper dead 
center of the compression stroke. Remove the starting crank to 
prevent further movement of the pistons. 


152 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


2. Adiust the breaker points so as to open 0.025" to 0.030" (0.64 to 
0.76 mm.). 

3. Move the spark hand lever to the retard position. 

4. Remove the cam lock-nut (11, fig. 58) and, by means of the special 
wrench, loosen the cam from the end of the shaft (see fig. 59.) 

5. Turn the cam until the driving-pin (21, fig. 58) assumes the position 
shown in fig. 59. 

6. Continue to turn the cam in the direction of the arrow until the 
breaker points (14, fig. 58) begin to open, that is, the point at which 
the contact surfaces actually begin to separate.* 

7. Securely hold the cam in this position and tighten the lock-nut. 

In making the above adjustment, exercise every care against back-lash 
(looseness) between the distributor gears causing inaccurate timing. The 
ignition is correctly timed when turning the distributor forward (in the direc¬ 
tion it rotates) ever so slightly causes the breaker points to separate, and 
turning it backward causes them to make contact with one another. 




Fig. 59. Timing the Ignition, Distributor System 

1 Cam driving-pin 2 Distributor cap locating-pin 3 Breaker points 4 Cam 
A. Removing the cam lock-nut B. Loosening the cam C. Turning the cam to correct position 

A piece of cigarette paper (or other very thin tissue paper) can be used to 
determine exactly when the breaker points separate. Insert the paper be¬ 
tween the points and attempt to draw it from between them, turning the rotor 
forward the while. When the breaker points are accurately adjusted—and the 
ignition therefore correctly timed, it should be possible, at that point at which 
the rotor can be turned no farther in the direction in which it rotates, to draw 
the paper from between the points without tearing it. 

*In this position, the contact-segment (16, fig. 58) in the outer end of the roter-arm should 
be closest to the terminal-exteosion (1, fig. 58) of No. 1 spark plug cable, when the rotor-arm 
and distributor cap are replaced. 




















MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


153 


Firing Order—The firing order of the cylinders (the sequence in which 
ignition occurs) is 1-2-4-3. It is necessary, therefore, in connecting the spark 
plug cables to the terminals on the distributor, that they be so arranged that 
this sequence is retained. No. 1 distributor terminal is connected to No. 1 spark 
plug, and the next one (in the direction the rotor turns) to No. 2 spark plug. 
No. 3 terminal, however, is connected to No. 4 spark plug, whilst No. 4 is 
connected to No. 3 spark plug. 



Fig. 60. Ignition Coil. 


1 Terminal, ignition coil to ignition 
breaker wire 

2 Resistance unit center-screw 

3 Resistance unit 


4 Terminal, ignition coil to ignition 
distributor cable 

5 Terminal, ignition switch to ignition 
coil wire 


Resistance Coil — In order to prevent too much current flowing through 
the ignition coil and to protect it from injury arising from leaving the ignition 
switch turned on with the engine not running, a resistance unit (3, fig. 60) 
is fitted. Since this part is connected in series with the battery, that is, the 
current flowing from the battery or generator must pass through it before 
entering the ignition coil, it automatically holds the voltage at the right 
figure and thus makes possible at all times a uniform spark at the spark plugs. 

In the event of the ignition system not functioning properly, it is advisable 
to examine the resistance unit before looking elsewhere for the fault, as the 
resistance wire may have burned out — broken, due to too much current. 
Should this prove to be the case, a temporary repair can be made by dis¬ 
connecting the wire from 5, fig. 60, and connecting it to 2, fig. 60. 

Replace the resistance unit with a new one at the earliest opportunity, and 

USE EVERY CARE THAT THE IGNITION IS NOT LEFT TURNED 










154 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


ON WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, or the ignition coil will be 
burned out—rendered useless. 

To Test the Ignition Coil— Remove the distributor cap. Crank the 
engine by hand until the breaker points close—are in contact with each other. 
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 

Hold one end (bare metal) of a piece of copper wire on the ignition coil 
terminal marked BATTERY (5, fig. 60) and brush the other end (also bare 
metal) against some metal part of the engine. If no spark or flash results, a 
loose connection or a broken, disconnected, or short-circuited wire is indicated 
between the battery and the ignition switch or between the latter and the 
ignition coil; or the ignition switch may be at fault or the battery discharged. 

If a spark or a flash results, test for ignition spark by holding one end 
(bare metal) against the metal base of the ignition coil* and the other end with¬ 
in 3ds ,/ (3.0 mm.) of the ignition coil high tension terminal (4, fig. 60). 

With the ignition switch still in the on position, quickly open the breaker 
points—that is, separate them. If the ignition coil is in good condition, a 
spark will jump across the gap thus formed. If no spark is obtained, the coil is 
not grounded—its metal base is not making go6d contact with the generator— 
or it has been damaged. 

It is inadvisable to attempt ignition coil repairs except in properly 
equipped and qualified shops. 



Fig. 61. Spark Plugs 


1 Spark plug shell 4 Porcelain core 

2 Spark plug gap 5 Copper-asbestos gasket 

3 Center electrode 6 Spark plug terminal 

Spark Plugs —Pay particular attention to the condition of the spark plugs 
and their gaps. The spark plugs, both inside and outside, should at all times 
be kept free from accumulations of oil and carbon. Water, likewise, should 

*In making'this test, use a piece of insulated wire or a shock will result. 









MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


155 


be prevented from reaching the porcelain or mica core, as its presence there 
provides a path for the current, which would then flow from the spark plug 
terminal to the spark plug shell without passing through the central electrode, 
thus causing the plug to misfire. 

Spark Plug Gaps —The spark plug gaps should be adjusted to provide an 
opening of about the thickness of the gauge attached to the distributor wrench, 
although this amount can be slightly varied with advantage to meet the 
needs of the individual engine; approximately 0.030" (0.76 mm.),.is the right 
figure. If the gaps are too large, it is quite probable that difficulty will be 
experienced in starting the engine; misfiring almost certainly will result, par¬ 
ticularly on a hard pull, and the general operation of the engine will be poor. 

It should always be remembered that although a spark can jump a spark 
plug gap when the plug is removed from the cylinder it does not necessarily 
follow that it will do likewise in the cylinders. The reason for this is that the 
compressed gas within the cylinders offers a much higher resistance to the 
passage of the current than is encountered in the open air. 

Spark Plug Defects —If the core of a spark plug is cracked or broken, 
or if the spark plug points are covered with oil, or should the inner part of 
the core be covered with a deoosit of carbon, the plug will not fire (a spark 
will not jump across the gap). In any of these cases, with the exception of 
that of a cracked or broken core, the plug should be thoroughly washed with 
gasoline and a stiff brush, the points adjusted to the proper gap, and then 
replaced in the cylinder. 

A cracked spark plug core is very difficult to detect. The quickest way 
of determining if the core is at fault is to remove the plug in question and 
substitute a new one; if the condition is remedied in this manner, the cracked 
or broken core should be replaced with a new one or a new plug substituted. 

Starting a Stubborn Engine —Should great difficulty be experienced 
in starting the engine and after all other remedies have been tried and have 
failed, the desired result can sometimes be obtained by towing the car or 
coasting down a long and quite steep hill. 

To prevent grinding of the gears when either of these expedients is resorted 
to, shift into high gear before the car is set in motion, but keep the clutch 
disengaged. When the car has reached a speed of 15 to 20 miles (25 to 30 km.) 
an hour, gently engage the clutch; if the engine is cold, manipulate the car¬ 
buretor choke in the usual manner. Do not forget to turn on the ignition 
switch. 

As the car is now travelling at the rate of 15 to 20 miles an hour and the 
clutch is engaged on high gear, the engine will be turning over at a compara¬ 
tively high rate of speed; unless some adjustment is radically wrong, the engine 
will start. 

Caution —If the car is being towed, be careful to use as long a tow rope 
as is practical, to prevent running into the car ahead when the engine starts; 


156 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


and, needless to say, when coasting down a hill is resorted to, some means 
should be provided for having the car brought back to the garage should the 
engine still fail to start. 

Engine Fails to Start —If the engine fails to start and it is believed the 
ignition is at fault, proceed as follows: 

1. Make certain the ignition switch is on. 

2. Turn on the head-lamps and note whether their light is dimmed when 
the starting motor is used. If so, test the storage battery to determine 
if it needs charging. Possibly the battery terminals are loose or 
corroded; or there may be a loose connection in the wiring at some 
point between the battery and the ignition switch or ignition dis¬ 
tributor. If the battery is in a discharged condition, it may still be 
possible to start the engine by hand-cranking, or by towing or 
coasting 

3. Remove a spark plug cable from a spark plug and hold its terminal 
tV 7 (4.7 mm.) away from some metal part of the engine whilst the 
latter is being cranked by means of the starting motor. The spark 
should readily jump across the gap thus formed. 

If no spark is obtained, test the ignition coil (see p. 154). If the coil is 
functioning properly, look for a disconnected, broken, or grounded high 
tension wire. Possibly the distributor rotor arm may be broken or missing, or 
the distributor cap may be cracked. 

4. Examine the distributor rotor and breaker points. They should be 
clean and free from oil or grease. See that the breaker points are not 
burned, that they make even contact with one another, and that their 
gap is correct. 

5. Examine the distributor head and rotor and the spark plug cables and 
other wires for cracked or broken insulation; possibly a wire is oil- 
soaked and its insulation hence defective. 

6. Examine the spark plugs; they may be fouled with oil or short-circuited, 
their gaps may be too large or too small, or the porcelain cores may be 
cracked. 

Engine Stops —First, ascertain if sufficient fuel is in the fuel tank and 
that it is reaching the carburetor, and then examine the ignition system, as 
described in Engine Fails to Start, above. 

Engine Misfires Regularly —Regular misfiring in one or more cylinders 
is most probably caused by fouled spark plugs. To locate the plug, or plugs, 
at fault, throttle down the engine, with the spark retarded. Short-circuit the 
spark plug under test by placing a piece of metal, such as a screwdriver, 
between the spark plug terminal and some metal part of the engine; be careful 
to hold the screwdriver by its wooden handle or a shock will result. If short- 
circuiting the plug under test produces no appreciable change in the engine s 
speed, the plug is not firing; if it causes the engine to run more slowly or stop, 
or to run irregularly, the plug under test is firing properly. If the spark plugs 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


157 


are all in good condition and the misfiring continues, it may be due to some 
other cause, such as a broken spark plug cable, a loose or disconnected wire or 
cable, a stuck valve, etc. 

Engine Misfires Irregularly—Irregular misfiring may be caused by 
dirt or water in the carburetor, or by air leaks, sticky valves, etc. If the 
ignition is at fault, look to the following- 

1. Dirty, burned, or improperly adjusted breaker points. 

2. Loose connections in the battery circuit. Examine the connections 
at the back of the ignition switch and the ammeter, and at the dis¬ 
tributor, reverse current cut-out, and generator. The battery terminals 
may be loose or corroded, or the battery ground connection may not 
be tight. 

3. A wire may be short-circuited. Examine the spark plug cables and 
the cable running from the distributor to the ignition coil. 

4. The spark plug cable connections may be loose. 

5. The spark plugs may be dirty, or their gaps too large or too small. 

Under no circumstances should the engine be run whilst the bat¬ 
tery is out of the car, or disconnected from the generator, without 
first having grounded or short-circuited the generator (see p. 134). 

Three things are prerequisite to efficient ignition: One, absolute 
cleanliness of the distributor and the breaker points; two, absolute 
tightness of all wire connections; three, correct adjustment of the 
breaker and the spark plug gaps. These three conditions fully met, 
perfect ignition will result. 

If you are not absolutely certain of your ground, it is best in mak¬ 
ing adjustments or repairs of ignition apparatus to avail yourself of the 
services of a competent mechanic. Ignition adjustments and repairs 
are not difficult nor are they involved, but a slight inaccuracy will 
cause results entirely out of proportion to the degree of error. 


158 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER XVII 

• THE TYRES 

In all probability, most of the so-called tyre troubles result from misuse. 
Tyres receive much less attention than they should and short life is the 
inevitable result. 

Non-Skid Chains —Non-skid chains that are improperly adjusted or 
fastened to the spokes of the wheels in such a manner that the chains can 
not move result in injury to the treads of the casings.* In most cases the 
treads are cut through to the fabric (the canvas carcass of the casing) and are 
loosened and badly worn. When chains are applied loosely enough to work 
around the casings, the resulting wear is evenly distributed over the entire 
tread. 

Do not use non-skid chains oftener than is absolutely necessary. 

Cuts —The neglect of small cuts in the tread of a casing is productive 
of rapid deterioration. When such cuts are not promptly repaired, water works 
its way into the canvas carcass and rot soon,develops. In addition to this, 
sand enters and gradually is forced between the tread and the carcass. This 
condition, known as sand boils, produces prominent lumps or protuberances 
on the tread. The result is a tread loosened from the carcass and an untimely 
end to the casing's usefulness. 

It is unnecessary to remove the tyre to repair small cuts of this nature. 
Most tyre companies sell a compound for filling sm all cuts, the use of which 
will prevent moisture and sand from working their way into the fabric. The 
car owner is strongly advised to purchase such repair materials and make use 
of them, thus adding miles to the life of his tyres. 

Misaligned Front Wheels —This condition generally affects both tyres 
equally, although sometimes but one is injured. As has already been remarked 
in chapter VII, part three, improper adjustment of the steering knuckle tie-rod 
or a bent steering knuckle arm is responsible for misalignment. The preventive 
is periodical inspection and adjustment whenever necessary. 

Wear Caused by Brakes —Locking of the wheels, caused by sudden 
application of the full braking effort and particularly from unequalized brakes, 
causes very rapid wear of the rear tyres. When the brakes are applied in 
this manner, one or more of the wheels is prevented from rotating and there¬ 
fore slides over the road surface. This results in the tread and part of the 
canvas of the casing being badly worn or scraped off at a number of points. 
Correct adjustment and use of the brakes will prevent this condition. 

Evils of Under-Inflation— One of the greatest evils in connection with 
the use of pneumatic tyres is that of under-inflation. Since a tyre depends 
on the pressure of the air within it to maintain its shape, it follows that too 
low a pressure will cause the tyre to flatten in a proportionate degree when 

* A casing is the outer part of a tyre; the tube; the tyre’s inner part. 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


159 


carrying a load. Such a condition results in the canvas throughout the casing 
being alternately bent and straightened and ultimately causes a continuous 
break in the side wall of the casing. 

Correct Tyre Inflation —Inflate tyres to the following pressures 

Cord Fabric 



Lb. 

Kg. 

Lb. 

Kg. 

Roadster 

40 

2.75 

50 

3.5 

Touring 

50 

3.5 

60 

4.25 

Coupe 

45 

3 25 

55 

4.0 

Sedan 

60 

4.25 

65 

4.5 


The above pressures are based on the weight of the car and occupants; if 
this is materially increased, proportionately increase the inflation pressure. 

Frequent and periodical testing with a tyre pressure gauge, followed by 
immediate inflation if necessary, will add miles to the life of the tyres. If 
the pressure falls 10 per cent, or more below the above figures, inflate the tyres. 

Regardless of what you may be told by well-intentioned but misinformed 
persons, tyre pressure in hot weather is practically unincreased by heat. 
Under such conditions it may rise 10 per cent.—but no more—and the tyres 
should therefore not be partly deflated, as is often the practice. 

Suggestions —All tyres are constructed to carry a certain maximum 
weight, the total weight of the car and its passengers being distributed among 
the four tyres of the car. Overloading the car beyond the maximum carrying 
capacity of the tyres will have its effect in shortening their life. 

Do not turn corners nor run over sharp obstructions such as railroad 
tracks at a high rate of speed. Running over large, sharp stones in the road 
is likewise bad practice. The fabric—canvas carcass—of a casing is very 
easily damaged or entirely broken through in this manner, resulting in a 
more or less large hole through which the inner tube blows out. 

Scraping against curbs or running in railroad tracks or ruts has a damaging 
effect on the side walls of the casings. This treatment wears off the thin coating 
of rubber at this, the weakest point and exposes the fabric to the entrance of 
moisture, thus soon causing rot. 

If a tyre continues to lose pressure after frequent inflations, examine the 
valve, as it may be leaking. Turn the wheel so that the valve is uppermost, 
remove the valve cap, and test the valve for leakage by immersing it in a glass 
of water. The core, or inside, of the valve, which can be screwed in or out by 
means of the slotted head of the valve cap, may be at fault and should be 
replaced with a new one. If the leaking persists, replace the tube with another 
and immediately repair the defective one. 

If a tyre should be punctured, immediately stop the car and repair or 
replace the damaged tube. At the same time examine the casing both inside 
and outside for a nail or a piece of glass. Running even 100 yards (100 m.) on 
a punctured tyre may ruin both the casing and tube. 


160 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Never place a tube in a casing that has been punctured until the cause of 
the puncture has been found and removed. 

Do not store spare inner tubes with tools unless protected against the 
injury that is bound to result. Encasing the tubes in bags—especially made 
for this purpose and readily procurable from most dealers—is the best practice 
to follow; the tubes should be cleaned and well dusted with tyre talc before 
placing in a bag. 

Tubes are stored by folding them into a compact package (see fig. 62). 
Remove the valve core by unscrewing it with the slotted end of the valve cap, 
to allow the air to escape. Twist the tube so that the valve projects outward 
and roll up the tube. Hold the tube in this position and replace the valve 
core and cap, fold it into a package, and securely bind it with a cord or an 
elastic band. 

Oil and grease are highly destructive to rubber. The garage floor should 
at all times be kept clean. If the tyres come in contact with such matter, wash 
them off with gasoline as soon as possible. 



If the car is not in use in winter, the tyres should be removed from the 
rims, partly deflated, and stored away in a cool, dark, dry place. In this 
regard, it should be borne in mind that strong light has a deteriorating effect 
on rubber and should be avoided whenever possible. 

Do not under any curcumstances store the car away with the tyres 
mounted unless it is jacked up to relieve them of its weight. 
































MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


161 


CHAPTER XVIII 

RIMS AND WHEELS 

Care of the Rims —Keep the rims clean and free from rust at all times; 
the use of a tyre flap or liner between the rim and the inner tube is advisable. 
Should rust appear, remove it with sand or emery cloth and paint the ritn 
with shellac or a good graphite (black lead) paint; there are a number of 
preparations to be had for this purpose. 

A little oil or grease applied to the nuts, bolts, and wedges is of value 
in preventing rust and will facilitate changing a rim. 

Creaking Spokes or Wheels —Creaking spokes or wheels (wood) result 
from unequally tightened demountable rim wedges or loose spokes, the latter 
caused by the wheel being excessively dry or abuse. Loosened spokes can 
sometimes be temporarily repaired by soaking with water, but it is always best 
to have a wheelright attend to them. 


162 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER XIX 

THE BODY WORK AND CAR EQUIPMENT 

Wash the Car —It is best at all times to wash the car before mud has 
had a chance to dry on the highly finished surfaces, because mud while still 
soft is most easily removed; if allowed to dry on a varnished surface, mud 
mars the finish. 

If running water is available for washing, a hose should be used, but in 
this case the full pressure of the water should not be permitted to strike the 
surfaces being cleaned. High water-pressure has a tendency to drive the hard 
particles of sand and the like into the varnish. Do not use hot water as this, 
too, is injurious. Flow the water on with a hose (from a bucket, if a hose is 
not available) until all the mud has been removed, when the surfaces should 
be gone over with a carriage sponge continuously saturated with water. 
Grease or road oil can be washed off with a sponge and soap and water, but 
avoid strong rubbing as much as possible. (See chapter III, part one, for 
soap specifications.) Avoid as much as possible the use of soap on the body 
and bonnet; use it sparingly on the mud guards, running gear, etc., also. 

It is highly desirable that soap, as such, be prevented from coming into 
direct contact with the varnished or enameled surfaces of the car. Use a soap 
solution —one to two pounds of soap to each gallon (0.5 to 1 kg to every 4 
litres) of water, heating the water until the soap is completely dissolved. In 
washing the wheels, mud-guards, etc., of the car, add one quart (one litre) of 
this strong soap solution to each pail of water. Do not use even the soap 
solution on the body of the car; wash it only with clear water, flowed on. 

At the conclusions of washing with soap and water, thoroughly rinse all 
the surfaces with fresh water, when the car should be wiped dry and polished 
with a clean chamois skin. Before using the chamois, soak it in cold water 
and wring it dry, repeating this from time to time during the drying process. 
Keep two chamois skins for this purpose, one for use only on the body work 
and upper side of the mud guards, and the other for use on the wheels and other 
parts of the running gear. After washing, the car should not be left standing 
in the bright sunlight, as it will dry too rapidly and streaking of the finish will 
result. 

It is advisable to shower a new car with cold water and then to rub it dry 
with a clean chamois skin. This should be done before the car gets dirty, to 
set the varnish by hardening it with cold water and thus prevent the per¬ 
manent lodging of dust in the still soft finish. 

Care of the Top —Dust, dirt, mud, or grease should not be allowed to 
remain on the inside or the outside of the top (hood). From time to time the 
outside of the top should be cleaned with a dry, stiff brush, or, if convenient, 
it should be washed with pure soap and water and a sponge and then thoroughly 
rinsed. Gasoline, kerosene, or naphtha, or any other rubber solvent should 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


163 


never be used, as the rubber in the fabric would be injured and the top per¬ 
manently damaged; in all probability leaking would result. From time to time 
the inside of the top should be thoroughly brushed out and washed with pure 
soap and water, using a brush or a sponge for the purpose, and then rinsed 
with cold water. The side curtains and the top envelope should receive the 
same treatment. 

Never put the top down when it is wet, for in addition to causing per¬ 
manent wrinkles or creases, rotting or mildewing of the fabric is certain to 
result. This is true of the side curtains, also, and they, too, should be dry 
before storing away. 

Do not brush the windows or lights in the side and rear curtains; they 
should be wiped with a soft cloth or sponge damped with alcohol. 



Fig. 63. First Step in Lowering the Top 

Gypsy curtain folded inward 

Especial care must be observed when folding—lowering—the top that the 
covering material is not damaged by improper handling. The accompanying 
figures illustrate the right method to follow. It is quite necessary that this 
method be adhered to, for if the top is folded in the usual manner, as in figure 
67, the top covering material, which is then held fast between the top bows, 
will be cut through in a short time by chafing. 

The first step in lpwering the top is to unbutton the gypsy curtains (the 





164 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


triangular curtains at the rear quarters of the top) and fold them inward, as 
shown in figure 63. Failure to do this will result in the curtains being torn 
when the top is lowered. 

Next, open the top-holder bow-clamps and loosen the front end of the top 
from the windshield. The top is now ready to be lowered. 

When the top bows are in the top-holders, pull the top covering material 
out and back, letting it fall as shown in figure 64, when the bow-clamps 
should be locked. 

This done, fold over the corners of the top covering material in the 
manner illustrated in figure 65. Tightly roll up the top covering material 
and tuck it in between the upper- and lower-most bows, as in figure 66. 



Fig. 64. Top Covering Material Pulled Out 

The dust cover (dust envelope) should now be put on. Hold the top 
covering material in the position shown in figure 66 and slip the lower side of 
the dust cover under the bottom side of the lower bow, and then pull the upper 
side of it into position over the top side of the upper bow and button the 
fasteners. 

It is important that two things be borne in mind in connection with the 
above operations: One, the top covering material must be completely pulled 
out from between the bows—the padded parts remain where they naturally 
fall; and two, the bows must be brought as close together as possible and then 
tightly clamped in this position. 

Do not, under any circumstances, tuck the top covering material 
between the top bows as shown in figure 67. 







MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


165 


Upholstery- —-From time to time the upholstery should be wiped off 
with a clean damp cloth. Frequent washing of the upholstery is also, desirable. 
Use a pure soap and water and a sponge, finishing with a thorough rinsing 
with fresh cold water and wiping dry with a chamois skin; saddle soap, too, 
can be used to advantage. 

Never use gasoline on the upholstering as it has a tendency to crack the 
leather or cause it to peel. If the leather becomes hard and dry, an application 
of neat’s-foot oil or a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and sweet oil is bene¬ 
ficial. An application of this mixture should remain on the leather overnight 
and then rubbed dry to prevent soiling one’s clothing; as an additional pre¬ 
caution, it might be well to wash the leather with soap and water, followed 
by rinsing with clean water to prevent this occuring. 



Fig. 65. Folding In the Corners 

A vacuum cleaner is an excellent means of removing dust from the inside 
of the top and from upholstery. 

Closed Car Upholstery —Closed car interiors are best cleaned by means 
of a vacuum cleaner. If this can not be done, the dust can be removed by 
brushing downward with a whisk-broom on the seat-backs and the sides of 
the body, and toward the front on the cushions and the head-lining. Brush¬ 
ing in this manner will keep the nap of the cloth in its original condition. 

Ordinary spots can be removed by placing a damp cloth over the up¬ 
holstery and running a hot iron over the entire surface. Do not steam a part 
of the surface, but go over the entire piece; and do not hold the hot iron at 
one place until the cloth dries, as this will leave a shiny spot. 

Grease spots can be removed by means of ether, but it is necessary that 
the entire surface be gone over. Ether raises the nap of the cloth, which makes 
it necessary to steam the latter after the spots are removed. 

Floor carpets can be cleaned by rubbing with a sponge or brush wet with 
gasoline. 





166 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


Do not use soap and water in cleaning closed car upholstery, as the 
spots may be spread instead of removed. 

Nickel Plating —Nickel plated surfaces can be protected against tarnish¬ 
ing or corrosion by frequent wiping with an oily cloth. A very high polish, 
however, can not be obtained in this manner; some form of metal polish 
must be used. Do not use brass polish on nickel plating, as it contains destruc¬ 
tive abrasives. 



Fig. 66. Top Covering Material Rolled Up and Tucked 
Between the Upper and Lower Bows 


Head-lamp Reflectors —When the head-lamp reflectors become dirty, do 
not wipe them, but use a stream of cold water to remove the dust and then let 
the reflectors dry. This treatment should be given the reflectors because they 
are silver plated and very highly polished; they are therefore extremely 
susceptible to scratching, even when a very soft material is used. 

If the lamp reflectors become dull after long service, they should be 
polished with a very soft chamois skin and jeweler’s rouge or crocus moistened 
with alcohol; place*a wad of cotton within the chamois skin to form a ball 
about the size of an egg. The polishing should be finished with very fine 
crocus or rouge and chamois skin, but in this case it is applied dry. Polish 
with a circular motion, otherwise the reflector will be streaked. If the work 
is properly done, the results should be entirely satisfactory. 

If the reflectors are in very bad condition and do not respond to polishing, 
have them refinished by a reliable metal plater. 

Body Polish —As a general thing, avoid the use of any of the numerous 
preparations on the market for restoring the finish of the car. This is par¬ 
ticularly true of the so-called body polishes or finish renovators (see chapter 
III, part one, for further remarks on this subject), which should at all times 
be avoided, regardless of what the accessory dealer has to say on the subject. 

There are, however, certain preparations which can with benefit be applied 
to an old and worn top to restore its finish, as well as to make it waterproof. 







MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


167 


Similar preparations for restoring the finish of the upholstering should be 
approached with caution, for although they frequently impart an excellent 
surface to the leather they also harden it to such an extent that cracking 
ultimately results. The best preparation to use for this purpose is a good, 
old-fashioned leather or harness dressing. 



Fig. 67. The Wrong Way 

Folding the top in this manner damages the covering 
material by chafing 









168 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER XX 

THE CAR IN WINTER OR DEAD STORAGE 

Placing the Car in Storage —In taking the car out of service and storing 
it away for the winter or for any protracted period, many things require 
careful attention. Before proceeding further, however, it should be clearly 
remembered that a stable in which animals are kept and in which, therefore, 
ammonia is present, is most unsuitable as a storage place for a mot6r car; a 
damp or wet place, with little circulation of air, such as a cellar, is also to be 
avoided. A clean, dry, cool place, with free circulation of air and quite dark, 
constitutes an ideal storage room. 

Unless the car is in a climate where freezing of water never occurs, the 
cooling system should be drained. Flushing at this time with a lye or washing 
soda solution and then with clean water to remove all traces of the lye or 
washing soda is desirable. When the cooling system is empty and with the 
drain cock still open, start the engine and let it run for a minute or two to 
ensure all water having left the cylinders. With the engine running, inject a 
syringeful of engine oil into the cold air inlet of the carburetor hot air hood, 
so that this oil will be drawn into the cylinders to all the working parts, 
and then immediately stop the engine. Drain the carburetor and vacuum 
tank and securely replace the drain plugs. 

Remove the storage battery from the car and place it in the hands of a 
battery repair shop. (See chapter XV, part three, for further details.) If 
the engine is again run with the storage battery removed, be sure to ground 
or to short-circuit the generator. (See p. 134.) 

Put up the top and attach the side-curtains. Jack up all four wheels and, 
if the tyres are not removed, slightly deflate them. It is best to remove the 
tyres from the rims and store them in a cool, dry, dark place, with the tubes 
slightly deflated. 

Apply a coating of vaseline or similar material to the bright metal parts to 
protect them from corrosion. Put a cloth over the car to protect it from dust. 

Putting the Car in Commission —In placing the car in commission, 
this process is reversed. The tyres should be inflated to the correct pressure, 
the side curtains stored away in the car, the bright metal parts cleaned, and 
the cooling, lubrication, and fuel systems filled; the storage battery, fully 
charged, should be replaced in the car and the battery cables connected to it. 

Remove the spark plugs and, with an oil can or an oil syringe, inject 
one or two tablespoonfuls of clean, fresh engine oil into each cylinder. Replace 
the spark plugs and spark plug cables and crank the engine 10 or 15 seconds, 
either with the starter or the hand crank and with the ignition turned off, thus 
distributing the oil over the pistons and cylinder walls. The engine can then 
be started in the usual manner. 


PART FOUR 


WHAT GOOD ROADS MEAN 
AND 

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS 




170 


CHEVROLET MOTOR CARS 


CHAPTER I 

WHAT GOOD ROADS MEAN TO THE MOTORIST 

Of course, whilst the good motor car will travel over poor roads, and in 
the case of certain portions of some countries, over no roads at all, the cost 
of upkeep to the owner living in such districts is considerably higher than in 
territories noted for their well built and maintained roads. 

After all, the motor car is a machine and no matter how sturdily con¬ 
structed must eventually have its life curtailed and its working efficiency 
impaired by jolting over rocky passes or dragging through heavy sand. Not 
only do the various parts of the car need more frequent adjustment, and in 
some cases replacement, but also tyre mileage is greatly lowered and the 
number of miles to the gallon of fuel considerably reduced. 

Furthermore, so long as the manufacturing of motor cars in quantities is 
restricted by the building of roads in the ^ various countries of the world in 
which it is possible to sell cars, car prices must inevitably remain higher than 
when a greater market permits increased manufacturing. 

But even apart from these points which most directly affect you as a 
motorist, the subject of better roads is of great indirect influence on the cost 
of living. 

Almost every country in the world is now experiencing an era of high 
prices both as regards raw material and manufactured products; and, in the 
case of foodstuffs particularly, the large increase in cost must be borne by 
every family in these countries. 

The business of farming is essentially dependent on the condition of 
country roads, for the bulk of the crops must be hauled to the railroad 
stations and local markets. Around each market or shipping point there is 
a boundary line which encloses the area that can be profitably cultivated for 
delivery at that point. If this area is considered as bounded by a circle, it 
is not difficult to see that its size will depend upon road conditions. The profit 
of the farmer is determined by the difference between production and trans¬ 
portation costs and selling price; production must cease when transportation 
costs wipe out this difference. 

When the main roads of the great producing zones are improved, benefits 
will accrue not only to the producer but also to the consumer. Marketing will 
be distributed throughout the year and produce will not have to be kept at 
high storage rates in warehouses, due to inability to get it to market at certain 
seasons because of lack of transportation facilities. The farmer will thus be 
assured of equitable prices for his crops and will be encouraged to increase his 
production, which, in turn, will serve to bring living costs down to a normal 
level. 

All this is becoming more and more evident to people generally and to 


MANUAL OF CARE AND OPERATION 


171 


public authorities in the leading countries of the world, ranging from national 
governments and their centralized bureaus to county and township and munici¬ 
pal representatives. Enormous sums of money are being raised, to be spent 
during this and the next few years to give people the benefit of the economies 
that will result from the improvements of the world’s highways. 

The average citizen particularly is beginning to realize that the subject 
of better highways has a very definite relation to his cost of living. He is 
becoming aware that the small sums paid by him in taxes for road work are 
eventually returned manifold in decreased cost of farm produce and in lowering 
all transportation charges in which he has a distinct share. This is why he 
is urging appropriations for road improvement on his local and national 
legislative bodies and also the reason why he will continue to demand these 
appropriations until they are made. 

And of all the proponents of better roads the motorist, of course, is the 
most vitally concerned. You will be well repaid for every effort you put forth 
to advance the cause of road building in your territory, whether it be in aiding 
to organize an influential good roads association in your locality or simply by 
voting to pass good roads legislation when the matter is presented to you. 
You are benefiting not only yourself but also every member of your com¬ 
munity by doing everything in your power to increase the transportation 
facilities of your country. 




CHAPTER II 

SPECIFICATIONS 


BORE AND STROKE.. 

PISTON DISPLACEMENT.___ 

HORSEPOWER—S.A.E. or R.A.C. 

BRAKE (actual)..—.. 

WATER CAPACITY .... 

OIL CAPACITY—Engine.... 

FUEL CAPACITY—All models_ 

WHEELBASE.. 

TREAD...- 

ROAD CLEARANCE. 

TURNING RADIUS.- 

LOCATION OF NUMBERS__ 


.3 11-16" x 4" (93.8 mm. x 101) 

.. 170.9 cu. in. (2.8 I.) 

.21.7 

..25, at 2.000 r. p. m. 

.7.5 qts. (6.25 imp. qts.; 7.125 1.) 

.4 qts. (3.3 imp. qts.; 3.78 1.) 

..10 gal. (8.33 imp. gal.; 38 1.) 
..102" (2.59 m.) 

..56" (1.42 m.) 

..9.75" (247. mm.) 

..20' (6.1 m.) 

..Plate on rear side of dash, under 
instrument board 












INDEX 


Accelerator, Use of.. 

Air Regulator 

See Carburetor 

Alignment, Front Wheel 

See Front Axle 

Ammeter..131, 132, 134, 139 

% 

Battery, Storage 

Anti-freeze compounds....144 

Carbon and tungsten lamps.....138 

Charging...126, 136-141 

Charging-rate_138, 139, 141, 143-148 

Charging with Delco-Light.__139 

Cleanliness. .8, 144, 145, 148, 149 

Corrosion ....8, 144, 145, 148, 149 

Danger of fire.....141 

Defective terminals__8, 148, 149 

Discharges...146, 147 

Direct and alternating current....136 

Electrolyte...8, 33, 34, 135, 141-147 

Freezing..142, 144, 147 

Gassing. . . 141 

Generator charging-rate 
See Charging-rate 

Hydrometer readings......141-143 

Improper functioning. Causes of.. 147-149 

In hot climates...".33, 141 

In winter...141, 142, 147 

Mixing electrolyte... 143 

New car. r .. 8 

Not charging.......131-133, 147, 148 

Out of service...142, 168 

Overhauling.. 38 

Overheating.. 141, 145-148 

Partly discharged...46, 147, 148 

Positive and negative 

131, 132, 136, 138, 140 

Positive and negative polarity test_136 

Rectifiers. 136 

Resistance for charging.136-139 

Routine care and inspection 

33, 34, 142-145 

Running engine with battery 

removed......134 

Series and parallel connections.139 

Specific gravity.8, 34, 141-144, 147 

Specific gravity in hot clinfates—.._33, 141 
Starting engine with battery removed 134 

Sulphuric acid.....135, 143 

Terminal markings.....140 

To take specific gravity reading-.142, 143 

Under- and overcharging__145-149 

Vent plugs....140, 148 

Water....33, 34, 141, 143-145, 148, 149 

Weak...45, 46, 147, 148 

Brakes 

Adjusting....31, 36, 85-89 

Care of...34-36, 85 

Cleaning the....-.89, 90 

Dragging.—.....50, 51, 53, 85, 87, 89 

Equalizing...36, 85-90 

First 250 miles (500 km.) of use_85 

Linings...35,85, 87, 89,90 

Lubrication.. 34, 89 

Not holding.... 89, 90 

Relining. ....89 

Use.. .. 15-21,85,90 

Breaker Points 

See Ignition Distributor 

Carbon 

Accumulations 

12,49, 50, 52,64, 106-110, 115 


PAGE 

Knocks.49, 50, 64, 11 5 

Removal of.. *. .64 

Carbon monoxide dangerous.32 

Carburetor 

Adjusting. . :.115, 123, 124 

Air regulator 

See Choke, below 

Air leaks.... .45, 47, 48, 121 

Back-firing...12, 45-48, 50, 52, 53 

Causes overheating..... . 49, 11 5 

Choke.. .- ...9-12, 31, 123 

Improperly adjusted 

11, 12, 25, 45, 48-50, 52, 53, 1 13, 123 

Running position.. . 12 

Starting position. .. 9, 11,12 

Cylinders flooded with fuel 
See Engine 
Dirt in fuel 

See Fuel System 

Dirt on needle valve. . 45, 49, 50, 123 

Draining . 36 

Float needle valve jammed or bent 

45, 48-50, 121, 123 

Flooded..45, 50, 121, 123 

Frozen.....45, 120, 121 

Fuel knock. .. .52, 124 

Improperly adjusted 

47-50, 52-54, 115, 124 

In high altitudes...... .. 48, 49, 52, 115 

Jammed float.45,49, 50, 121, 123 

Lack of fuel.45, 48, 50. 53, 117-124 

Leaky float.45, 49, 50, 123 

Lean mixture 

11, 12,45,47,48, 50, 52, 53,115,119,121, 
124 

No fuel in... .: . . .45, 50 

Rich mixture 

11, 12,45,47-50, 52-54, 115,118,121,124 

Rough needle valve..123 

Throttle adjustment.124 

Water in fuel 
See Fuel System 

Care of the Car 

Changing the oil 
See Oil 

Chassis lubrication 
See Grease 

r n storage......168 

Placing the car in commission—.168 

When new . ..7, 8, 21, 22 

Washing and polishing 
See Coachwork 

Circuit-Breaker 

See Reverse Current Cut-Out 


Clutch 

Adjustment. . ..72, 73 

Broken spring...73 

Care of...33, 34 

Cleaning.72 

Disassembling....71,72 

Fitting new leather.71,72 

Fullers’ earth .. .72 

Glazed leather.70 

Harsh acting .. 70 

Installing . ...71, 72 

Leather expanders .. 69, 70, 72 

Lubrication ... 33, 73 

Manipulation ... 13-20 

Neat’s-foot oil— ... 70 

Oil or grease on leather— . ..53, 70, 72 

Overhauling- . 38 

Pedal adjustment.. .. 72, 73 

Removal of.....71, 72 


PAGE 
12, 18 































































































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PAGE 


Riding the...15, 73, 74 

Slipping, A...53, 70 

Slipping the...1 5 

Test for slipping. 70 

Worn leather.53, 71, 72 

Coach work 

Care of nickel plating. 166 

Care of the top (hood).162-164 

Care of the upholstery......165, 166 

In winter storage, out of service....168 

Polishes and renovators......27, 166, 167 

Soaps._.27, 162 

Washing....33, 162 

Contact Points 

See Ignition Distributor 

Cooling System 

Alcohol... 100-102 

Calcium chloride...„....101, 102 

Care of.....31, 33, 37 

Dirty water.....27, 33,99, 102 

Draining....37, 99, 102, 104 

Fan 

F* SLT\ 

Flushing....37, 99, 102, 104 

Frozen. 49, 103 

Glycerine..101, 102 

Hose connections.-... 102, 103 

Hydrometer, Testing by... 102 

Lack of water...49, 51-53 

Non-freezing solutions...-.100-102 

Radiator..7,31,49,99, 101-104 

Radiator cover.....103, 107, 109, 112 

Removal of scale and deposit..37, 99, 102 

Water pump.....33, 49, 51, 103 

Water pump gland__33, 103, 104 

Water pump lubrication..33, 104 

Water pump packing...103, 104 

Water capacity....33, 99 

Water specifications.26,99, 102 

Crankcase Dilution 
See Oil 

Danger of Carbon Monoxide.3 

Danger of Fire.....34, 121, 141 


Dilution of Oil 

See Crankcase dilution. Oil 

Distributor 

See Ignition Distributor 


Driving 

A new car.......21,22 

Breaking with the engine.,...18 

Coasting... 18, 19 

Emergency stop. 18 

Gearshifting..15-20, 78 

Manipulation of the clutch 
See Clutch 

Mud, sand, and snow.......20 

On hills... 18-20 

Running too long on high gear.20, 51 

Skidding.. 20, 21 

Spark position 
See Spark 

Speed of a new car. 22 

Speeds at which to shift gears.....1 5 

Starting on a hill.. 19, 20 

Starting the car.13 

Steering.20 

Stopping on a hill... 19 

Stopping the car...15, 18-21 

With battery removed from car.. .134 


Electric Horn 

See Warning Signal 

Engine 

Adjusting the bearings .....64-66 


Back-firing in carburetor 
See Carburetor 
Back-firing in muffler 
See Muffler 

Bearing liners or shims...65 

Braking with the 
See Driving 

Broken or worn piston rings 

46, 51, 58, 59 

Carbon 

See Carbon 

Cold....9-11,45 

Crankcase dilution 
See Oil 

Cycle of operations....41,42 

Cylinder head.....44, 58-62 

Cyl’nder head gasket...44, 58-62 

Cylinders flooded with fuel..45, 49, 50 

Difficult starting.9, 11,45, 46, 155, 156 

Draining the oil 
See Oil 

Fails to start.....9, 11,45, 46, 155, 156 

Fan 

See Fan 

Firing order... 1 53 

Four-stroke cycle.___41,42 

Frozen 

See Cooling System 

Hand-cranking...—10, 11 

Improper functioning, Causes of..45-54 

Installing bearings-- 64-66 

Installing cylinder head...__61,62 

Installing piston rings.—..63, 64 

Installing timing gears_;--54, 55 

Knocks.12,20, 48-53,64,66, 115, 124 

Loose bearings____51, 64-66 

Loose fly-wheel (bolts)......51, 66 

Loose piston—.51, 58, 59 

Lubrication 
See Oil 

Misfires.45-50, 52-54, 1 15, 124, 155-157 

Oil capacity 
See Oil 

Overhauling. 38 

Overheating--..12,49-54,99, 103, 104 

Oversize piston---51, 58, 59 

Poor compression.....46-48, 52, 58, 59 

Poor power 

12, 45-54, 56, 58, 59, 62, 85, 115, 155-157 

Removing cylinder head. 59 

Removing oil pan 
See Oil Pan 

Removing piston....-.63 

Removing piston pin... 63 

Removing piston rings...63, 64 

Routine care.......31, 33-38, 58 

Scored or worn cylinders...63 

Shims or liners, Bearing.65 

Starting by hand....10, 11 

Starting the.—...9-13, 45, 46, 155, 156 

Starting the, by towing or coasting 

155, 156 

Starting when cold--10, 45 

Stops... .......12,45, 50, 51 

Testing the compression.37. 58, 59 

Timing 

See Ignition; Valves 

Timing gears.—.-—42, 54, 55 

Timing gear marks....-.54, 55 

Timing marks.-.54, 55, 57 

Valves 

See Valves 

Will not start..9, 11,45, 46, 155, 156 

Will not stop........52 


Fan 


Belt.37, 49, 102 

Out of order; broken.49 































































































PAGE 


PAGE 


Frame 

Care of.......98 

Loose rivets.......98 

Front Axle 

Lubrication.33, 37,91-94 

Overhauling.38 

Removing front wheels 
See Wheels 

Steering gear connecting rod 

37, 38,91-93 


Stiff steering.-.....92, 93 

Wheel alignment.37,91,92 

Wheel bearings 
See Wheels 


Ignition Distributor 
Breaker points 

36,46, 47, 151, 152, 154, 156, 157 

Breaker point gap.36, 46, 151, 152, 156 

Care of...34, 36, 38, 151 

Cracked distributor head.47 

Danger of fire...34 

Dirty.34,46,47, 151, 156, 157 

Dirty points.46, 47, 151, 156, 157 

Firing order..-1 53 

Lubrication....34, 36 

Out of order...46-48, 52, 53, 156, 157 

Spring weak.47 

Overhauling.38 

Timing—.1 51, 152 


Fuel System 

Alcohol mixtures.26 

Benzol mixtures.-.26 

Correct fuel..25, 26 

Danger of fire...121 

Dirt in fuel 

36, 45, 47, 48, 50, 53, 120, 121, 123, 124 

Draining fuel tank..36 

Filling fuel tank. .36, 121 

Frozen carburetor 
See Carburetor 

Frozen fuel tank...120, 121 

Fuel does not flow 


45,47, 48, 50, 53, 117-124 

Fuel in oil 

See Crankcase dilution, Oil 
Fuel knock 

See Carburetor 

Fuel tank cap vent clogged.117 

Improper fuel feed 

45, 47, 48. 50, 53, 117-124 

Incorrect fuel.25, 26, 48, 51, 52, 124 

Specific gravity of fuel..26 

Testing fuel..25, 26 

Vacuum tank 

See Vacuum tank 
Water in fuel 

45,47, 48, 50, 53, 120, 121, 124 

Gaps 

See Ignition Distributor; Spark Plugs 

General Specifications...171 

Generator 

Brushes..36, 126-128, 131, 132 

Care of...34, 36, 126 

Cleaning the commutator...36, 126 

Fitting the third-brush...127, 128 

Improper functioning....132, 133 

Lubrication......34, 126, 129, 134 

Out of order.... 126-128, 131, 132, 147, 148 

Overhauling.....3 8 

Regulation of charging-rate.....126-128 

Third-brush adjustment....127, 128 

Gearshifting 
See Driving 

Grease, Cup 


Lamps 

Candle-power of lamp bulbs ... 134 

Do not burn . 133, 134 

Fuses . 133, 134 

Head-lamp reflectors .. 134, 166 

License Data. . 171 


Lubrication 

See under respective headings 


Muffler 

Back-firing 

See Explosions, below 

Choked....50, 53 

Explosions in....48-50, 52-54 

Explosions in, whilst coasting...54 

Nickel Plating 

See Coachwork 


Non-Freezing Compounds 

See Battery; Cooling System 


Oil 

Capacity: Engine.—.;.35, 110 

Changing the: 

Engine.__.21,22, 34-36, 106-112 

Rear axle........21, 22, 37, 81,83 

Transmission__.....21,22, 37, 77 

Circulation, Engine.....105, 106 

Crankcase dilution.12, 25, 106-112 

Dirty.21,48,49, 51, 106-112 

Frequency of changing: 

Engine.21,22, 34-36, 110 

Rear axle..21, 22, 37 

Transmission.21, 22, 37 

Fuel in oil 

See Crankcase dilution, above 

Incorrect.21-23, 48, 49, 51, 107, 108 

Lack of, in engine.49, 51, 52 

Level: 


Engine—.7. 31, 105, 108, 110, 111 

Rear axle. ...7, 83 

Transmission.....7, 77 

Lubrication system. Operation of, 105,106 
New car...7, 21, 22 


Specifications: 

Engine. 23-25 

Rear axle._.23-25 

Transmission.—.23-25 

Which to use...23 


On new car._...8 

Specifications.2 5 


Hood 

See Top, Coachwork 

Ignition 

Incorrect.45-50, 52, 53, 153-1 57 

Incorrect timing..-46, 49, 52, 53 

Out of order.45-50, 52, 53, 153-157 

Switch......9,45, 50, 153-157 

Timing.42, 46, 49, 52, 53. 151-1 53 


Oil Pump 

Gland . ...112 

Low oil pressure ....13, 49, 51, 52, 111, 112 

No oil pressure ... 49, 51, 52, 111, 112 

Oil pressure. .. 13, 31,49, 51, 52, 111 

Oil pressure gauge... . 13,31, 51, 111 

Screen . 105, 106, 111 

Worn. ... Ill, 112 

Overhauling the Car . ...38 

Points 

See Ignition Distributor; Spark Plugs 

















































































PAGE 


PAGE 


Polish 

See Coachwork 

Preparing the Car for Service. . 168 

Storage .. 168 


Pressure, Oil 
See Oil Pump 

Propeller Shaft Bearings 


Lubrication of.....79 

Rear Axle 

Adjusting... 84 

Care of...21,22, 35, 37 

Changing the oil.....22, 37, 81, 83 

Differential—...13, 81 

Filling with oil.35, 83 

Lubrication..35, 37, 81,83 

New car..7, 21, 22 

Overhauling..... 38 

Removing a wheel...83 

Removing from car—.83 


Starter Motor 

Brushes . 

Care of. .. 

Cleaning the commutator _ 

Drive._ . 

Improper functioning ... 

Lubrication. .. 

Out of order ... 

Overhauling . 

Pinion jams.. 


. 36, 133 

..34, 36. 128 

. . 36. 126 

. 129 

.. .133 

_ 34, 126 

46,133, 148 

....38 

.133,148 


Starting and Lighting System 


Overhauling...38, 

See Generator 

Steering Gear 

Adjustment—.9 5 

Care of...3 5, 95 

Connecting rod.....37, 92, 93 

Lubrication..35 

Overhauling...3 8 

Stiff steering.—...92, 93 


Third Brush 

See Generator 


Renovators, Coachwork 

See Coachwork 


Throttle 

See Carburetor 


Reverse Current Cut-Out.....130-134 


Rims 

Care of...161 

Creaking.161 


Soaps 

See Coachwork 


Spark 

Advanced too far..12, 20, 46, 50 

No spark..—.45, 46, 50 

Point at which it occurs..;_42, 151, 152 

Retarded-.9, 12, 20, 46, 49, 52, 53 

Running with retarded.12, 20, 49, 52 

Timing 

See Ignition 

Weak...45-48, 50, 52, 53, 155-157 

Spark Hand Lever 

Lubrication......34 

Running position—.9, 10 

Starting position.9 

Use of...12 

On hills and heavy going.20 

Spark Plugs 

Adjusting the gaps...36, 123, 155 

Cables improperly connected or worn 

36, 46, 50 

Care of... ...36, 154, 155 

Dirty or broken.45-47, 52, 53, 154-157 

Gaps.36, 154-157 

Incorrect gaps—.46, 47, 155-1 57 

Testing....155-157 

Speedometer 

Care of.. 38 

Head.. 38 

Lubrication..38 


Speeds 

First or low..13, 15, 18-20, 22 

High or third. ..14, 15, 18-20, 22 

Neutral..9, 13, 18-20,22 

Reverse..15 

Second or intermediate.. . 14, 15, 18-20, 22 

Springs 

Care of._...35,97,98 

Cleaning.....35, 97 

Clips......35,97, 98 

Lubrication...33, 35, 97, 98 


Throttle Hand Lever 

Closed too far.—.50 

Lubrication..34 

Running position—.12 

Starting position.. .. 9, 10 

Use of.__.12, 14, 15, 18-20 

Tires 

See Tyres 

Top 

See Coachwork 


Torque Tube.79 

Transmission 

Care of... ... 22 , 34, 35, 37, 77 

Changing the oil.37, 77 

Filling with oil...7, 35, 77 

Gearshift lever slips out of position.77 

Gearshift locks—. 77 

Lubrication...22, 34, 35, 37, 77 

New car...21, 22 

Oil 

See Oil 

Overhauling......38 

Removing from car.77, 78 

Tyres 

Care in driving...31, 33, 158-160 

Care of inner tubes...160 

Correct inflation..31, 33, 159 

Cuts in treads.....31, 35, 158 

In hot weather.. 159 

In storage.. 160, 168 

Loss of power caused by..53 

Misaligned front wheels.91, 158 

Non-skid.21 

Non-skid chains.—.21, 158 

On new car—.7 

Pressure...—31, 33, 159 

Pressure gauge.....31, 33, 159 

Results of incorrect brake adjustment 158 

Results of underinflation.158, 159 

Rot..158 

Routine care.—.31, 33 

Sand boils.-.158 

Slow leaks—.159 

Universal Joint 

Care of....79, 80 

Lubrication....79, 80 

Overhauling. ....38 

































































































PAGE 


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Vacuum Tank 

Adjusting....... 117 

Air leaks...._______119, 120 

Choked pipes.......120 

Draining.......36, 117, 120 

Fails to feed fuel.....117-120 

Filling the...121 

Flapped valve dirty....118, 119 

Frozen.120, 121 

Fuel filter.....117, 120 

Fuel tank cap vent clogged......117 

Leaky float....118 

Removal of top of..........118 

Vent tube overflows.....117 


Valves 

Bent stems.46-48, 52-54, 63 


Broken....46-48, 52 

Broken or weak springs....46-48, 52, 54, 62 

Clearance...37, 46-48, 51-57, 61 

Exhaust not closing properly..54 


Grinding...59-61 

Incorrect timing..42, 46-48, 52, 54 

Inlet remains open.....53 

Lubrication.-.....33, 34, 58 

Need grinding..46-48, 52, 58-61 

Springs.....46-48, 52, 54, 59, 62 

Timing....42, 54, 55 

To remove a. 59 

Worn valve stem guides.45, 47, 48 

Wheels 

Adjusting bearings..93, 94 

Care of bearings..7, 35, 37, 93, 94 

Creaking 

Front, Alignment of 

See Front Axle—Wheel alignment 

Lubrication...7, 33, 37, 93, 94 

Removing front.. 94 

Removing rear.. 83 

Wire, Care of.... 37 

Wire, Lubrication of...... 37 


9 



Printed in the United States of America. 















































